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Everything posted by Jokke

  1. reminds me very much of my last melts, Jan Hope you get the crucibles the way you want them. I do admire the energy you put into your research, for myself, I allow me to use the "shortstep" of modern clay-c or si materials - funny enough to end up with the same problems (from the looks of it) best regards
  2. Moi Janne! nice pics, thx! Tell us more about the forging of the nice present you made, was it from the above cake? How did you heat-treat it (diffusionheating?)- oh, by the way, I would grind first and then do the treating... nice that you are going ahead can not wait for summer to come ;-) terve
  3. You are right Ric, Ulrich Gerfin, wrote in the German Forum: "Interessanter ist, daß Nickel eben nicht oder kaum diffundiert. Gefügeaufnahmen von Damaststücken mit Reinnickel und 1.2842 und/ oder Feile zeigten bis zu einer Lagenzahl von ca. 1000 Nickellagen auf 5 mm keine Diffusion, bei noch höheren Lagenzahlen zerfaserte der Nickelanteil und löste sich zu einer Struktur ähnlich Stahlwolle auf." I'll try to rtanslate: >>it is interesting that Ni does not or hardly diffuse. Pictures of the structure of damaszene with pure Nickel and 1.2842 and/or file show up to 1000 layers of nickel in 5mm no diffusion, only at a higher amount of layers the nickel frayed and showed a structure like steelwool.<<
  4. Hi, you can use the above mentioned 15Ni20 or better 75Ni8 or 60Ni20 (for more C in the blade and better hardenability) or higher alloy steel, such as 56NiCrMoV7 will show very bright lines (a bit harder to forgeweld though) pure nickel foil will prevent the migration of C in the billet, up to over 400 layers
  5. Jan, thx for the reply, I did not want to say, "just put the thing back!". but: there might be a "trick" to do it in a way not to ruin the crucible, (although normally I do cut the leftovers into pieces when doing a remelt), it is to put enough glass (one that needs about 1000°C to melt) into the crucible so that the ingot does not touch the sides, when the crucible is re-heated, the melting glas will keep the ingot up long enough, so it too reaches temps and does not expand anymore, before it sinks into the molten glass to touch the bottom of the crucible. I was told that by Achim some time ago and used the method twice since, without braking the crucible (using clay-graphit ones)- I did not want to cut the ingot lacking the proper cutting-disc at the time and did not want to wait. Well, if I had pure cast iron I would first try to get a guess on the amount of C, before I would use it in a melt, for sure we do have more knowledge about the chemistry of steel, nowadays, so why not use it... best regards PS for the admins: would it be a new threat on: remelts of failures in wootz!?
  6. Hi Ric, Rereading this thread I again stumbled over this post. I should be coming over and clean up a bit, I thought at first and then I thought about all the help I got, when writing about melting desasters or cracking strips. I was told many times to simply reuse the stuff and remelt it. Achim told me that he does that with the material he gets from his smelts regularly, with good results. Maybe it is hard to remember the exact materials used, after leaving bad ingots on the floor - amount of C and other elements, hmm, I still did not build up my new "shop", but I would gladly use and remelt old stuff - it really does not get bad, if you grind off the rust. All smithes re-use old stuff, don't we? best regards
  7. remember that stainless normally means it has about 13% of chromium, so it will not be easy to find the steels to show more than different shades of the same colour you might as well try a piece of powdersteel from sweden, cut of a piece of a rod and make the ring which might be harder than you think I placed a pic in this german forum: http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?t=86118 post #30 the ring is made from swedish damasteel remember that after forging the material you also have to harden it, in CO2 or argon heating it up to 1010°C for 3-5Minutes without the gasses you have huge amounts of scale, chromiumoxides that are hell to grind off so, you want to try a piece?
  8. just like Stan wrote, there is lots of stuff on that topic in the net if you decide you might want to take a shortcut, send me a pm and I might be able to help you out a bit
  9. Hi Mark, pls be careful not to look into the "kiln" without eye-protection, I prefer the dark ones for welding, it can hurt the eyes as much as looking into the sun, remember there are up to 1680°C around the crucible and that means a lot of ultrared heat good that you have help with the furnace I needed two starts to get to a nearly perfect swirl! place some pics when you are done best regards
  10. Hi Mark, the main prob is with the furnace, the opening to the front lets too much energy pass out of it that you would need for melting the steel. The flame/flare needs to go around the crucible (take care that it goes tangentially around the crucible)and so it seems better to have a furnace designed for that (I can not use my smelter for the forging process, because it gets too hot!), so the idea of Jan will get you better results stick to it, you will love it best regards
  11. So you did give the "stuff" some more handforging, say with how many forging cycles? Just rolling out the steel can not produce any interesting banding the Fe3C needs much time and the right heat to start moving the knife looks good next time place it on a sheet of cloth, black or dark blue will make it easier to see more of the bladestructure best regards from Germany
  12. yep, normally they do that but not this time in the description of the lady as far as I understood they left the big chunk for looking at it (not good enough for swords?! as she puts it in the end) you can take a look here: http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?t=86207 where Achim Wirtz describes his version of a tatara he ran in Germany last year I had the oportunity to be there, when they opened the tatara and took out over 400kg of steel that mostly looked like this: http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?t=96993 and you can bet that this was used for blades!
  13. Quote: >>Hi Jan - the forge is quite simple ! and yet i'm abit baffled by the castable i used.. its working much better than the wool... or so it seems... i have to run the burner bellow 1psi or it easily will go above my safe forge temp for wootz.... this was contrary to when it was lined with wool, i had to have 2 to3 psi for same temp and much higher start up -just a guess, but i think the insulative property of wool is much higher but the heat storage is better in the castable the exact name on the product sheet is " Lite Wate 25/80 castable " with service temp of 2500F - but it does erode the bottom with sliding the ingot back n forth... so i'll eventually put a layer of 36 cement for a protective floor layer. - or i could use this new stuff i got... surebond ER mix 24... its a chrome oxide phos-bonded mortar made specifically to protect linings from metal or slag penetration.. -- strong stuff but expensive !!!! and it is Hulk green << I think that your forge has more ability to radiate in ultrared onto the ingot/steel now, while a mere woolcoating would absorb a lot of it first and you only have the torch of the flame for heating and very little of indirect heat (ultrared indirect heating). I mearly wondered why you let your flare blow directly upon the material, I prefer a more tangential flow inside the forge, making sure that it is harder to burn or overheat my steel. The inner lining of my forge is castable also and I can reach 1200°C easily, blowing at 1,2 "bar" , so I can keep it way below when working with wootz but a really nice box it is indeed *grin* I wonder about your 3 psi, which would be like 0.2 bar - are we talking about the same measuremant of gaspressure? so you did forge it on four sides like in #2 why not forge it back the other way, by hitting it on the outer sides that you left in peace? That might enhance the inner structure and the banding, too although I am not so sure, like Niko mentioned, that the Manganese will make the perlite matrix darker, when the Fe3C tends to line to the Mncarbides in the first place- doesn't it? and pls tell us about your way of etching the piece, too best whishes
  14. oikein hyvä, Niko! Good work - we have to get together in summer of next year to share experience on how to "control" this nice flow in your khyber blade, too bad all of my workspace is still in a pile and I have to do renovation first terveisiä! best whishes
  15. Jesus is right: >>7.9 to 27.9. The other 49 to 71????<< is probably the second page of their recordings putting in 0.8kg of ironsand (later 1kg!) to 1kg of charcoal each time (showing the totals in the next column) the lady described the procedure, but sometimes used wrong terms, like mentioning "steel" coming out the tatara, which was actually "slag", you can see from its flow how good the smelt is going on, reducing the Fe0x to Fex (with some C in it as well = steel), the temps described are rather low, though so they did not have a smith around who could have worked on that nice lumb of iron/steel too bad
  16. "casting" was really used many times, there are scandinavian re-makers of "wootz" that do use a casting method, usually producing a rather coarse and dendritical look on their smithed blades ingots that had the chance of a slow cooling produce different kinds of structures, depending on diffusion heat, number of heat-cycles, temperature range during and the way of forging best regards
  17. Sorry, but I am quite sure it is a question of the mentioned mill balls a guy tried to sell them here in Germany, "originally brought from India, from the sc.. cast" but these things never saw a crucible, not even from far. but they might bring out a structure when forged out, which is a not easy to do, mainly because of high chrome and other "impurities" I admit I have bought one, years ago, young and dumm, cheap enough, but not worth anything not even the experience... they sell them nowaday through the typical *bay and there seem to be "bunches" of them around with usually the following tags: "Antique-Indo-Persian-Mughal-Ottoman-Iranian-Wootz-Bulat-Faulad-Ingot-no-shamshir-" just look at them and you will find them different from any picture of a wootz-cake shown here in the forum or elsewhere so pls be carefull not to waste any money, time or heating on that stuff best regards by the way, wootz was not casted, but melted in a crucible, main sizes from 1-2kg, some people make smaller cakes, for single blades though, compare with the geogian way, described here in long...
  18. Moikka. welcome to the forum! So near Turkku you do your work, that would be a bit easier to come by in southern Finland than to visit Niko I will try to keep this in mind when visiting Family in Finland next time... pysy terävänä! (keep sharp!) best regards
  19. wow, you guys are doing it and I have to spend my time and energy elswhere - "it's a bummer" (that's what the GI's used to say, after they came to good old Germany from 'Nam - most of them with a stress disorder and drug probs!) nice blade and interesting heattreatment you should try some grooves on the next blade, Greg! hope to come back to smelting and forging in fall! regards!
  20. by the way: why do you use saltwater when polishing? Never heard of that before... salt will interfere with the etchant, too to me it does not sound like a good idea, how are you coming forward? any new tests? greetz! Jokke
  21. seems to have a finer structure than the one in the video why don't you try some x'ses or v's or big O's in the sense of cutting into the steel before forging it blank, maybe you get some nice bandings and changes in the structure, too saltwater for a fast quench is OK, but hard on the steel you have to oil it after washing off the grinding rests though.. regards Jokke
  22. Hi qiangluo, nice attempt that you made, so here are my remarks: for a 30 kg ingot with 1.5%C and Nb or V in it 1100°C (it is the beginning range for dissolving the carbides!)"soaking" may be too low for dissolving the carbides before forging cycles - when a 1.5kg egg needs 1 to 2 hours of dissolving time at nearly 1200°, how long did you try - just to make sure you really dissolve all of the inner matrix?! then about forging: it always seemed to me that forging wootz recommends forging of all sides, sometimes even forging a piece back into the "old" shape to improve the banding so if you give the big cake to machine handling and it is rolled, it looks more like streching the stuff in one! direction, so the result is poor banding (which can be seen better when hardened by the way) and is does look to me kind of coarse, too dendritic as my friend once said to me but all of us would probably love to get a present of 2-3kg of your testmaterials for further resmelting so when you find a facility that will do the forging and rolling in a more sophisticated way, or maybe you could give the ingot 60 - 80 heat treats before the process, you might receive more banding of the traditional kind... I find it most interesting what you are able to do in a big, industrial way, when I look at my small smelter instead so go ahead and of corse, about etching: try 5 to 10 % nitric in alcohol (nital) which works better when it is warm (not more than 45° pls!!!) but ferric works better when warmed too and my daughter always worries about me: use the good gloves, where is your eyeprotection?! - she is good to me and a chemist to be... best regards Jokke PS and try to come to the wootzsymposion in Gembloux (BKS knife show)in Belgium in November this year
  23. Hi Greg, did a fast grind up to 400 grit and a very fast Fe-cl etch on the blades the wootzblade is waterhardened, direktly out of the forge, after doing some normalysing, used the 60°C water besides the forge and it worked out well, no warping, straight as line the damsc blade is not hardened yet, it needs some warm oil thince I am into rebuilding an old house there is not much time for forgework but I will restart under much better conditions soon, I hope.... I just took out 2kg of old nails from the wooden floor that had been in the kitchen to be... maybe I should try a smelt with those, like Adski did - they are all from the 30ties and I got a present from one of the workers: a 1,5meter piece of an old railroad, stamped 1899 have to get back to work... best regards
  24. by the way, the blades are quite small, about 82mm of length both, 23 mm wide
  25. so here come the pics it is the last piece of wootz I made to a blade, the second is made from a wild damasc from a friend (Micha Schick from Essen) hope I made the pics small enough for everybody:
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