Jump to content

Rob N.

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


0 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Lakewood, OH
  • Interests
    Obviously bladesmithing :) Novels by Pynchon, Eco and Stephenson. Sports, though being a Cleveland fan is making it harder and harder. Most importantly, my beautiful two little girls and my beautiful wife.
  1. One of the best WIPs I've ever seen. Great job and a great looking knife.
  2. I have been trying to get a hold of Larry Zoeller to purchase a couple of his stainless steel burner flares for 3/4 inch pipe, but haven't heard back from him. So, in the meantime, I thought I'd see if I could make a couple burner flares myself. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  3. Very, very cool, Jesus. I'm pretty much done with my big HT forge (and due to advice given, a little one for smaller blades), yet I have another hot water tank that needs to be made into something. Now, I know it's destiny
  4. Well, Geoff, I'm 7'3" tall JK, but yes I have thought about that, however I feel I have that figured out. I do share your concern in regards to efficiency, though. Hence, the two inches of kaowool, cast-o-lite, plistix configuration. Or do you think, given the length of the forge, that it still will be fairly inefficient?
  5. Ok, so I'm making a heat treat forge, based on Jesus Hernandez's hot water tank HT forge. I had access to an old 50 gallon gas water tank, so I started to rip that bad boy apart to get to the tank. The tank is a lot bigger than I thought. After cutting the long 4 inch pipe out of the belly of the beast, I have an approximately 40 inch by 17.75 inch steel tube. I am planning on reusing the ends of the tank as I know they'll fit I was also planning on lining the tank with two inches of Kaowool and a coating of either Plistix alone or a castable (such as cast-o-lite) with the plistix on top. I plan on having my forge vertical as opposed to horizontal like Jesus' forge. Why? Because when I get better at this smithing gig, I do want to make bigger blades, and from what I've read, taking a 30+ inch blade at 1500 degrees out of a horizontal forge to the quench is tricky indeed. The steel bending, etc...Or is that overblown? Anyhow, my question to the experts here is where would be a good place to set my burner inlets? Can I get a way with just one? Or, given the size of the forge, should I have at least two burners? In my novice estimation, I'm figuring I need at least two, so the question again is where to put them? Thanks in advance.
  6. Ok, I'm going off topic on my own thread , but I have a 15 inch long piece of 1020 steel. It's approximately 5" x 6". I did a little forging just to see how it would handle the steel, and was frankly disappointed in the number of dings it got. They weren't all from missed hammer blows, either! So, my question is, should I get a piece of 4140, which I have been told makes a nice anvil face or should I go the more inexpensive route and pick up a piece of 1045? Is the cheaper price of 1045 worth foregoing the better 4140? I would have either of these two pieces (I'm thinking 1/2 inch thick) welded to the existing 1020. Again, thanks in advance.
  7. Thanks for the tips. Wayne, I'm using a 7 gallon air tank. Dimensions are roughly 10 inches in diameter by 16 inches in length. I should be good with just 1" Kaowool, as opposed to the 2" I had planned? Because I was concerned about the size of the chamber to be honest, but if it's your opinion that 1" of Kaowool and the Kast-O-Lite plus plistix would make for a tough inner chamber capable of welding heat, I'd go that route. Thanks in advance.
  8. Ok, so I'm building a gas forge. It's going very well. I am using Larry Zoeller's side arm burners as my heat source (it's a two burner furnace). I am going to line the inside with (2) one inch thick layers of Kaowool. I've got my fire brick for the bottom of the forge (rated 3,000 degrees), so I should be able to do some forge welding with little worry of ruining the bottom of the forge. My solicitation for opinions is concerning the topic title. I will be coating the Kaowool with one of these products for increased heat performance. Is there any real difference between any of those products? Is one really better than the others? Should I use one and then use another on top of that one? You get the idea. I want the best product available, hence the request. Thanks in advance.
  9. Thanks, Christopher. As a fan of your work, that means a lot to me. Kind of like Mean Joe Greene giving that kid a bottle of Coca-Cola
  10. Excellent Shawn, thanks for the info. I thought A36 might not be the way to go, but it was cheaper and I'm all about cheap right now. However, I want to move UP from the rail anvil, so maybe the 4140 is the way to go. I have a crap load of rail anchors all ready to be made into knives/swords. Thanks to all who have contributed their advice. This is truly a cool community. BTW, there is a Fisher #135 pound anvil for $125.00 in Pittsburgh (about 2 hours away) available on craigslist. It has a damaged horn, but nothing (I think) a little grinding can't rectify. If I don't get the 4140 6x6 piece, that may be the way I go. Again, thanks to all of you.
  11. Yeah, looking like you belong there as well as having cash on hand is always a good idea and one that I am still weighing. Alan it's a 12 pack if you want the garbage men to take something bigger than normal (and possibly you didn't have a city permit to do away with ) to take off your hands for you. That QUAD state event looks fantastic, too. I'm out of town that weekend, though. There's an anvil in Pittsburgh (about two hours away) that someone on another forum showed me. It's a 135# Fisher and they're only asking $125 for it. Here's a link: http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/2544511511.html What do you think? Is this something you could take a grinder to and bring up to snuff?
  12. I've just about given up (but not completely )trying to find that anvil "steal". You know. The anvil that you get for pennies on the dollar because someone didn't know or care what they had. Presently, I'm using an 18 inch piece of rail on it's end as an anvil. It works pretty well, but the surface area is just not that big. Now, I know I'm going to be told to go around my local scrap yards to see if I can find some bigger (and heavier) pieces of steel and that's a great idea. However, I have called every scrap yard around my county and the two adjacent counties and have been told by everyone that they do not sell to the public anymore due to liability issues. Yes, you guessed it I'm in a northern state with approximately 10,000 too many lawyers. So, as that is not an option (or so it seems), my next stop will be at a metal store looking for a piece of 4x4 or 5x5, around 6 inches long. I've got one close that sells hot rolled (A36) and cold rolled (1045 and 4140). My question to you gentlemen and gentle ladies is which would make a better anvil (i.e. harder face, etc...)? Also, in lieu of the fact that it seems I can't get any scrap in this hole that I live in, what other options are there for me to look for used steel, before plucking down cash for a mild steel? Thanks in advance.
  13. Well, Grant I went with one of yours. The V-Box. Can't wait to get it to start using it. Those anchors are unwieldly with channel locks and vice grips, at least to this amateur.
  14. Thanks, Alan. That was kind of what I thinking, too. I'll go with the V-Box then, at least to get started straightening these things out.
  • Create New...