Jump to content

Jokke

Members
  • Posts

    216
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jokke

  1. I did one like this, but it is not so good with charcoal, when air comes from the bottom up.. for the use of charcoal you should give the air in by the side, more horizontal, or a bit down into the bed, now you blow the heat up into your face, since you have no means of controling the amount of air move the position of the pipe up three, four inches on the side with the holes pointing horizontal or a bit down the bed of charcoal will then be more "calm" and you will have a more even heat in the coal regards
  2. really nice, Niko so they have not yet given you a fiery beard? more pics pls. best regards
  3. well, it can be hardenend and tempered (makes it even easier to show the structure then) I have done it and many others before and after by the way, a couple of weeks of studies is not sufficient to write about "true wootz" there are those who read about the "wonders" of wootz and want it for their swords and knives and get strange thoughts... and then there are those who dive into the making and find out incredible things it does do things with you, probably a kind of magic chemistry in your mind as a pro in the field of addictions I can only warn you...
  4. "Grosses Kino" as we say here, regards!!! good and hard work, Ric, but I will stay in more simple "rusty stuff" pls show us the rest of the show
  5. people can try this site, too it is from Finnland and the guy there is really cool: http://www.wastikivi.fi/shop/index.php?sLang=en the material is mainly Phyllite and between 600 and 1000 mesh, they are good waterstones I have used them often and even my wife uses them in the kitchen nowadays
  6. very fine handle work, I like the curves you have used could you tell us what wood it is you have used? for a Puukko the form of the blade is quite modern and I think a more traditional line might have been more elegant in the sense of one third straight, two thirds going down to the edge best regards!
  7. I believe Ric asked me about von Schwarz and I tried to find something here from Germany: the only things I could find was the following: Cecil, Ritter von Schwarz has been mentioned in a book by Glasenab on the chemical knowledge of the hindus (or by PC Ray 1919?) he has also been mentioned in: Internationaler Binnenschiffahrts-Congress in Paris 1892 Heft 12 Cecil Ritter von Schwarz: Ueber die Eisen- und Stahl-Industrie in Ostindien (on the iron and steel industry in east india) someone is selling a book where the article is in, but it is 158€ http://www.zvab.com/Zeitschrift-Oesterreichischen-Ingenieur--Architekten-Vereins-Vierundvierzigster-Jahrgang/151016345/buch I do not know if this up to date anymore though! his Family has probably lived in Hallein, Austria Ritter v. Schwarz-Straße 11, 5400 Hallein it is a street named after one of the family
  8. Jokke

    Rekke...

    welcome, nice works, I like the form of the blade and the scandy design you could give some more attention to the "space" between the iron and the beautiful wood of the handle, for sanding down the fitting side it might be helpfull if you glue some sanding paper to a straight surface so you can get a good control on best fitting I have a carpenter to make those pieces 10x20cm on some melamine resin best regards
  9. Moikka, or should I say "OHO", looks like it is getting more and more interesting to take a closer look at your shop in summer time, hope you do not mind my showing up from the side of the road, when the light is still good the ore looks good for a roast and a try for a smelt, finnish ore is low in sulfur and phosphor, too so count for good results I can only envy you for the stuff you "found" in the old shop it is great to keep those beauties alive pysy terävänä! nähdään
  10. >>"Suomi" is Finnish for "Finland"... the Sammi are an ethnic group in northern Scandanavia, with homelands in Finland, Norway, and I think even Karelia. << Well Christopher, good for a start Suomi is right and it should be Saami, take a look at: http://www.saamicouncil.net/?deptid=1116 and Puukko and the Saami people (not all of the Finns are Saami!*grin*) do have places to live in Finland, Sweden and Norway, but not in Karelia, as far as I know, it is way too south - I do not know about Saami living in Russia, though... as Mr. Cederqvist stated, there are a couple of books and lots of findings from Finland to take a good look at: Kivikirves ja Hopearisti, Otava, Helsinki, 1961 on Finnish findings from stoneage to medival art ("stoneax and silvercross") and the over 700 pages in Anssi Ruusuvuori's "Puukon Historia", Apali OY, Tampere, 2009 which is the probably most complex work on the theme of finnish Puukko's you can find, all in Finnish of course, "www.apali.fi", ISBN: 978-952-5026-93-1 best regards
  11. why don't you try a good carwax, give it a thin layer, polish it that should do the trick it is a hint I have gotten from Mr. Roselli from Finland
  12. yes, it is the C-Ox that reduces the Fe-O to Fe I had tried it in a very small crucible, heating the oolithe ore up to >1550°C for nearly three hours no visible effect besides very small Fe-beads in a baken cakelike mass no foaming but I did not set a half/half option with carbon material though that is why I decided to rather use a rennoven to reduce the ore to iron I hope to be able to discuss Janne's experience with him in end of June
  13. why would you want to do a direct reduction from ore in a crucible? too much energyloss, better to use iron/steel and carbon directly, just like Jeff wrote, the less alloys the better - if you want to come near to the original stuff but it sounds like an interesting attempt (big crucible it is!) good luck and have fun
  14. in our german forum has been a long discussion and many posts on using a strong instant coffee mixture, even over night it may be less stressing to the steel than vinegar there should be posts on this method around here also
  15. hmm, powerhammer marks the bars and it looks like laddering so the thougt that the way of hammering the bar in different ways without using any grinding of grooves does lead, or may lead to different moirees even the form of the used hammer head can make the difference then this is very interesting, Niko hope we will be able to talk about it
  16. Moi, so you used grinding for getting more "moiree", like in the ladder pattern at least this is how it looks like to me any special x's or forms for the grinding on the raw bar? or did you use a chissel, which would be nearer to the original way of making a ladder pattern I think the old persian smithes did not use a powergrinder hope to see more in summer heippa
  17. in Germany the making of tongs for the process needed is one of the first things an apprentice has to forge from some mild steel round stock and it is a good "practise" to get into forging I myself like Tomtongs (ready made) and the flat ones I made myself, the above mentioned ones look very good too, so I might switch for a try my next homemade tongs will be a pair of crucible tongs to lift the hot crucible out of the oven, for that I will reform a pair that I shot at the*bay for low to my needs... but take a look here: http://members.vol.at/schmiede/feuerzange.htm it is easy, isn't it?!
  18. well, even with a video about all of the (different) way(s) I guess I would not have been much faster to come to the above mentioned XYZ, finding myself pondering about what went wrong, or why did it work this time as Jan wrote, you will have to go the whole journey by yourself or find someone who will accompany you for a while (might come to be of comfort) as my friend once told me, when I wrote to him that I made a device for melting in a crucible: Good, when you are done with melting, you will find that you just made 10% of the way... so: all of the stuff you need to know is in the net already I tried to collect some of it here: http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?t=86118&page=2 if you do not mind to read some German, the english links are in #33 and http://www.doorcountyforgeworks.com/Wootz.html take a good look you have to deal with how to get to the right temps, how to keep them, how and where to get the crucibles what incrediences to use (and what not!) and how to heat treat the stuff, once you get to it, how to forge it and not making it crumble (well it happened to me too!) and be ready that after forging it for over 50 cycles you suddenly find cracks, growing all over it will give you the creeps, Nihang Namastae
  19. >>What is the reason for limiting iron content in waterother than the wash looking a bit yellowish brown ?<< 1.)the iron and the mangan stick to the pipes and destroy them in due time, so there was much damage and high costs in municipal water suplies due to that. So the main reason is the corrosion. That is why there are laws to deal with iron and manganese in drinking water (with us germans it is always a question of money, you see *grin*) 2.)newer findings show that maganese has a tendency to stick to prions, so they do not "bind" naturally to copper and are formed in other ways (more compact or dense)than usual and can not be deleted biologically - it is discussed that it may be a cause for plaque and BSE in the brains of mammals (like us) as long as they use "greensands" for filtering, these can be used to get the iron in a smelt it has been done before iron from water nice idea. "me thinks"
  20. making crucible steel, forging and the making of fine blades into knives makes me a better psychotherapist, again and again

  21. well, did you ever think of contacting your local water supplier? Here in Germany we have very strict laws on how much iron is allowed in the water, so most of it is filtered out with special sands. The left overs are higher in Fe than most of the natural ores you will find, bind them with starch and try your smelt I will be doing one smelt hopefully in late summer and there are tons of the stuff lying around in the town I used to live (in another place there is manganese in the sand) since the stuff will be for free (the guy working there is a friend!), I am surely going to use it (slow sand filters are the oldest type of municipal water filtration in the US, too) go and talk with those guys
  22. I cannot say that I like the way you are heating up the forge with all the fibres inside without any coating. It could well be that you always have an amount of extra small fibres in the air due to the strong gasflow and the heat. A good coating could be of help! The small bed, probably made from a firebrick or crock? will not withstand Borax very long, so it would be much better to use a cutopen crucible (A6 is a good size)for a bottom inside the forge. The use of a good shaped flare will help rise the temps a lot -with the right ratio of gas-tip and pipe diameter, depending on the use of a venturi or airpressure system. In both of your forge/smelter the fire seems to go in straight (which should be a nono when you read the instructions of how to use a crucible (tangential flame only!) so why not in a more kind of a flow like a circle? Most of the heat for forging comes from ultrared heat inside the gasforge and not directly from the flare (which might be the coldest point in the system, as Niko once pointed out) by the way: what kind of foil did you use around the pipe? It is not aluminum is it?! even behind 5cm of insulation it might start to melt and ruin the coating... just my 5 cent Hi Sven, nice to see you here!
  23. I recommend to take a short look at the pics in the german forum about this topic: http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?t=98890 the young guy ran a smelt with bog ore and fused it with a piece of steel that Achim made in his huge tatara then he made a fine knife out of it, #16 in #14 is an analysys of the bog ore iron and on page two: http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?t=98890&page=2 are pics of the ready knife in #36 he got lots of good comments just like our friend from sweden here thumbs up!!!
  24. holymoly I like that stuff!!! aivan ihana just great by the looks of it
  25. pls give a hint whereabout you live, lad

×
×
  • Create New...