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Posts posted by Jokke

  1. Nice to see you work on the pucks here! Sorry but I was not active here for quite some time, on one of the bext weekends I will be making more pucks with my friend Johannes. We will aim to 1,6% and above. It is always very urgent to normalize the wootz inbetween cycles of forging. In my eyes the necessary manipulation of the surface to achieve a decent "look" is underestimated.

    Best regards,


    • Like 1
  2. well there has been some distortion, in pieces that had lots of cracks, Jan

    but still it is the fastes method that I have found, where the pressure helps to keep the wood in form

    oak is different, because of all the acids in it...

    it is even hard to stabilize after drying it this way..



  3. here we come to see some hint of a pattern in my blade

    after I have tried to get rid of the filemarks

    using coarse waterstones (200 - 250 -300)


    but remember, this is all before any final heattreatment

    the raw blade, if you like...


    so the first quetion was. can I trust the rust? <_<



    it came up by itself from the water


    so I used some ferric to be more sure:




    and it looks like there is some real character in this steel B)






  4. well, I have the Honour to be able to work on some of your Wootz, Niko, Kiitos sulle

    and here is the actual stand:

    41cm of blade + tang, 30mm wide, 5mm thick at the back and down to 1,5mm now at the edge

    filed down from 460gr to 390 gr today

    still way before heattreatment:








  5. Tim,

    the main reason why people use more than one bottle is icing during high use of gas

    I usually put the gasbottle into a water bassin, to keep it "warmer"


    I have not yet tried to put two or more bottles in line..


    I am still working on my last pieces with files,

    as I find the time to go to my workspace


    best regards



  6. he aims at 1,5 or 1,6%C as far as I know - rather traditional, but he has made some modern chrome "wootz" , too

    this is Achims burner
    this is one another friend made for me

    I mostly used these two kinds of ventury burners

    somwhere I have a pic about how to do one, by a friend,

    but I recommend: Gas Burners for forges, furnaces and killns, by Michael Porter

    ISBN 978-1-87953520-6 , skipjack press, 2004 www.finneyco.com

    to get a better understanding of venturi burners


    Niko has one that he may give away and I know it works very well

    so one could ask him, too


    never used more than a 11kg gas bottle

    one hour can do the job for about 2 kg in a clay-graphit crucible if everything is well prepared and the insulation of the furnace is well done

    this one was lined with material that can hold up to 1800°C
    you will have to look around, but things can be found, not for low I am afraid to say
    but they are there
    best regards
  7. Sorry that I did not reply earlier,

    but I have not been on the forum for quite a while.

    I am German and learned most of what I did from Achim Wirtz, Anne Feuerbach's PhD and others

    still I am in touch with makers in Finnland, being lucky enough to understand Finnish (thx to my wife :D )

    One of the guys you are looking for is Janne K., his nic is/was Kutvonen, he has a site of his own

    try him on fb (Jandaus Rahnasto) or here:


    you may ask him, if you can put down his real name


    by the way, Achim told me that a soaking of the king in 720°C for about 12 hours will do a fantastic job on dissolving the C and make it easier to forge it afterwards

    I did not try this, yet, but I will on a small cake that I have lying around, sooner or later


    best regards from Germany


    Jokke (Lagerspets)


    PS I have gathered some info on a german forum (messerforum.net as jl-jokke)


    don't know why, but it has gathered over 50.000 hits B)

    have not been posting much there in the last years

  8. hope you have a good class and that your pupils will have a decent size wootz-blade at the end of this week

    let us know how many heat-cycles they count


    best regards from Germany

  9. Hi Athan,

    I do have a burner like yours for my bigger red gas forge,

    in der werkstatt (1).JPG


    the smaller one (5kg gas bottle) works with one of my venturi-systems

    in Achims burner was a 1mm gas feed tip that I changed into a 1mm mig-tip, because of its longer straight way for the gas (like rifle barrel, not like pistol) makes the venturi effect a bit stronger.

    Achim has been melting with this venturi for years now, needs no electricity, so it is very easy to take along...


    that is why I started like that, too

    but I want to try the blower-type burner in my smelter, too

    need to put somekind of connection onto the pipe,since the intake of the smelter is of a smaller diameter than the (I quess 2 inch)pipe of the burner (I did not build it myself, it came with the gasforge, that someone from eastern Germany had to sell, because his neighbours would not let him forge and hammer in the backyard, *bummer*)


    hope to get to the making of a king these days,

    I am going to use the bigger venturi-burner, (the one in the fourth pic) that has a device to blow in extra air (it is a bit like cheating on the venturi)

    I will try to show pics then..

    best regards

  10. ... how do you construct the cover? I just use some thick firebricks but it seems a bit crude. On the other hand maybe the thermal mass from the bricks keeps the ingot top nice and hot as it solidifies and builds dendrites...

    Hi Athan,

    as you could see, I used the cutoff from the gas-bottle as a top. It has a kind of cupola effect. I had gotten the hint to weld some nails into the form, so that the lining of ceramic blanket had a better hold - and then put the cast on it. That works fine

    I think something with a better insulating effect would be better as a top, bricks "eat" a lot of energy - but so far I have not made a better "topping", but I am thinking about it...


  11. mine is big enough for an A6 now, too, but I tend to use smaller crucibles, since they need less energy

    firebrick is not transporting heat well, I recommend using the downer part of an old crucible as a stand


    pls be free to show some pics here, too, maybe of your burner?


    here some more pics:


    wrapping the bottle with some paper, did not make it much easier to get the concrete in, though


    this is how smooth it came out, much better than before


    so I heated it up with a burner from a friend of mine, had to close two holes to make it run evenly, but was able to open them up at about 800°C


    until then most of the water had damped out and I had an old A6 crucible with some nails in it


    then I changed the burner to Achim W's "hellburner" which gave the temp a kick up to 1400°C



    let it go for a while




    although the temp was not high enough to do a melting

    next time then...



  12. so since I am on holiday I started a redo on my wootzsmelter, after working in the garden.


    It is my old smelter, made from an 11kg gasbottle, following a design I got from Achim Wirtz here in Germany

    it was a bit "nifty" as Niko once said, very narrow for an A1 crucible, so I want it to be bigger in the "heatroom"

    which should give me less trouble with the heat for the melts



    for that I took out some of the casting - had to hammer it out with some effort -

    finding that I made the walling very thick, some pieces where thicker than three - four centimeters


    out came over 11kg, much more than I thought


    the wool is still in good shape, so that can stay, the bottom is still ok and the pipe gives a tangential flame to the bottom of the crucible, there is anough space to use some stands, too


    I found an old bottle that will make for the inside, it is big enough to give the space for my crucibles (Achim said: a double-magnum redwine bottle will do the trick, too)


    more in the next days



  13. really nice look, fine lines and a superbly made damascus!

    but I have to admit, that I do not like guards, at least not most of them - here it kind of stands out, especially over the back of the blade, where it has no real function

    wonder how it would look like when you would grind that part down to the line (sorry, just my 5ct)

    best regards


  14. after taking my time to finish those two, I just sewed two small sheets for them

    data: wild damascus, about 120 layers of 2/3 1.2842(90MnCrV8) and 1/3 1.2767(X45NiCrMo4)

    made at the Bremeker Hammer (http://www.bremecker-hammer.de/)


    the broader one is one side flat grounded with an 28mm edge, 146mm long

    just before hardening and without the etch

    eigene kridashi (2).JPG

    the smaller one has a blade of 26mm and is sharpened on both sides, both are cutting like a razor, 145mm long

    eigenes kiridashi (1).JPG


    eigene kiridashi -kogatana (1).JPG

    the flat side:

    eigene kiridashi -kogatana (3).JPG


    eigene kiridashi -kogatana (4).JPG



    one in brown

    eigenes kiridashi mit Ledertasche (1).JPG

    the other one in black leather

    eigenes kiridashi mit Ledertasche (2).JPG


    eigenes kiridashi mit Ledertasche (3).JPG


    eigene kiridashi -kogatana (5).JPG

  15. Hi, so I managed to get the smallest of the blades into a Puukko:


    the blade is now 79mm long, 3mm to 0 thick, at the hilt it is 25mm wide


    the handle is made from stabilized masure birch which was a bit spalted,

    I added black horn, which is also at the end and two spacers of black fiber

    it is 105mm long, has a nice fit to the hand

    just polished, nothing added
    DSC-bänder-spältedbirch (1).JPG


    DSC-bänder-spältedbirch (2).JPG


    DSC-bänder-spältedbirch (4).JPG


    DSC-bänder-spältedbirch (5).JPG

    nice to see the structure of the fine 160 layers of this superclean damascus (Balbach DSC)

    with the banding I put into it

    DSC-bänder-spältedbirch (8).JPG


    DSC-bänder-spältedbirch (10).JPG


    DSC-bänder-spältedbirch (12).JPG

  16. Peter,

    it is really nice to see that you are sharing your thoughts and findings with us all,


    since you gave me a glimpse on your notes in Solingen I thought that there is more in these than just for one book

    time seems to be ready for sharing and more discussions,

    good that you can publish you findings in this way


    I think the real transition starts when one uses the hints you gave

    making any new sword in the old way


    gives me lots to think about the design of my own knives and puukkos


    best regards

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