Jump to content

Jeff Amundson

Members
  • Content Count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Jeff Amundson

  1. My industrial experience was with epoxy-bonded aluminum bicycle frames. The prescribed bond prep was to blast with aluminum oxide grit followed by rinsing with isopropyl alcohol, no exceptions, no substitutes.
  2. Thanks Alan. I don't think Grace forges. As far as historical practice, I've seen scissors produced both ways. I learned the butt weld because my first scissors were little one-piece spring shears, and they are made that way. I bought one an Amazon and reverse engineered it. When I started to make pivoted scissors, I decided to see if I could scale up the technique. It seemed to work, and I've since seen some historical examples. I've seen videos of scissors produced with the flatwise laminate you described. I haven't been tempted to try it, because I don't know what I'd gain by it
  3. My method of making a scissors blade is to forge weld a tool steel cutting edge to a 1018 body. I've tried a few different tool steel alloys, but I'd like some expert opinions to help me optimize my choice. This photo shows how the tool steel sits on the 1018 for welding. The forged blade (that I pulled from my scrap pile) shows how the blade is drawn out. I forge to thickness, not length. The blade starts 5/16 thick, and I forge it to 5/32, which about doubles its length. I've used 01, 1084, and 5160. I have two main criteria I'm trying to consider in alloy selec
  4. There's no scarf in these pictures. I think you're looking at how the O1 broke. I scarf the butt end of the O1 where I have to blend it into the 1018, but that's not in these pictures.
  5. I think I know what's going on here, but I'd to hear other opinions. This scissors blade was an experiment to begin with. When I found some cracks, I decided to break it to see what was revealed. The first picture shows the tip end of the blade. It's a heat treated laminate of 1018 and O1. I used a little ferric chloride to clearly show the two alloys. I sawed and ground the 1018 to remove it from a short section. Then I clamped the exposed stub of O1 in a vise and tried to create a peel in the weld. The O1 eventually broke. I was happy how far the O1 bent before breaki
  6. Not at this stage. I forge them as flat as I can. Adjusting the blade overlap is one of the last steps. We follow each other on Instagram. She's been a great help.
  7. Today I tried drilling the pivot hole before doing any grinding. It's the first time I've done it this way. I need the pivot screw in place to finish the hot work, but I don't like cleaning the scale off multiple times. The forgings need to fit together as forged, but it will let me finish the hot work before touching the grinder. The white mark on the blade is where the tool steel cutting edge ends.
  8. I brought a laser into the smithy and noticed no time warp. It should help me create symmetry around a centerline and locate the pivot hole.
  9. Thanks for all your kind words. I was a knifemaker before I took up blacksmithing. I enjoyed blacksmithing more. Scissors gives me the best combination of both.
  10. I've tried a variety of pivots, both rivets and screws. My first pivoted scissors were bonsai-type, so I used a rivet. Typically these scissors have conical copper or brass washers on the rivet. I initially thought the cone shape was acting like a belleville washer to apply some spring force. What I now understand is that the cone simply lifts the head of the rivet off the scissors blade so peening the head doesn't expand the rivet in the hole in the blade. The rivet is also an axle, so it needs to fit nicely in its hole. Most scissors don't use any spring force to hold the blades together. Wh
  11. I had 2 goals for this design. I wanted to leave the shanks and bows as-forged, and I wanted the scissors to close without having to close my hand. The blades are mild steel with O1 cutting edges and rust blued. I've decided this style - bows created by bending the shanks - makes more sense for my shop than the punched and drifted style I had been making. Scissors have lots of surfaces to finish. This design eliminates the grinding, filing and polishing of the bows. It also lets me easily change the size and shape of the bows. To avoid sharp corners, I forged the shanks round befor
  12. I'm glad to see this post. When I started making scissors a few years ago, the internet failed me. I was surprised and disappointed to find almost nothing to answer my many questions. I'm glad to have someone to learn with. This is the video I studied. The first scissors I made were spring scissors like this. I now make all my scissors this way, with the cutting edge welded on just the edge, not the whole inner face. I will post the bonsai scissors I made.
  13. The first few spring scissors I made went to fly tiers. Easy to pick up and put down. You don't have to wear them.
  14. Thanks Alan. I didn't want to be the one to use the h-word. Thanks, Dan. No, the bend is done cold. The area of the bend is not hardened. I did all the rough grinding before heat treat. I pre-bent it to about 90 degrees for heat treat. That way I can quench both blades at the same time when I pull it out of the oven. I finish grinding the blades in that configuration, sharpen, then finish the bending. The video link I provided shows the bending really well at about 3:00. I aim for a thickness of about .040" to achieve the right springiness. It has to be that same thickness for m
  15. Thanks, billyO. The first photo shows the blemish on the back of the blade. The last one shows it on the inside. The blemish appears to go through the blade. I used ATP-641 on all surfaces. I was etching and rust bluing at the same time, using rubber gloves etc., so I was attentive to cleanliness.
  16. I had a small piece of low layer count 1095/15N20 leftover from a knife I made years ago. I squared it up, twisted it, and forged this scissors. My scissors usually have a cutting edge welded onto a mild steel body, so this one presented some problems for me. It took a lot of force to align the blades. I tried to keep the shanks out of the quench, but I don't think I was entirely successful. I sharpened the blades before etching, but the edge is pretty rough after. I decided to post pictures of it like this because it shows the contact point between the two blades. There's a bright
  17. These are mild steel (A36) with O1 edge. I try to avoid using A36, because I don't want any surprise hard spots where I need to file or drill. I originally sketched these with file work on the 1/4" square shanks. I switched to the twists because I wanted to leave some steel as-forged. The twists serve as witness to the heat of the forge. They also serve a couple other design functions. They provide a nice grip surface for a finger, and the bend in the shanks makes them look flexible. These are 7 1/2" OA, 3 1/4" blade, rust blued. This is the first time I've threaded on
  18. Grace spent some time working at Ernest Wright in Sheffield. She wrote an ebook called Making Artisan Scissors that's available on her site. It has lots of good information from history to grind angles.
  19. Don, I started with small spring scissors, then went to bonsai (jointless) style. Yes, thanks, I've seen that video.
  20. These are my latest. They are wrought iron steeled with O1. The iron came from a bridge in Iowa. The cutting edge is about 3” long. They are both rust blued. I left one brown. The other I took to black. I chose this blade shape, reminiscent of a tin snips, to show off more of the iron. The iron wouldn't tolerate any punching or twisting, so the shanks and bows are pretty plain. One blade has a square hole. The pivot screw has a mating square. The nut is used to set the 'tension' between the blades. The square assures the nut rotates with the screw. I peen the end of the thread so t
  21. I bought a few number drills and metric drills to get the fit I want. Jeff
  22. A friend asked me to make him some wood carving knives. I didn't know how to make it an interesting project until I saw R.H. Graham's sharp pointy sticks. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=30120 I used old 6” files. I rounded the corners and knocked the teeth down lightly on the grinder. The teeth still have some grip, but they aren't sharp. Thanks for the inspiration. Jeff
×
×
  • Create New...