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Everything posted by ryanwrath

  1. ryanwrath


    i have a ridonkulous bowie knife ordered. the blade will be 12 roughly long and 2 inches wide. I am curious if anyone out there would be willing to heat treat it and polish it with a hamon....hoping for one of the wildy active hamons.....the blade is out of aldos 1095. a PM would be great, that way i can see replies easier...payment options... its not a museum piece, however modest sums would be ok or trades(this statement is not intended to detract from quality of workmanship, just a reality check). please be ready to show past work (many of you i have seen your work, and it would do beautifully; in fact some of it i would not sell ehe). anyway just putting "feelers" out.
  2. Besides having the title JS or MS beside your name, what is the draw for going through with the testing?
  3. Hi all i have a need to obtain some steel tubing that would be heat treatable in my shop in the same manner as blades, attaining a rockwell hardness in the same area as blades. after some research i found alot of differnt material out there, but w/o being able to see chemistry tables its a alot of guess work, was wondering if anyone had looked and found this stuff b4. answer here or PM would be awesome. thanks
  4. aha! thats some great stuff you have going on there.
  5. i mite be wrong on this but if you leave the entire piece encased in flux for alot of the forge welding you dont loose hardly any carbon during that time<<feel free to correct me as needed firebeards
  6. AHHHHHHH ok ty ty..........i knew there was something VERY wrong with the pennies.......i got seriously bad yellow powder, this really strange white fuzz, all the same crap i get when i am forced to weld already glavanized steel..............no i did not breath it i know better))...........but the 90+zinc .........ok ty now i know edit: ty for advice adding charcoal.........i will do that next time, this is not the first time i had brittle metal, i turned a 4x4 angle iron into a V shape, welded square plates on the ends to form a very rude triangluar mold, and melted down a ton of copper pipe into it..............that stuff was very nice copper, at least it burned w/o all the crappy colors from different elements in it...(it was about 70 yrs old)from a demo prodject, and had intended to put accents on a custome stairway i built, but it was SO damn brittle, like glass , just would not work for me, hope the charcoal works, that will be awesome.........ty gah, re-edit: what sir mark is a water cast? ty in advance)
  7. after a few chainsaw blades i have come the conclusion that using the chains i had available, they did not give a super great contrast, whatever i did....at least not like the pop in contrast i got from 1095/15n20...it still leaves most comon people speechlees though, as you can see them trying to rectify the length of chainsaw chain ytou have in your hand to blade you have in the other hand LOL one of the best reason yet to make a composite knife blade from it ........i found its also kewl in the san mai typ of build with a mild temper, wrap the chain around some 1095, its pretty wild once you get done spreading it around.
  8. each steel has its own properties and lord knows theres some serious pros on this forum, but in my humble opinion, test, test and test again.....your heat treating may differ wildly from descriptions here in, so heat treat as you think, then put the knife through the most rigorous testing possible, up to destruction....until you get consistent, desirable results.. this is what i did on my migration from 5160 to 1095 to 1095/15n20 pattern weld, on down through the 10xx steels to the 1045's...to answer your question in a more direct manner, though, i would consider a LIL tempering at least to take the brittle curse off the blade, but once again, testing testing testing.... good luck
  9. laminate 1/8" or so strips of oak together using 2 part epoxy. this will tend to make one helluva difference in toughness, and if you add carbon fiber to the glue joints it raises the bar to some really astonishing feats of strenght......i picked this up making sled dog runners for pro's (adding the carbon fiber layers). might take some playing with to get your own recipe for success down, but that is what i have done for some boar spear shafts......they simply cannot break or you have one pissedoff hog coming at you that knows no pain.....good luck.
  10. i have been playing with melting copper and nickel, just pennies and nickels(5c piece) but after it cools, if i so much as look at it wrong it breaks like grainy glass into many peices.....the symptoms tell me im overcooking it, but even when i get the metal to just molten, quick stir with a stainless rod, and out, let cool, tap with hammer, shatter....how do i overcome that or is it even possible. thanks. one thing i forgot: i have a larg cast iron ladle that is my container for the melting material, and my propane forge is the heat.
  11. Another machete....crimson paracord subwrap, black overlay. aldos 5160 full distal taper . blade was left as is, the buyer did not want to pay me to mirror it out.....which is fine its going to get seriously abused anyway...the guys that were there had alot of fun chopping 2x4's .....its a fun cutter. the OAL was 32 inches with a 7" handle. Sorry one bad pic, but this one was the first long blade I have made that just went went so smooth, not to many hitches as i have finally done enough of these to head off glitches b4 they become a problem....this blade replaced a machete made by a smith in San Salvadore that was stolen.
  12. :::IF:::: 1075 is close enough to use the 1080 heat treating info (im not sure); Alpha Knife supply has all the appropriate heat treating information listed for each type of steel they sell for blades....they dont have 1075 currently but do have 1080, with a graph to show what rockwell hardness you want and how to get there. Cheers.
  13. i just built myself a new gas forge ... i went eye height, or actually a lil below it, since i was eyeballing the cieling and the amount of heat, flame i know comes off it for a safety factor,.....but i sure didnt want to be bent over watching my peices come up to heat....... just my 2 cents
  14. ty for the warning Alan. as i was looking around, i hapend to notice that mentioned....one thing i have to find out is if only an appropriately filtered respirator is all that is needed, or if it also will enter through the eyes and skin.........also the fume if it was in a smelt? lol thomas obach..i happen to have a couple friends at the university ill have to start poking around over there > ty for correction rogerr >
  15. ty for your replies.......the ones that i found were very certainly rated to melt and hold liquid steel....some of the others are for gold, silver, aluminum, etc. and these had .5' in sidewalls. I simply want to be able to have it hold the liquid, come up to heat, turn the furnace off, and let it cool down. since i am very new to crucible melts, i still dont know what i can and cannot get away with as far as types of crucibles, and their assorted materials of construction....all that being said, many thanks to all who replied! as a side note i was looking for a source of vanadium and boron ... any ideas? i have found lots of places on the web, but i seem to get way better info here than blindly trying my luck ..which is good. > one question i have is ... would the proper way of saying that is i am looking for FEROvanadium and or FEROboron?
  16. I have been looking for crucibles to melt steels together in.... i found a maker i think in scotland. the smallest they were able or willing to make was like 4.5" OD and 8" tall, that works ok for me, as far as the size goes, but pricer per crucible was a pretty fair sum, and you have to make a 500.oo min order..does anyone have info on A: a cheaper source, or B: a reliable vendor that would sell me the raw material for making them? thanks.
  17. i wonder if the guitar strings had any brass in them. i tried to forge weld a peice of brass to each side of a damascus billet, and it sure did weld up allrite..........it also impregnated itself throughout the billet , and within 2 heats i had spamm cracks all allong the 4 edges of the billet, and as i worked it a lil more, it seemed that the brass had penetrated throughout the billet entirely, with each hammer blow starting more cracks and crumbles...from the lil bubles of brass falling off into the forge it also made it almost unusable as each time i brought it up to forge heat any peice of metal i put in there got this tiny tinge of brass on it.
  18. hey man im not totally hip on all the ins and outs of WELDING steel cable together into a solid billet, but the improved plow steel is what i would go with, AND if you are going to pay money for it, try and get it WITHOUT the non metalic core that comes in alot of crane and choker cables.....this prevents you making many steps in order to weld it up......just about word for word what i tell the guys at my local rigging supply company of choice. Good Luck.
  19. awesom. thanks. i looked around locally and 100% of the time got a blank stare from people working in the stores, even went to a "custom gun shop" says so rite on the huge sign out front, the guy at the counter told me i should go find a gunsmith............LOL.........it was the same story when i was trying to find acra glass, no can do in every store i went into, infact NO ONE had even heard of it ........i eventually went to a VERY expensive 2 part epoxy by loctite that i have been fairly happy with, but i tend to suspect that its probly not the same caliber of stuff that acra glass is from what i have heard...once i use it up im going to order some off the net i spose. ok thanks again for the info.
  20. theres a a blade posted a few months ago that had a "jewell" effect (i THINK that is what it was called) that the poster said was done with a spinning rubber erasure...i was wondering where to get said rubber stick i have been scratching my head and not coming up with any bright ideas on where to buy this...any info would be great, a PM would be better > cheers
  21. hey ok many thanks for the fume safety people!! i deal with welding on galvanized and zinc coated materials all the time, never would have guessed.......again many thanks.......i know how to get it to melt now, any simple ideas on casting it around the tang of a already made.......say butter knife? if not no biggy i found some crap on the net, but i get hinky believing some of it....thanks again
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