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Nils Anderssen

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  1. Thanks a lot Peter and Bruce! Emiliano: There is this wikipedia article that explains the whole process and the swords role during the war. I tried to translate it with google translate and it worked kind of and I guess you will be able to understand most of it http://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snartemosverdet Yea a version with a pattern welded blade is something I would very much like to do. Just hope to come across someone who is willing to pay for it all. Here is by the way an xray image of the blade where you can see the pattern in the blade. It has not been published before to my knowledge:
  2. Wow, thanks for the kind words everyone! I have admired a lot of you guys work for years, so it means a lot Mark Green: As far as I know this is not possible with the replicator. For once it cannot print wax (but you can always create wax models from plastic models), but the biggest problem is the level of detail. I guess i should have taken a picture with something to show the scale, but I forgot Jesper: Yes the blade has a distal taper. It is slightly below 5 mm at the base and right above 2. It is also concave. The blade is still a bit hefty since there is no fuller, but then again it is fairly thin. harry_r: I used 3d Studio Max and modeled it with polygons, not the way that traditional CAD works (as far as I understand). My professional background is from the gaming industry so it kind of matches up with how I am used to work there. I guess I could have used more high polygon modeling tools like zbrush or mudbox, and will try to look into that later on. Stormcrow: Do you have a link to the page and the nick of the user? I would very much like to see that Jim Walker: There is some theories on this, and I have not researched it thoroughly, but as far as I understand the ring itself is some kind of symbolical gift from a king to his most trusted men. It is a tradition you can see on several swords for a short amount of time in Europe. But, as far as I understand, no one knows for certain. Again, thanks a lot for the feedback! Yesterday, right before I had to deliver the sword I had the opportunity to photograph it beside the original. Needless to say, it was a very cool experience. The original is the one the furthest back. The one in the middle is a replica made for Vidkun Quisling (minister president for the nazies in Norway) during the second world war after the nazies tried to send the original to germany. The museum put it in a vault so that they could not find it and one of the museum workers ended up in a concentration camp for it. Very interesting to see my version together with these two pieces of Norwegian history.
  3. A couple of months ago I was approached by the National Museum here in Norway and they asked me if I could make a sword for an upcoming exhibition. After talking with them I managed to persuade them that the sword is going to be exhibited in such way that people can pick it up and swing it somewhat around (much like the Albion sword in the Cluny exhibition a couple of years back). This of course got me exited. Form AND function The sword they wanted was a fairly famous 6th century sword from Snartemo here in Norway and with a very detailed hilt. You might know it: For more pictures of the original: http://www.vikverir.no/ressurser/hist_mus_oslo_no_part_1/?dir=&page=3 My goal of this was to make something that looked as close to the original as possible, but not necessary created the same way. It should also feel like a contemporary sword, but since the blade is still in he scabbard I had to do some guesses. Due to limitations in time and budget I could only have a mono steel blade, not pattern welded as was on the original. As I am not very skilled in modeling wax and taking the complexity of the piece into account I decided to 3d model all of the hilt and then getting it printed. I am much more proficient with a 3d program . I based the model om photographs, and have not used any 3d scanned data at all. So, everything is "hand made" in the computer with every "point" placed by hand. A lot of work and in only a few places I could speed up the process and make shortcuts compared to doing it by hand. I also put a lot of work into making it look hand made, and not completely symmetrical and "digital". Here is the 3d model: So, the company that did the printing and casting for me was http://i.materialise.com/. They took the 3d model and printed it in wax that then was used for casting. The printing happens with a machine laying very thin layers of wax on top of each other that then forms the model. After that they cast it in the traditional way with lost wax. Here are the pieces back from the foundry: So after a lot of cleaning up and polishing i got it gilded. The original crossguard and pommel was made out of gilded silver er and the grip was made out of a thin gold plate. On mine everything is made out of bronze. Since the casting introduces small flaws here and there this helps with making the piece look more hand carved. I made the hilt hollow with very thin walls as was also the case with the original. I filled them with pieces of wood in order to make the constriction more stable and easier to assemble. I grinded the blade out of a large blade blank I had laying around in the workshop and the blade is slightly less than 5 mm at the base and slightly above 2 mm before the tip. Concave tapering. Then a lot of polishing by hand and assembling the piece. Here is the result: The front side: The back side: The top: It is by far the most complex project I have made and all in all I am very happy with how it turned out. I am very impressed with how much details that got through the printing and casting. If you look at the pommel the large triangle in the middle has a pattern running around it. The triangles in that pattern is 0.6 mm at the widest and they are completely sharp. The only change I would have done to it, if I could, was to make it with a pattern welded blade. That would have improved the over all look balancing out the detailed hilt. So, that might be a project for later on After all I have the pattern for the hilt now... Hope you like it
  4. Thanks Wes and Peter Peter, I had planed to talk to you about your experiences with the sword you made for Albion. That hilt is a mountain to climb and it would have been interesting to hear someone elses experience with it. Well, if our roads cross sometime in the future, I would like to do that.
  5. It is just nice to give something back to all of you guys The work people from this forum (and other similar ones) have always been very inspiring for me, and since I cannot share that much fine craftsmanship, wel... then I share this
  6. Thanks a lot for the kind words The sword was found in a womans grave in Suontaka, Finland together with another sword.. Here are some pictures of the original: And more can be found here: http://www.vikverir.no/ressurser/usages_mythes_symboles/?dir=&page=14 The company I used was http://www.shapeways.com/ and they are fairly cheap. The prints I did was in some kind of plastic so the casting company had to make a silicon mold of that and then cast the wax. Yesterday they announced that you can now print in meltable wax, so that is exiting Alan Longmire - I am happy that it turned out as something that looks hand made. I must say that the sword looks enormous on that picture... the grip is only 8.5 cm Your ax was awesome, it almost gave me the thought of starting with smoking J. Arthur Loose - I remember that you talked about that at Owens, and that would be so cool if that still was around. About the sterility, I think that a good way of using 3d print is to use it as a base for further work by hand. So it maybe takes you 90% of the way, but the rest you have to do yourself. That at least does the trick for me together with not using all kinds of digital guidelines. I am using techniques that will not give exact results and create "errors" along the way, that helps also.... Another very interesting aspect is that some museums does 3d scanning of their artifacts... some of them even puts them on the internet. Now you can truly make a copy, or make one that you can have beside you when you do the real one in wax. Loads of interesting possibilities. I have also been playing with the idea of making "sketch" models of objects I document in the museums by talking loads of photographs of them and using as a basis for a 3d model. This can be done with programs like this one: http://www.123dapp.com/catch This is not super acurat at the moment and loads of details is lost. You can even find distortion in the models, but it might be a good basis to get something you can hold, look at and analyze. You do not need to be very technical to do this, and that is cool Again, thanks a lot and nice to know that you find it interesting
  7. Hi This is a project I finished late last year and brought it with me to Owens forge in last month. After showing it around I thought of maybe do a thread on how I made it. The sword is a blunt re-enactment sword heavily inspired by a sword from Suontaka, Finland, but with some of my own touches and a hollow hilt. A couple of years ago a friend of mine approached me asking if I could make a sword from this finding, and my initial reply was a blunt, but polite "no". Everyone who has seen the original know the amount of detail on the hilt and my wax carving skills are not up to that task, by far. But she continued to ask me and after a while I got hooked on the idea. After all, it is a huge challenge and it would be fun to solve it. So, after doing some re-search I found out that you could get 3d models printed for a relatively small amount of money and with a fairly high level of detail. Since I work as a gamedeveloper and has experience with 3d modeling that was a metod I could work with. So, I agreed to do the project in 3d, print it and then cast it in bronze. Here is the result: Although it is fairly heavy (1.195g) it can easily be maneuvered around because of the pivot points. It feels big in the hand and like it want to do serious stuff. The blade is made by Szymon Chlebowski, but with some modifications to the fuller and silhouette by me. I retrospect I wish I would have made the blade my self since I would have had a greater control of the outcome and how the components come together visually. I might do another version later on... As I mentioned above, the hilt is hollow so it allowed me to make it fairly big (as the original) without adding any significant weight. So, this is how I made the hilt: I started out building the 3d model for the hilt with a flat plane where I made the pattern itself: Then I filled in the gaps and started to extrude the pattern. I do that while it is flat since this is easier to control the thickness etc. in the program. After that I start to form the overall curve of the piece. Here is a wireframe version of the model for those of you who care about that: Here are the finished pieces before printing. In order to be able to make the finished hilt hollow I only made half of the parts, but completely symmetrical. By doing this the casting company could later cast these parts in wax, glue them together with the holes for the tang and fill them with paster. Then lost wax the whole thing. One of the things you might think is that making the model in 3D might be faster than doing it by hand, but that might not be the case. I used many, many hours on this model, partly because I have little experience with the amount of detail I need to put into the model for it to work when I print it later on. Also, the aspect of looking at something on a screen is completely different to holding the same thing in your hands. So, during the process I made a couple of test prints in order to get a good sense of what I was doing and that is kind of the big advantage by using this method. You can care about proportions and size later on and even experiment with it. When you carve it in wax you need to figure this out at the start. On the other hand when working with physical things it is easier to grasp how it will look in the end. Here is one of the test prints I did during the process: And here are they on the blade: One of the drawbacks of printing in 3d (at least for the cheaper alternatives) is that the surface is going to give very visible clues about the process. In the printing process I chose the model is formed by layering very thin layers of plastic on top of each other. Since the resolution here is limited "steps" is formed in the model like the ones you can see here: My goal was to make something that felt and looked handmade. It was not supposed to be sloppy, but at least not have any signs of printing. So after I got the finished models I scraped the surface with a carving tool to remove all the marks. So, in many ways the 3d model piece works as a blank that I work with until it gets the right amount of detail. To the left in the picture you can barely see the "steps". I did not deliberately make any highly visible tool marks, but I chose not to remove the ones I ended up making. You can see similar marks on originals so I think it works fine. Here are the models back from the casting company. After this I oxidized the pieces and mounted them. I learned a lot by making this hilt. As I said earlier on it did take a lot of time making it, and I maybe used as much time as a skilled wax worker would do. Also, making something that looks alive is harder on a PC. When you make something digital it tend to almost stress the eye... it is not easy to look at and it does not look natural. That is something I worked a lot to avoid. When doing things by hand in a physical world this is something that is achieved naturally since you are making small "errors" here and there. I kind of had to simulate this in the 3d program. Cleaning up the models by hand and the oxidation in the end also helped to make it feel more hand made. I like mixing different working processes and skills and with this project I got to use a lot of them and in the future I would like to explore different combinations of digital and classical working methods some more.
  8. It hast just been to long since last update... but here it is You can as usual find the page here: http://www.vikverir.no/ressurser.html Highlights are: * Extremely high resolution pictures of 9 swords. Some of them as large as 30 000 x 5 000 pixels and almost 60 mb. They are composited together by multiple shots and have a huge amount of detail. * Pictures from the now closed Illerup Ådal exhibition in Moesgård, Denmark. * A couple of new and interesting articles, books and links * Almost 500 new pictures added. Hope you like it
  9. There are actually several examples of bronze/brass hilts from the viking age that is clearly casted. One example can be seen below... and it also looks like a really bad cast http://www.vikverir.no/ressurser/trondheim_viking_no/photos/IMG_2847.JPG If you want it hollow, you can either make a wax model around a core of the same material as the rest of your mold and then lost wax it (with a connection between the core and the mold). I have seen this on a couple of later pommels (13-1400)... where they have left the core inside the pommel You could also make a mold to cast a wax model and then pour wax from the mold when some of it has solidified. I guess it is hard to control the exact thickness and weight of it, but it can be done. Do you have any examples of swords made by sheet in that way? On the top of my head I only know of one (Ian Peirce p. 30).
  10. Hi! Thanks for the kind words! It is a lot of work putting it together so it is so it is nice to know that they can be used to something useful I am not an experienced craftsman, so it is god to contribute in another way. I have just updated the gallery with 1300 pictures from different museums in Paris. Among those is the sword exhibition at Cluny (some 800 pictures). As usual they can be found here. Hope you like them All the best, Nils
  11. That was a really nice knife I have visited this museum a couple of times and have always been fascinated by the shapes of those ships.... all those nice functional curves. So it is so cool to see those shapes used in a completely different setting, but still work. Amazing craftsmanship
  12. Hi! Yes it is a flint striker and it is about 8 cm long. The other ones on the site have approximately the same size. In this picture, at the bottom left on some glass there is one. That is dated to about 800 and is from a grave with a man and woman. The upper one in this picture is from the 9th century. The second one is "Iron Age/Middel Age and the third one is from the 10 century. The one on the table is dated "The Viking Age". This one is from the 10th century found in a male grave. They are all found in southern Norway. It is cool to see that the design has not changed for some 500 years... why change something that works Hope this helps. Nils
  13. Hi, That is a really nice seax. Made me giggle like a school girl Can't wait to see it finished. Our culture is almost troll free... Troll Hunger trailer A really cool Norwegian movie which looks like it is in UK cinemas now...
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