tormentchris

Thanks, That's some good stuff. I truly think that will help alot.

I think I'm going to make a homemade graver machine. There are a few tutorials on youtube. The question I have does anyone have any tutorials on making the graver bits? I have a bunch of garage door spring and was told they make great gravers. Any recommendations? thanks, Chris

Cool, Thanks for all the replies. That helps alot.

Has anyone used Birchwood gun bluing solution or any other of the like on blades as a final finish? If so, does anyone have any recommendations and or procedures that they would be willing to share? I have a request for a blade and they want it blued. I'm just trying to find out as much as I can from anyone who has done it. Thanks, Chris

WOW! I really didn't have any idea that it was that complicated to sharpen a razor. I've had several knives sharpe enough to shave hair off. I thought that since it is so much thin of a material that it would be alot easier to get that sharp. There's oviously so much more to it. Thanks so much i'll do what it takes to get this baby to were I can shave with it. Oh, and I guess I should learn how toactually use one corectly before I cut my face off.

I'm pretty sure that's not the case. If so, then there would surley be grind marks on the spine of the blade. There clearly isn't. Thanks though.

Btw, It's 1095, 1075 and 15N20 at 63 layers

I've sharpened and sharpened and sharpended this thing and I can't seem to get it sharp enough to get a good shave. I know I heat treated it well. I don't know what the deal is. i took it on a 5 stone Lanskey set and then took it to a piece of leather that I used as a strop. Any ideas? Or solutions rather? It's driving me crazy... Thanks, chris

Cool, good stuff!!! I'm starting to think this stainless thing is too much sugar for a dime. I know my buddy takes very good care of his kives. He's a professional BBQ and meat chef. That being said, I do think I'll go with a nice pattern welded steel with 15N20 included. Got to love that shine

so, doing 90% of the work hot is key?

Also, I forgot to ask. I've heard that a clean coke fire is best for stainless. Does that mean that i can't use my propane forge and I have to use my coal forge? Do I need to buy some actual coke or can I just make some with my coal. It probably depends on what type of steel I'm forging with, huh? The coal I have cokes up really nicely. BTW

I have a couple people that want some chef knives. I've done a little reading about forging stainless steel but I'd like to hear it from some people as well before I get started ordering steels and forging. I found a piece of steel in my shop (1" squared) that has no rust, oxidation, or frankly any discoloration at all. Most non-stainless steels will discolor a little bit from just sitting around in the shop after a period of time. Anyway, I digress. 440-c is a preaty common steel to use but how is it under the hammer? 154-CM is another but i've hearsd that it is very difficult for forge. I buy steel at Jantz and there is several different types and was wondering what would be the best to use. I plan on making a good hunting knife out of what ever I get too. With all that said, Any advise would be appreciated. Thank, Chris

I started a tripple twisted core viking sword last week. I drew out the core billet to 3' long, 7/16" squared. That only gives me 12." I'm thinking thats not quite long enough. If I weld up another billet identicle in numbers and draw it out, cut 18" I'll have 3, 18" 7/16" squared. That seems mch better. I'm afraid of the blade being way too thin after the final shaping. I'd rather have too much than not enough. In length I mean. I've already replied to athother post of mine about this smae sword. If read then sorry for the mix up. I didn't know how to repost something new on an older post that would pop up as a new post. Anyways. Thanks, chris

So, I got my billet drawn out to 7/16" suared and it's 3' long. If I am makng a tripple core, is that going to be long enough? I was thinkng I should weld up another billet with identicle numbers, draw it out and use 18" of it so that all three of the core pieces are 18." It seems to me that 3, 12" pieces will be too small and will be way too thin after the final draw out and fuller is ground. Are my estimations right? Maybe if I had 4 at 12" and 7/16" thick it might work. I'd much rather have too much than not enough (lenght I mean.) Thanks, Chris

Great thanks!!! Here I go I'll report my progress. More to help me with feedback than anything else but I'm excited to get this thing goin.