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Jokke

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Everything posted by Jokke

  1. Nice to see you work on the pucks here! Sorry but I was not active here for quite some time, on one of the bext weekends I will be making more pucks with my friend Johannes. We will aim to 1,6% and above. It is always very urgent to normalize the wootz inbetween cycles of forging. In my eyes the necessary manipulation of the surface to achieve a decent "look" is underestimated. Best regards, Jokke
  2. well there has been some distortion, in pieces that had lots of cracks, Jan but still it is the fastes method that I have found, where the pressure helps to keep the wood in form oak is different, because of all the acids in it... it is even hard to stabilize after drying it this way.. Jokke
  3. found some new pics on wootz-ovens on fb: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.468368493323938.1073741835.438515189642602&type=1 seems to work
  4. here we come to see some hint of a pattern in my blade after I have tried to get rid of the filemarks using coarse waterstones (200 - 250 -300) but remember, this is all before any final heattreatment the raw blade, if you like... so the first quetion was. can I trust the rust? it came up by itself from the water so I used some ferric to be more sure: and it looks like there is some real character in this steel
  5. well, I have the Honour to be able to work on some of your Wootz, Niko, Kiitos sulle and here is the actual stand: 41cm of blade + tang, 30mm wide, 5mm thick at the back and down to 1,5mm now at the edge filed down from 460gr to 390 gr today still way before heattreatment:
  6. well, I would forge mine under 900, at around 850 down to 780°C, less cracking, but more cycles needed. Krysztof, you could try the Donut-technique, when you have hammered your puck down to be round like the above... here another link: http://www.tf.uni-kiel.de/matwis/amat/iss/kap_b/illustr/ib_5_3.html mainly the "usual subjects" Greetzes Jokke
  7. Tim, the main reason why people use more than one bottle is icing during high use of gas I usually put the gasbottle into a water bassin, to keep it "warmer" I have not yet tried to put two or more bottles in line.. I am still working on my last pieces with files, as I find the time to go to my workspace best regards Jokke
  8. on FB there is a "new" wootz theme with some interesting fotos and texts: https://www.facebook.com/Wootz.Bulat just to get some ideas... best regards Jokke
  9. he aims at 1,5 or 1,6%C as far as I know - rather traditional, but he has made some modern chrome "wootz" , too this is Achims burner this is one another friend made for me I mostly used these two kinds of ventury burners somwhere I have a pic about how to do one, by a friend, but I recommend: Gas Burners for forges, furnaces and killns, by Michael Porter ISBN 978-1-87953520-6 , skipjack press, 2004 www.finneyco.com to get a better understanding of venturi burners Niko has one that he may give away and I know it works very well so one could ask him, too never used more than a
  10. Sorry that I did not reply earlier, but I have not been on the forum for quite a while. I am German and learned most of what I did from Achim Wirtz, Anne Feuerbach's PhD and others still I am in touch with makers in Finnland, being lucky enough to understand Finnish (thx to my wife ) One of the guys you are looking for is Janne K., his nic is/was Kutvonen, he has a site of his own try him on fb (Jandaus Rahnasto) or here: http://www.pajauttelu.blogspot.de/p/under-construction.html you may ask him, if you can put down his real name by the way, Achim told me that a soaking of the k
  11. Hi folks, I used this method again on some oak-burl I got from a friend works very fine from this lot:
  12. hope you have a good class and that your pupils will have a decent size wootz-blade at the end of this week let us know how many heat-cycles they count best regards from Germany
  13. Hi Athan, I do have a burner like yours for my bigger red gas forge, the smaller one (5kg gas bottle) works with one of my venturi-systems in Achims burner was a 1mm gas feed tip that I changed into a 1mm mig-tip, because of its longer straight way for the gas (like rifle barrel, not like pistol) makes the venturi effect a bit stronger. Achim has been melting with this venturi for years now, needs no electricity, so it is very easy to take along... that is why I started like that, too but I want to try the blower-type burner in my smelter, too need to put somekind of connection
  14. Hi Athan, as you could see, I used the cutoff from the gas-bottle as a top. It has a kind of cupola effect. I had gotten the hint to weld some nails into the form, so that the lining of ceramic blanket had a better hold - and then put the cast on it. That works fine I think something with a better insulating effect would be better as a top, bricks "eat" a lot of energy - but so far I have not made a better "topping", but I am thinking about it... regards
  15. mine is big enough for an A6 now, too, but I tend to use smaller crucibles, since they need less energy firebrick is not transporting heat well, I recommend using the downer part of an old crucible as a stand pls be free to show some pics here, too, maybe of your burner? here some more pics: wrapping the bottle with some paper, did not make it much easier to get the concrete in, though this is how smooth it came out, much better than before so I heated it up with a burner from a friend of mine, had to close two holes to make it run evenly, but was able to open them up at abou
  16. so since I am on holiday I started a redo on my wootzsmelter, after working in the garden. It is my old smelter, made from an 11kg gasbottle, following a design I got from Achim Wirtz here in Germany it was a bit "nifty" as Niko once said, very narrow for an A1 crucible, so I want it to be bigger in the "heatroom" which should give me less trouble with the heat for the melts for that I took out some of the casting - had to hammer it out with some effort - finding that I made the walling very thick, some pieces where thicker than three - four centimeters out came over 11kg, much
  17. http://www.koraat-knives.at/public_html/menu3submenu1.php take a look here, Koraat has managed a smelting system with cokes, http://www.koraat-knives.at/public_html/menu3submenu3.php all in German pals and a video, too:
  18. take a look here, #18 there are two pics worth looking at. http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?84422-Gasesse-zum-Schmelzen or here: http://www.fursa-family.net/main/Vasilij_Fursa_files/Vasilij-Fursa/Wootz_files/bulat.html he uses coal or coke for the fire http://www.fursa-family.net/main/Vasilij_Fursa_files/Vasilij-Fursa/Wootz_files/crucible.html mit welcher Firma stehst denn in Kontakt? LG Jokke
  19. really nice look, fine lines and a superbly made damascus! but I have to admit, that I do not like guards, at least not most of them - here it kind of stands out, especially over the back of the blade, where it has no real function wonder how it would look like when you would grind that part down to the line (sorry, just my 5ct) best regards Jokke
  20. they are perfect to cut leather, I used them for the sheets and very accurate in cutting wood I hardened them to 56 HRC, which makes it easy enough to resharpen on a wetstone
  21. after taking my time to finish those two, I just sewed two small sheets for them data: wild damascus, about 120 layers of 2/3 1.2842(90MnCrV8) and 1/3 1.2767(X45NiCrMo4) made at the Bremeker Hammer (http://www.bremecker-hammer.de/) the broader one is one side flat grounded with an 28mm edge, 146mm long just before hardening and without the etch the smaller one has a blade of 26mm and is sharpened on both sides, both are cutting like a razor, 145mm long the flat side: one in brown the other one in black leather
  22. Hi, so I managed to get the smallest of the blades into a Puukko: the blade is now 79mm long, 3mm to 0 thick, at the hilt it is 25mm wide the handle is made from stabilized masure birch which was a bit spalted, I added black horn, which is also at the end and two spacers of black fiber it is 105mm long, has a nice fit to the hand just polished, nothing added nice to see the structure of the fine 160 layers of this superclean damascus (Balbach DSC) with the banding I put into it
  23. Peter, it is really nice to see that you are sharing your thoughts and findings with us all, since you gave me a glimpse on your notes in Solingen I thought that there is more in these than just for one book time seems to be ready for sharing and more discussions, good that you can publish you findings in this way I think the real transition starts when one uses the hints you gave making any new sword in the old way gives me lots to think about the design of my own knives and puukkos best regards
  24. reminds me of Waterville way in the south, where I spent some time in Sept. 2006 hope you had a sip of Blackbush thx for sharing!
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