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Everything posted by Jokke

  1. yesterday I ran a smelt with 500gr of swedish Hogänäs ironsand with graphitpowder ratio to get 1.8%C und a bit over a kg of old smelt from lastyears leftovers.On top some white and green glas. The smelt went good, as far as I could follow it, the glas bubbled like crazy - so I took some of it away with a rod. After two hours the smelt was "through", I could feel no compact pieces in the smelt with the rod and was able to stirr smoothly. I changed the gas bottle for my propane smelter (home made venturi system) and let it run for another 15 min to shut it down slowly, 5 minutes to 0. And then leaving the graphit crucible to cool in the furnace. This morning there was not enough glas (dark brown and black) to cover all of the ingot - the top looked rather good - it came out well, 1680gr, but the sides are full of cavernes and in the bottom there is a hole of about 2cm deep. And the only explanation I have, is that the ironsand was "rusted" a bit and reacted with the carbon to CO-2, to build up bubbles, but astonishing enough even after two hours of smelting. did not have the opportunity to look at the C-content of the ingot - but there are no clear signs of dendrites, only at the outer lines of the holes, needle like... here some pics:
  2. Hi I tried to invert the pics used german page for it: http://bildbearbeitung.gruso.de/ it will give you the opportunity to work on one pic online4free look for yourselves: best regards
  3. Moi Niko, thx! I wanted to know about the microscope that you used to get the pics, I do not like the nital etch so much any more maybe mine is too old... moikka
  4. I met a guy here in Germany who collects old pieces of Wootz and he told me of his experiences with etching with Coke. I was very astinished, but he smiled and said that the phosphorous acid in it, will when left in there for a couple of hours - he said over night!?- will do the job and no harm on the blade. I have not yet tried it, but I will and put up some pics then
  5. nice pics, thanks for showing the lines are good to be seen the third pic with 10my is very interesting, it seems like there is a fine "spread" of cementite in the dark matrix probably ferric etchant, isn't it?! what kind of magnifier did you use to get it digital? terveisiä
  6. might be it is like that because it is the last piece of steel dropping out of the smelt, the rest, just before the alumina comes out might be spongy regards
  7. yep, you are right, there is sometimes a piece of steel cut off as you describe, like a little rod that should be OK to make a small blade, hypoeutectoid steel but good to harden
  8. why would you want to hammer on aluminum oxide? That is this black stuff, formed like a rod, because it is the last thing to come out when you weld with thermite. The ends of the welding steel are grinded away, so rests are hard to find... The steel coming out might be more interesting, for the railways it should be 0.5 - 0.7 % C, if it is best quality there will be some Vanadium in it, too, at least here in Germany. Makes great hot-chissels if you do want to make ceramics, there are easier ways to get Al-O2 these rods are hard as hell, being burned by over 3000°C!!! So have fun... regards from Germany
  9. Citation, Greg wrote: >>...Ivan usta sell his knives on ebay... funny, the patterns on them were very plain ... if he had such command over wootz, why would he sell the plain stuff ??? also.. I find anyone that says they have hundereds of ingots under their hammer is very likely telling a very nice fishing story... for myself i think i was really into wootz around 2002 (or at least thats when i put something provable on the net)... and there was next to no one making the steel at the time on the forums.. I believe Ric F, Achim w, Jeff P were around at that time .. with the first two making the steel before that ( not sure on Jeff but it wouldn't surprise me ) - i also found the write up by Achim on CKD about his first wootz..<< the writings I found had been shown here: http://playground.sun.com/~vasya/Bulat-Achim.html and one could mention that Vasily Fursa had shown ways of making Bulat on these pages years ago and was always open to give a helping hand and advice maybe you, Greg, could send me Achims writings on his first wootz, if it is not the above mentioned article mister K from Russia is selling the miraculous material that people seem to need, together with a special Diploma from the New Rising Star that is all Ok, like selling the "sharpest knives of the world" (an "ad" on TV about the guy)for fantastic prices: http://www.nesmuk.de/englisch/kollektion_outdoormesser.php I know the man, he lives next door, so to say - they are just making their living although it sounds like they are selling also Alchemy and ointments against and for everything to me... best regards
  10. Jep, it does look good, Niko maidenhairsteel - straight lines maybe it is good not to go over 500 layers after that there is not very much to be seen about the structure do you have an idea on the actual amount of C, after five folds you should have a kind of monosteel? ai niin, sorry, emme tule suomeen tänä vuona, ostimme just talon!!! hope to see more terveisiä
  11. here some pics from the hardened blades:
  12. here are the results of the analyses of my last wotz-workout, which shows in two blades, done with the "optischer Emissionsspektrometer (OES)>>Optical Emission Spectrometer<< at the University of Duisburg-Essen": C 1.27% Si 0.709% Mn 0.204% Cr 0.11% Cu 0.112% P 0.0353% S 0.056% Ni 0.081% Co 0.0217% Pb, Mo,W, V, Ti, Nb, Al and Mo < 0.00% (thanks to Micha and his friend there!) I am still working on the two blades, polishing and sharpening them before the final etch so pics will come up later best wishes!
  13. Hi Niko, the flow and change of the pattern near the tips came out while forging the blades thinner and forming the tips. You can actually see, that I was bending the material upwards to make the tip. I was astonished to see that happen. I did not grind any marks for laddering, though... It is material from half of an ingot, the other half was wasted by a friend (waiting to be remelted one day), but it is the outer ends of the bar that I forged, in the inner part a long kind of gap started to show, so I cut it into four pieces, but only two are good enough for blades I will do puukkostyle ones again German wootz into Finish puukkostyle blades sounds good to me...
  14. Hello Greg, I do multiple etches, but I hink that my ferric is too "thick", will have to dilute it a bit more - for the etch after hardening I will use the oxalic acid as a wipe on the etch with Nital did not show the best results in my last blades,so i will switch and. no, I do not have any sodium metabisulphide, never tried so far, why do you ask?! and yes, I know that temps make a big difference - but I have to listen to my daughter who studies chemics she makes me be aware of all the rules one has to follow, using acids thx, I do hope for a change in colour and visibility of the pattern in the bar before forging into bladeform it looked very small, moskitolike I am still waiting for the final results of the material test that a friend did for me, so far he simply told me about the amount of C, and small amounts, way under 1% of cr, si and tungsten(? not sure about that) @Niko: did you do some more forging? I hope to get to my friends forge tomorrow evening... bye
  15. Hi Jan, from the same cake, very low in alloys, I am still waiting for the results, what I know is the amount of C which is 1.3% (a lot lower than I thought it was) all etches done with Fe-3-Cl, pieces are not hardened have not been forging since last Wednesday, might do so again tomorrow... best wishes
  16. just made some pics, to show what I mean the darker one is the piece I forged on wednesday, both of wootz with 1.3%C the third pic shows how the bar looked like before the last forging (eleven cycles more) hope you do not mind me using your space here, Niko they are about 2.5cm wide, 15 long and 5mm thick by the way, they are really highcycled, over 160 heat cycles, so I could not say, that more cycles do bring a "better" pattern here the same stuff before the last 11 cycles: best wishes
  17. näyttää ihanalta! tulin mustis looks great, made me jealous my last piece shows much much smaller and finer lines, will do some more forging tomorrow respect!!!
  18. nice pattern, Niko - oikein hyvää!!! give us some data about the piece, pls... best wishes
  19. Jokke

    new puukko

    here are some pics from the sheet, leather is from Tandy, 3mm , blackened "inlay" for the blade made from leather, the sheet is made from one piece, handsewn when wet
  20. Jokke

    new puukko

    Sorry about the size of the pics, just changed them, seems better now I'll post the sheet when it is done greetz'
  21. Jokke

    new puukko

    wanted to show a piece of mine 20cm overall length, blade is 9.7cm damast is made by Markus Balbach, Germany, I reforged it and did the heattreatment, too. The handle starts with a piece of damasteel, eyedamaststyle, mooshorn from Finland, red fiber and a nice piece of bog oak from the river Elbe in Germany, finished up to P1500, with a hint of tung oil I have put some more fotos on the german "messerforum.net": http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?t=96204 Jokke
  22. I tried to put in a pic for illustration: but it did not work, sorry! here is anotherlink that should work: http://www.tardy.de/1223.html just take a look at the little pic with the torsion, when you go there with the mouse, do not click, just watch... there used to be a little app on the german site, but the link is not working anymore, it showed the looks of pattern twists with different amount of layers.. sorry, I'll try to find it again...
  23. @Adski, about hardening, 850° might be a little high for high alloys-steel, I found 820-830° was good for cutting glas, and 200° for one hour then in lukewarm water should do a good job nice blade!
  24. Moi Niko, I agree that birchcharcoal in the forge is nicer in burning, but when it comes to rennfurnaces, pine should be better - we had used beech (pyökki) in our oven and it was expensiv, so I think making your own is a good idea - saw a film about an old guy in Lapland making pitch (resin - terva) and charcoal, he simply used an old barrel (upside down) stuffed it with pine, build a fire around it and let that burn down, it made a bucket of pitch and that barrel of nice looking charcoal, maybe that's an idea if I come by car, we'll see what is possible heippa
  25. @ Jan, sorry, but I do not know whether Achim Wirtz has made some Wootz with this charge,(most of it went to the guy from tchecheslowakia who makes excellent swords from tamahagane, Pavel Rihacek) but Achim uses his own "rennofen"-smelted material quite often. By the way, he sells steel, too and one of my favorite is his C145 SC, superclean stuff made for him here in Germany I am going to use the iron we smelted at Kleinenbremen as soon as spring has arrived again, one try came up with lots of little holes and cracks in it, probably due to the sulfur-content. My friend asked me for a hypoeutectoid bladematerial to be able to make a knife with ore and steel from his homeregion (5 miles away!)- he does not love wootz, it gave him the creeps trying to forge it and I want to make some wootzystuff from the rest. @ Niko, mihin sä menet ulkomaahan, saadan uutta ideoita?! (where does he go to get new ideas-I am curious!) pine is Finish Mänty - say, do you use pine for the charcoal? It should be easily available in Finland, birch should not be as good?! And 40 kg is a big hump of iron and steel- I would like to see your backyard I should come over in summertime to see what a wootzsmelt with it would look like, if you ever feel like having "foreign" visitors (juu ne ulkolaiset ) terveiset! (4all friends. terveisiä is Finish for Greetings and best wishes, the form I use here is simply: greetzes! Moi or Moikka is a usual form to say Hi and funny enough Goodbye also - I love it!)
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