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Everything posted by Jokke

  1. Maybe we should ask the psycho-urologists er I mean nut doctors, you know what I mean.. well I don't but to me this gets hmm... off taste
  2. good, you have your own thread, Robert! If it did not come by aliens then it was written down by them or wispered into the ears of the great ancient seers and adepts of the east in the vedas (some of them are over 4000years old!) please read more of what people like Ann Feuerbach, Sherby, Wadsworth, Figel, Srinagan and the indian researchers, Tchernoff, Anossov and all the others who have done scientific research wrote upon and about the many issues connected to the theme of "santa claus" - invented by coke orlook at what Pendray wrote and did... keep your head up! and take a look at this: http://playground.sun.com/~vasya/Bulat-Achim-Stainless.html all the way down the page
  3. Niko: I did run two and the one above was the first one - indeed it was put into the "cold" furnace - I ran with a bigger pipe and tip at first, but then changed to my old system. the second smelt did not work that well though - it was probably not hot enough, it was a smaller crucible for one kg, filled with stripes from an old wagon wheel + graphit and the side of the crucible showed strong melting signs outside and it got quite thinn where the flame touched it, but I will put that 700gr cake (with its holes in the upper third)back into a bigger crucible to do a remelt with some more material... Jeff: I tried oh, Niko please write about the temps that you are now forging with - a guy from st Petersburg (a physician who's name I forgot) wrote to me that he forges his Bulat at 940°C and he seemed quite content - others have written that they use about 840-870 °C, Shelby once wrote that for achieving superflow it was better to go at about 640 - 740, than above 800° but I have to re-read that article... my first cakes I hammered below 800° and did need over 100, once even more than 160 heating cycles to get it into blades and that was about 1.3%C and just some other goodies in it. Achim W wrote to me that he uses higher temps on his chrome-cakes (~1,8%C and 15%Cr) meaning above 900° so if better forging temps control helps to get to the thing more easily, let us try... the friends I gave halves from my first cakes ruined them into cottagecheese and never wanted to use "that stuff" again
  4. Robert, please cut it out - as a pro I tell you that it is never of any good to talk for others, as long as you are not "elected" - and even then it is not easy, or if you had been asked to do it there was no first smith inventing wootz, that is a myth - and our view of someone getting rich because of a specail treatment does not apply here, wootz-melting was done by many in many villages, some producing the crucibles, others the premelted iron (the reduction of ironore in a crucible can be done, but takes too much time and much more energy! and the crucibles wpuld have to be too big for a firing with charcoal in a pit) this we know from many findings in many places in the east. And why should I give a part of the process to someone else?! Oh, pls do not answer to this, it is not a question, rather a statement... rich was maybe the guy who sold the sword with the gold and silver about it... so lets get back to the real topic: here are some pics from the cleaning of the last chrome-cake: the crumbles on one pic are what came out of the big cavation since the melting temps of a high-chrome-"king" is much lower than that of a more pure iron (1580°) and I find unmelted material inside the smelt, I am even more sure that the cavations and holes are most likely caused by too low temps in my furnace so this will be the point I will take more notice upon I was able to grind the holes away (over 50gr)- and now am quite sure that the "rest" is dense and fine still do not want to cut it in two, it is 1460gr. now, but who knows...
  5. Thx, Jeff! I am really enjoying this threat starting with mischieve we end up talking about philosophy and the dream of success! Wootz is a special material and it seems to touch souls through hard work and failure and that already for centuries wow, what a tradition Robert: when you are well and feeling better I could share a half of a modern cake with you - just that you can get the feel of it. You are blacksmithing, don't ya?!
  6. in the old times they fired the pits for at least three days to get to the wootz, the way they made the crucibles has been more than once described (please read the PhD from Ann Feuerbach and other related articles), I did collect many MB of texts from Shelby, Verhoeven, Skelton and many others from different countries, about Wootz and Pulat and Bulat (thx to Vasili Fursa for his sites in russian language!). And the way to make crucible steel looks like well known, with good descriptions of how to do it, everything is fine, until you do it by yourself, you try and try and fail and sometimes you reach a step to the goal: an ingot, fine and pure, no cast iron, forgeable, yes, forgeable, but much slower than you think. Achim once wrote to me, melting the thing is just a step on the way, most likely the easiest part of the way, I guess now... and look at the problems that we find at the beginning so Robert, you might be right about that there is something else about it maybe that comes when you find the steel you have been beating up in controlled temperature ranges starts to move under the hammer to a form you want and, after polishing and etching the surface (we do not do this with any ordinary steel, or do we?) we are striken by a swirling appearance - and we know that we did not fold that stuff, no, only beating upon it for 150 cycles or more... maybe it does have to do with some kind of believe the promise of microtubes that was once said to be found in a probe or the laughs inside, when we think about what the heck was I doing the last week with this patch of steel? the myth is there right there in the next crucible I am sure
  7. Moikka Niko, I have been using the same clay-graphit crucibles in the last year, they come from the czech rep. what I have noted, is that they are covered with a layer of molten clay after the run, also inside and they do get thinner, some ofthe material is slowly dropping to the inside chamber of the oven, too so that has to be cleaned up once in a while. With the gas/air ratio I am still trying to get it into a proportion that will generate a heat around 1600°C long enough for the material to smelt. My thoughts about the holes in the ingots is only partly about possible gases inside the crucible - I prefer to think that it is a heat problem. The charges might cool down too fast, when the temp is not steady enough and then form the holes. The way the holes are formed, with the crystalin-like structures in them and sometimes there was even still unmelted iron-sand inside! makes me think more in this way. Like Greg wrote, sometimes it is a problem of not having enough gas at home, that is why I try keep two bottles ready, when smelting This Hobby does bring me to all different kinds of solutions to smaller and bigger problems and more and more insight into physical conditions that I was never thinking about before. So at the moment, since I just bought new crucibles, I will stick to them - but have thought about bying Si-ones, need to find a good supplyer though first in the meantime I am concentrating more upon the venturi system and the insulation of the oven. It does for example make a difference how one covers the oven during the smelt. If you use a material that consumes, in form of intake, energy from the inside, it will hinder the smelt - meaning more time, more fuel needed the fluxes are not the prob and help little in coming to the melting point and keeping the system there long enough to ensure a slow cooldown that seems to me a crucial point to care about so I will take some closer looks to the mig-tip/pipe relations in the coming time but our new house will consume more time in the upcoming three month so I might no be able to work on the issue permanently best regards
  8. its ok, but I do not think, that the flux, in form of green glas has an effect on the smelt, the only incredient that might go into the smelt would be silicium - some of it would not be bad though. I might try to make a smelt without glas on top - but since so many smelters use glass to "protect" the process from air and it has been used so many times without any problems, it is not very likely that the probs I have come from the glass... to me it seems more like a prob from not enough heat and an uneven distribution of heat in the "OVEN" -this is what it looks like to me when I look at the latest ingot - the crucible has a little uneven stand,so one side of the ingot is thicker than the other and on that side there is the "impurity", material that was not fully melted, but covered by the glass - and maybe that is a part of the unwanted effect, that the glass does a little of insulation, too when I think about that melting the thing is just a little step on the way, I get drowsy... this is what I hope to find in the crucible:
  9. Craig: Sorry I am a bit late in answering! The colour does change indeed mostly into a few shades darker than before, as can be seen on the last two pictures. Since I use tungoil for most of my finishes it kind of fits the image to me, mabe I will combine the more darkened wood with a bright Finish burl-birch. I do not boil different woods in one charge though. So far I boiled up about 15 pieces from that burl (years ago I used the same method on a piece of pear-root with burls in it with good resuts)and all seem to be in a good shape - I did not think about putting them into a paper bag, like that "boiling" link says. The steamed wood does not seem to need that, since the wood does not take up any water in the highpressure steam system. It is the hot steam that brings the water inside to boiling temps and so it is driven out of the woods cells. It might well be that any places with tiny branches would show a tendency to fall out, when dried, but this burl does not have any "branch"-like structures in it, it is all swirls and nice lines. I am taking the stuff to the workplace of a friend and sand them on a sanding machine, then I will show more pics...
  10. Greg: the cavities appear to me to be both, some very clear, with needle like structures and some look dark. My current guess is a lack of efficient heat that goes over 1580°C long enough. My system does not seem to be very good, looking at the gas needed/to achieved temps ratio. Yesterday I tried to use a migtip with a slightly bigger inner diameter. But I ended up in a temp around 1380°C although I turned up the gasflow to over 12 liters/minute. Now I think that I used too much gas, because the first flame inside the kiln was pure blue - later the gas/air ratio was not ideal anymore, so I would have to insert more air for a hotter flare, but I want to keep it an airsuccing venturi system. Probably my migtipsize does not fit to the tube-diameter I used. After changing back to the smaller .8mm (I believe it should be .038-inch) tip and the lightly smaller tube size, my smelt came up to 1580°C and I guess that did the job an my 1511gr of a smelt with 1.5%C and 13%CR with some 0.2%Mo and .6% of tungsten. Nice moire on top, only one "bad" looking part that I will grind off. Jan: welcome to the club! I felt miserable about 90% of my smelts so far..., but I am working on it... Robert: The flux is no flux in the sense we use it when forging and firewelding - glas is used to protect like a flux from oxidation, here in the melt it helps to prevent that the carbon burns off and the steel does not burn, it bubbles on top of the smelting iron and should not have an effect upon it - modern gaskilns could do without, since there is a slight overcarb in the flame when using a ventury system (at least according to my humble 5 cents). I did a smelt without a glas coating and my friend liked that even more than a normal ingot with glas on it... by the way I tried to work with M.Porters book on Gas Burners for forges furnaces & kilns from 2004 here some pics of the latest smelt, I used a magnifier glas to get the bigger close-ups:
  11. well, the new smelts did not work as good as I had hoped I quess I will have to work on the ratio of gas-tip and pipe some more. I tried a 1mm tip into a 26mm diameter pipe, but it seems to work better in a 22mm, it does not get the temps above the 1595°C when I use the bigger pipe, so I want to use a tip with a very slight bigger opening in the thicker pipe, to give it a try. The cake that came out after a 2 hours smelt from 760gr material from an old wheel had holes under the top although my pyrometer showed above 1600°C after I repiped the system with the smaller pipe - and all of the material had sunken down into the 1kg crucible so I guess I am still simply working on the system and not on the real cakes (still don't want a single piece of the cake, but the whole f.. bakery, though!) what was good, where the little prills I found in the glas on top so something semmes to be right here some pics: the cutup cake was a smelt with material that came from a rennovensmelt from last year. I am still waiting to get the results from the analysis...
  12. I did send three slices to my new friends at Dörrenberg Edelstahl to get a analysis of the three pieces. After I got the results I will do three new smelts, to refine the material - I think it is not the way I really want it to be yet. Today I worked on my smelter and gave it a new bottom and the new crucibles have arrived also so everything is on its way
  13. Hi, since some people have written about how Sami people and others cook their fresh and wet woods in broth for hours here is a more modern way to do it: I used the steam cooker we got as a wedding present aeons ago: so put in three or four centimeters of water, pour in some salt (a tablespoonfull) stack the fresh cut pieces of wood into it, close the lid, use full power steam position cook for five to six hours let out the steam (be carefull, it is really hot! ) cool the lid with cold water before opening get the pieces out and gently poor away the "broth" if you want you can put the woodpieces into the oven (I used our ventilated on at 50°C) for another five hours and look what you've got: I have shown my latest burl in the Bloomery section http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=19980&pid=187303&st=0entry187303 in #10 here are the newest pics: light wood is still fresh and wet the darkened piece was in the cooker and I sanded it a bit and gave it a hint of oil to show the new look:
  14. The book that Niko mentioned has been published in 2009 at APALI OY in Tampere, Finland. The author is Anssi Ruusuvuori ("Anssi Rosehill" ) and the book is called: Puukon Historia (The History of Puukkos) it offers over 700 pages of information on the Finish Puukko and gives a fantastic overview on all of the "local" styles up to modern times. Sure it is not cheap, but worth the Euros - when you are able to read Finish but besides all fun: pages 192 to 677 are double pages on different Puukkos with detailed pictures and information and History of the pieces ,no need for exotic language knowledge there... it is full of inspiration to me, besides the over 2000 pics to adore a fantastic piece of art and work ISBN: 978-952-5026-93-1
  15. OK here some pics from the cut-up melts the holes inside both of the ingots are rather big and good to be seen I tried to give them a polish and an etch the last pic is from another smelt with "renn-iron", made from Oolithic ore with about 26% of iron, I did not put extra carbon into the crucible all of the stuff will be remelted as soon as the new crucibles arrive and I am trying to find help getting an anylysys of the three samples I did cut away small pieces already the brownish pics where made through a looking glas, maybe 4 or 6 time + :
  16. Klaas wrote: Nice looking blade. Tell me, why do you want longer melting times? what is the theory behind that? I have heard about Anosov and his long meltings, but I don't get why. If the metal is molten it is molten, right? Well, one thing is: the longer the Iron is very hot or in liquid phase it is able to take up more carbon! One idea is also that by using longer melting times, the amount of carbon in the smelt does "mingle" better unifomely into the smelt and that might have a positive influence on the inner structure of the bulat/wootz. Think of it as in percentage of Fe3-C's in the charge, the more ironcarbides in the melt, the more of them are forming along the Va-carbides, or manganese or niob or whatever you use it is good to look at the iron-carbon phase, where you can see the percentage of Ferro-carbides increase with the amount of C in the melt - it will be at around 30volume-% when there is 2% of Carbon in the steel and only 20 volume% when there is 1,3%C. and you will need less energy to keep the steel in the melting phase, since the amount of C in it decreases the line where the smelt starts there are a couple of interesting points right there and then you have the glas/slag on top, reacting also taking up "impurities" from the smelt... hmm.. there might be more about it
  17. yep, it is tannin based, very much concentrated, but no clear definition on the bottle, so it is try and error again to find the right "solution" I end up with ferric, too but have to find the righ potion/water relation and it seems to be relavant how high the carbon content is in the smelt (percentage of Fe3C, if 20 or 30 % makes a difference)
  18. oh sure, I get the Blues sometimes and put on some old songs by Joni Mitchell I used a different charge on the second melt, mostly pieces of files with 1.3 C and rest of old smelt that was cut in pieces. So the charge (around 2kg) was smoother in the end of the smelt, but I did use a rather thick rod, like in the first smelt - that I did not use before, so that can explain a bit, because it surely took away lots of energy. But the Top of the second smelt looked so smooth that I was relaxed and quite sure "that is better". So yeterday I did cut them both open, to find big holes inside of both of the ingots. The rest looks fine and dense, I started to smoothen the surface so that I will be able to polish it this evening - after coming home from the clinic- then I will give them an etch, to see more of the inner structure I promise to show pics my friend (we met in his workspace where we made the smelter) had the idea to use maybe just 500gr for one smelt, not 1kg or 2 - to get faster and probably better results (like the geogian way - with 300gr?!) but I still kind of like the idea of making BIG cookies The hint with the crucible I find interesting, because I used an elderly clay-graphite crucible, made in Cech-republik, (they have good prices ) the sides where very thinn in the second smelt and it did look a bit porous, so there could have been some reaction with the fumes around it (by the way, it got stuck to the furnace wall, glaced to it, so I had to break it anyways)and it was very glazed on the upper inside, too it did not look very dense anymore and I had used it four or five times, so... I will be getting new crucibles soon, to get on with it
  19. I tried an etch with a solution made from of oak-concentrate (as used for aquarium to reduce PH of water)on an older blade. It seems to work as well, but I saw many black dots very fast (maybe not enough water?) and a lot of bubbles coming up. So it seemed very aggressiv still. Did not take pics, but since the stuff can be bought in special shops for aquaristics it might be interesting to start a line of tests, I will post again when I have better results...
  20. the new smelt looks much the same, although it was in the heat longer and there was no "ironsand" in it. It nearly burned my last crucible, though - it kind of stuck to the wall of my furnace and the grog-firebrick melted at the top so there was plenty of heat... I will cut the two open in the coming days and show the pics later feels like real frustration at the moment...
  21. the original link seems to have been taken away, I hope many of you where able to get to the theses before that happened. It looked like to me to be a good deal of information on bulat/wootz
  22. yep, that is what I think, too the burls are still wet though, want to cut them to pieces in the next weeks I was promised help (big bandsaw!) by a friend at work thought about putting some pieces wet into PEG but have to work that out first... just found out that I nearly burned my last crucible in the process, it is stuck to the furnace wall and I will have to break it into pieces tomorrow when I get out the (hopefully sane) ingot the walls are very thin and even the pieces of firebrick (crog?!) that I had put on top of the furnace are a bit melted on the fireside, so there was enough heat for sure
  23. yep, that could well be, although I thought that there had been enough heat at the end. Achim wrote me that he had the same probs from using material that was not enough "premelted" and had to be reduced first in the crucible, producing CO-2 and or CO-x. I did just run a second smelt, that was really more still and looked smooth at the end of the go, my pyrometer said >1600°C and went tilt, so there was enough heat for sure. But in the meanwhile I worked on these burles of robinia (pseudoakazia) and hope that it might be a good sign or omen for the upcoming "king" - since the world did not end today, although another vulcano in Island did break out... no earthquakes here in Germany, I am going to go on with what I do:
  24. I am just starting a new smelt, just to cope with my frustration could not put this puk into the oven, would have to cut it up into pieces first and the big crucible I have, for over 5kg loads is too big for my furnace... too bad so tomorrow I will know more
  25. nice blade, looks rather dendritic still like you did not go through many cycles (under 60?) and did you roast it before forging? There is potential in the steel, if you have some left... best regards
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