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Everything posted by tormentchris

  1. Thanks, That's some good stuff. I truly think that will help alot.
  2. I think I'm going to make a homemade graver machine. There are a few tutorials on youtube. The question I have does anyone have any tutorials on making the graver bits? I have a bunch of garage door spring and was told they make great gravers. Any recommendations? thanks, Chris
  3. Cool, Thanks for all the replies. That helps alot.
  4. Has anyone used Birchwood gun bluing solution or any other of the like on blades as a final finish? If so, does anyone have any recommendations and or procedures that they would be willing to share? I have a request for a blade and they want it blued. I'm just trying to find out as much as I can from anyone who has done it. Thanks, Chris
  5. WOW! I really didn't have any idea that it was that complicated to sharpen a razor. I've had several knives sharpe enough to shave hair off. I thought that since it is so much thin of a material that it would be alot easier to get that sharp. There's oviously so much more to it. Thanks so much i'll do what it takes to get this baby to were I can shave with it. Oh, and I guess I should learn how toactually use one corectly before I cut my face off.
  6. I'm pretty sure that's not the case. If so, then there would surley be grind marks on the spine of the blade. There clearly isn't. Thanks though.
  7. I've sharpened and sharpened and sharpended this thing and I can't seem to get it sharp enough to get a good shave. I know I heat treated it well. I don't know what the deal is. i took it on a 5 stone Lanskey set and then took it to a piece of leather that I used as a strop. Any ideas? Or solutions rather? It's driving me crazy... Thanks, chris
  8. Cool, good stuff!!! I'm starting to think this stainless thing is too much sugar for a dime. I know my buddy takes very good care of his kives. He's a professional BBQ and meat chef. That being said, I do think I'll go with a nice pattern welded steel with 15N20 included. Got to love that shine
  9. Also, I forgot to ask. I've heard that a clean coke fire is best for stainless. Does that mean that i can't use my propane forge and I have to use my coal forge? Do I need to buy some actual coke or can I just make some with my coal. It probably depends on what type of steel I'm forging with, huh? The coal I have cokes up really nicely. BTW
  10. I have a couple people that want some chef knives. I've done a little reading about forging stainless steel but I'd like to hear it from some people as well before I get started ordering steels and forging. I found a piece of steel in my shop (1" squared) that has no rust, oxidation, or frankly any discoloration at all. Most non-stainless steels will discolor a little bit from just sitting around in the shop after a period of time. Anyway, I digress. 440-c is a preaty common steel to use but how is it under the hammer? 154-CM is another but i've hearsd that it is very difficult for forge. I b
  11. I started a tripple twisted core viking sword last week. I drew out the core billet to 3' long, 7/16" squared. That only gives me 12." I'm thinking thats not quite long enough. If I weld up another billet identicle in numbers and draw it out, cut 18" I'll have 3, 18" 7/16" squared. That seems mch better. I'm afraid of the blade being way too thin after the final shaping. I'd rather have too much than not enough. In length I mean. I've already replied to athother post of mine about this smae sword. If read then sorry for the mix up. I didn't know how to repost something new on an older post th
  12. So, I got my billet drawn out to 7/16" suared and it's 3' long. If I am makng a tripple core, is that going to be long enough? I was thinkng I should weld up another billet with identicle numbers, draw it out and use 18" of it so that all three of the core pieces are 18." It seems to me that 3, 12" pieces will be too small and will be way too thin after the final draw out and fuller is ground. Are my estimations right? Maybe if I had 4 at 12" and 7/16" thick it might work. I'd much rather have too much than not enough (lenght I mean.) Thanks, Chris
  13. Great thanks!!! Here I go I'll report my progress. More to help me with feedback than anything else but I'm excited to get this thing goin.
  14. The first time didn't go so well but thats beside the point today. I am starting the core billet with wrought iron, 15n20, 1095 and 1075 I plan to stack 4, 1" W, 6" L, 3/8" thick wrought with 5, 1" W, 6" L, 1/16" thick 15n20, 5, 1" L, 6" W, 1/8" thick 1095 and 3, 1" W, 6" L, 1/4" thick 1075. For the cutting edge I plan to stack 6, 1095 same size, 3, wrought iron same size, and 6,1075 same size. I guess, what I'm wondering, is that going to work out? I plan to do a tripple twisted core and a high layer cutting edge. Now that I have my coal forge hooked up again, I'm comfortable starting a s
  15. does anyone have any wrought iron bar stock for sale? i'm looking for some 2" wide 3' long and @ 1/8 to 3/8" thick. thanks, chris
  16. thanks, it's actually got a preety heavy handle so it ballances out nicely. the actual hammer head part is a bit longer than i would have prefered but it's the first one i've made, so. trial and error. that's what we live by. right?
  17. This was deffinanly one of the funest weopons I've made.
  18. cool, thanks man. just trying to get some ideas. how thick is the tile you used?
  19. I just got all the parts for my belt sander. FINALLY!!! I was wondering if anyone has any word on platten backings. I can get a pyrex or graphite backing. Are they really worth buying or can I just make my own and out of what? Are they really nessesary? It seems, if I get my platten really smooth then it would do just fine. How much heat does it eliminate? Any help is appreciated, Chris
  20. I'm in the process of buil;ding a 2x72. it's just that right now i'm kinda stuck using what i have and am trying to get the best results. i'm sure when i get it completed it will be much easier. Micheal, that's great. i don't know why but i didn't check google. it's funny but i didn't. thanks man
  21. I'm wanting to make a hallow grind jig. I suck at hollow grinding and desperatly need to figure out some kind of jig but don't have $500 to spend on one. There's got to be an easy soulution for building one and was wondering if anyone has a plan or an idea. I Am in the process of building a good 2x72" grinder but I'm about $550 bucks away from finishing. Until I have it complete, I'm using a 2x42 craftsman grinder. It does ok but i have a real hard time with a hallow grind because of the design of the machine. I have modified it a little but to no avail with the hallow grind. any help? thank
  22. very nice work Jim, ya know, checking out your work and from what you wright it sounds like there's a lot of wisdom there. I've only been bladesmithing for about 4 years but seeing the work of veterans like yourself, gives me a lot of hope that I will one day have my own legacy to show and speak of. what have you written? I would love to check out your books. Books are some of the best tools I've ever owned and I cherish all of them as I do my hammers. -Chris
  23. I'm sure they're too deep. I'm just gonna twist up more bars. Argh!!! Oh well, I guess it's the learning process. Out of six bars and doing everything I possibly can do to minimize weld shears, I'm sure I can get it right.
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