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ryanwrath

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Everything posted by ryanwrath

  1. i couldnt help but weigh in here as i struggled for a year with a propane forge since that was the only thing i could get going at my property.... i mad mine out of an old Lejune boldt can, wich is super thin , very much like a 5 gal pain can that is metal.....i put 4 inches of ceramic wool, wich is more that most will tell you to put in, but i used 1x1 strapping to put 2 metal legsgs front and back, and i can take the thing to 3000F and touch the outside of it w/o burning my hand. I drilled two hole in the outside at aprox 80% of 90 degrees straight up, using a normal hole saw , and used a 3/4 inch black iron nippel with front/back washer nuts to hold the thing stable to the walls of the can, peened the lid on, cut a 5x7 hole and use fire brick to make it whatever size i want opening in front, and tiny 6 inch grinder disk tear out in back to slip long 24+in pieces in and out of pm me for pics and better explanation........i spent nothing on the metal body of the forge, and whatever the local retailer was asking for the large piece of kaol wool i wanted.........but i must say that one of my goals was to make my forge out of zero money that was a propane forge.........after experimnenting time and again, i finally just bought burners , they were 70$ at the time from larry zoeler and im sure there are many variants that make good stuff........just saying i bought his..........but i forge welld all the time with a 20LBS propane tank, and do ALL my forging in general with it no matter what propane source i have hooke up to it(cept lil bottles of course).
  2. i recently acquired a 2gallon pail of brass bolts. i wanted to melt these down and then cast them into handles (maybe) for some dinnerware im planning....i am not sure what the best way to turn these into liquid is. such as steel smelts in canisters i have seen people using broken green glass or whatever was wondering if brass had similar process.... Also was wondering what medium ( i am assuming sand of some kind) do i pour the brass into for molding purposes? i am using a propane forge, and about the only thing i really have at the moment to melt it in is an old cast iron ladle such as you would use to pour lead shot.. i can always order whatever i don have but just to set the tone of the replies hehe. thanks
  3. The reason i quenched it so many times is it was just a lil short quench to start the blade upcurving, but then i immediately put it back in the heat so it wouldnt crack. so each time i quenched it i got more up curve (recurve?) on it....i did this intentionaly knowing that i was going to do the final quench in oil and that would down curve it wich i did NOT want....i showed the oil quench blade just as an example of what i was dealing with (i know its no mystery to most). however i was looking for some more feedback on the quenching procedure simply becaue i have a 90% failure rate in water (this is my first time out with 1095) i am extremely carefull on temps at least as carefull as one can be with a magnet and eye. One other note: i have noticed that if i normalize, then heat and quench, look at the warps, heat the blade up tap em out , then re H.T. bang out those warps, after 3 -4 quenches the blade ceases to warp much if at all MOST times.......now that is a process i came up with using 5160 which i used exclusivly for about a year to make blades out of......1095 is obviously a different animal. i have to get my interrupted quench technique down i can see that making alot of sense. although i dont have parks so its going to be water into corn oil. Many thanks for the feedback Kevin.
  4. those are great !! im begging for a wip on the handle >
  5. I would be interested in what knowledge people have of successfully making a shaveable razor.. i can make it so it will shave but not the comfort level ....i had the cutting edge single chisel edge at 12degrees, honed and stropped (seemingly properly) and it will shave ok, but up under nose, or neck it really pulls, leaves ya lil teary eyed.... Excellent piece and good eye on materials!
  6. The top rusty blade is edge down in picture obviously oil quenched because of the downturned blade. The bottom blade is my latest attempt to get a hamon out of 1095. the hamon was way low close to the edge, maybe at the highest .5" from the edge. this blade was final quenched in oil also, although to get it swept up i normalized it a couple times then started to quench it in very very short times in very hot water, then straight back into the forge till it got just a lil bit of color and then repeat until i got the curve i wanted (this was a grind job, was ground out dead straight, super simple) this took 7 very short quenches, then normalized it again, and got a lil bit over non mag and quenched in oil emmediately. this is the fourth knife , and the only one that didnt crack badly. i tried 3 out of 1095 and they all developed cracks in the edge after a short time out of the quench, so on number 4 i went with oil just because i wanted to keep it for sure ehe. the edges cracked even when i left some good meat on the edge, well over 1/16th". all where clayed with rutlands. into hot water.....maybe i kept it in to long? i was in for 4 secs, out 2 in 2secs. any thoughts?
  7. thanks for the info. i had forgotten about the dive it takes in oil. it sounds like i would want to go with water maybe. I also have one more question i remember reading in posts someone adding soap to their quench. is that in addition to salt? does it soften the blow so to speak of the quench? i was curious what role that played. thanks again.
  8. So i have a question about quenching 1095...my only quench setup is in a vertical 5' tube filled with oil ............if i am claying a blade and trying for hamon, will i get some good results? or with clayed blade should i still edge quench? thanks.
  9. aha yep that does look like a familiar piece of anvil material.very nice to have it in the floor like that.
  10. hey stormcrow ill post some when i get daylight tomorrow (sorry for bad pics its the bane of my life).
  11. new machete forged from 5160 stock. made to work. handle is figured maple with inset cord wrapping. blade is 23" long ricasso area 1", handle 10". good practice on getting longer pieces forged, HT'd straight etc. cant wait to do more. updated pics. dont know if these show the blade anymore, but they do show the sheath i just completed b4 handing the machete over. sheath made from Concealex (sometimes known as kydex). rigged for a crossdraw, and provisions made to lash to equipment or backpack. one thing i notices about this sheath..its super light, yet incredibly strong i almost put arm straps on it so you could have it on your left arm as a sort of shield. but since this was a machete i did not > one note: i finished the blade in the same manner as draw finling, only with a fine sharpening stone and WD40, same quarter turn polishing pattern. i liked it. got a good finish quick.. was not going for super gloss since the blade is going to get straight up abused.
  12. i started with a fire brick forge and a zoeller "z" burner. I ran into issues with the firebrick not refelcting the heat at all, took forever to heat up. i added kaolwool to virtually the same chamber and it gets as hot as you want. that being said grab a burner like the z burner. and add refactory.
  13. oh yeah dude thats cool. artwork or part of a peice taht is walkaround art?
  14. AH!! cool ok thank you SIR. im off to do just that
  15. hi all. If you are going to transfer a drawing, figure, whatever the choice, but NOT freehand in bluing ink, what other ways would there be? for instance I wanted to transfer most of a drawing onto a blade, then free hand the rest. What options are there? I have tried putting a light coat of ink on the blade, then putting said pic on the blade then tracing the pic......with marginal results. I know of the etching and etc, I just simply am looking for a good work around on the transfer of a pic on normal paper to blade, line for line, so i can chisel it out. thanks. cheers.
  16. 3.5 inch blade of 5160 mirror polished. cuts like a harmonic scalpel. cord wrapped 4.25inch handle. im also doing the modifications to the footwear in question couple wraps on the cord i wish were more precise. that will teach me to stay up late..
  17. i bought a cheap ryobi grinder with smooth / coarse stones on it. bought two cheap ryobi cloth wheels. bought rough buffing compound and the finest grade compound as well. replaced the stone wheels with the buffing wheels. one wheel gets the rough rouge the other wheel gets the fine, making sure to wipe off all the coarse stuff before hitting the super fine. obviously if you heavily contaminate the super fine with the coarse your going backwards. takes a about 5-10 minutes depending on the blade to take it from 400 grit to straight up mirror polish, also can polish brass and copper in record time.......just be carefull on the heat i find that dipping in watter often, and then keeping the water on the blade so the wheel gets a lil wet makes it shinier faster for some reason regards.
  18. That is a sweet bowie. love the furniture, love the lines.
  19. latest addition to my hammer family just born yesterday out of 5160 shaft material and drifted and water quenched rounded face on one side. flatter on the other. hair under 2lbs. Tools for a different kind of metal smith : made this for my day job. Welding rod belt holder. Holster leather with chocolate dye and tooled to the inth degree.
  20. The Scalpel: 5160 mirror polished, with acrylic accent on handle. AOL: 7 1/4 in. BL: 3 3/8 in. tip to choil. Blade thickness: 3/32 in. Price $175.00 u.s. + S&H Whimsy Madness: Fun EDC or kitchen slicer made from 5160 and mirror polished; with custom wave file work over 3/5th's of the blade and entire handle, including part of the finger choil. The file work is raised from the handle slabes as an accent and to provide extreme gripping in wet conditions. Acrylic hand polished to 12000 grit with silver pins. OAL : 8 1/2in. BL: 4 3/8 in tip to finger choil Sheath available upon detailed request. Price: $135.00 u.s +S&H. In god we trust, all others use paypal. If a different payment arrangement is needed PM me or contact me at: Willia_123@yahoo.com. Thanks for looking!
  21. i love those. thanks for showing clay layout.ah, dumb question time. there are more holes than pins (obviously) in the handles of the full tangs. was that to lighten it up? thanks
  22. i am really liking this knife it just works for me. The sheath is a great job as well. One question i have is the dimensions of the blade from tip to guard. once again i think great work. i would love to feel how the action in the hand is
  23. now that is really cool stuff. i love that copper frog. a blacksmith friend of mine just exposed me to the world of repousse and i could not believe what was possible thanks for the time and effort to reconstruct the tutorial
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