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About blacklionknives

  • Birthday 02/16/1971

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  • Gender
  • Location
    new ed(w)inburgh aka. vancouver washington usa
  • Interests
    family, fidelity, forging, farming, fencing,

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  1. thats awesome. i have a chunk that looks like a hammer head w. out a handle hole actually. thats been in back of my mind. and the first forge weld ever was on 2 mini axe attempts. it looks nothing like an axe head.lol. but the forge weld aha moment occurred. enlightenment w rebar...yes, its true i still need to make chisles and punches too. actually some of the stuff is quite brittle/hard on testing. one day i will post a tsuba im making out of welded chunks of scrap angle i torched/scarfed off of a wall at work and my coworkers thought i was nuts for saving... in an age of high tech steel, i gotta feel like im in the darkages now and again, like im finding chunks of rusting rock and sneaking them back to my cave...
  2. right on Stephen thanks. 5160 is more than i need in fact it wont give me a hamon and thats just not nippon-esque but, its the best ive got and it is a forgiving material. and i want to make a tsuba but dont have a blade to put it on.haha. i guess i'll just put it in a box. im just stockpiling grey matter for now. very helpful, thanks.
  3. hey kyle, posted abouve is a youtube link for my forge. much bigger than i need for blades. I even heated a 29" sword blade to critical and got a great quench. anyways. the forge was a 9.25" piece of 6" well casing. kao wool. a home made ventury jet. it rocks! I took a 16 hr blacksmith class(made tongues and punches firdt thing too btw...) and the following weekend i went back to the smith and he helped me/ built for me the whole thing. he is a master blacksmith(don kemper long time knife associate of guru wayne goddard from eugene oregon) and has studied this alot. im just saying every thing ive done has been TOTALLY aided by people who have way more experience than i may ever have. nothing about this forge is my idea. but if you want more details, let me know...number 70 drill bit for the gas jet in the 1/4" line, 1 1/4"-34" or 1 1/2"-1" bell reducer for the ventury jet, and 6 inches of 3/4 or 1" pipe and viola, it mixes the propane and air(read oxy) as needed. a 0-60 psi regulator and since the video i have wrapped the ventury thing w aluminum foil to choke down the air and dude, i melt copper(1984 deg. f.) in fact it gets so hot, the sword blade i quenced was done on a 20 degree winter day: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=18243&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1 anyways, if you r gonna make cutley/weapons, you are definately in the right place. seriously ask any question you can come up with and blade masters w firey beards from all over the globe and thoroughout the history of the world will answer. it always takes me a while to understand though edwin
  4. It generally takes more heat control than can be reliably had from a gas forge, even with something as simple as 1095. This is one of the reasons that I've decided to stop using 52100. There is not as much of a problem with mildly hypereutectic steel such as 1084. Doug thanks doug, Im looking forward to some iron bloomed homemade stuff one day, thats pretty simple,eh?, to heat treat that is ,not to make. any thoughts on 5160 or aldo's 1075? and thanks everyone. I appreciate all these observations and experiences...
  5. is this layered? what causes the pattern in the blade, the heat treatment?
  6. Excellent, I will go w the 1075 in the future when i get down the forging and shaping, and move on to hamon attempts. Also, when you guys are talking 1075, are you having in mind homogenous or little pieces welded and folded... which brings me back to another old question: will i produce grain pattern or will the layers not be visible... not to change the subject i mean, the layers of carbon burned out of steel surface on each fold will create iron/steel layer contrast, right
  7. thanks all, im gonna buy steel? ...but do have these little strips of possibly a36, and all this rebar...to experiment with... nevermind, i should just spend 15$. seriously, thanks so much. Edwin
  8. so, if i go w 1075, will that harden enough for a sword, or would i want to laminate it w 1095 or something else. and what does aldo mean when he says: "...1095 is excellent for forging, yet proves a little more difficult to heat treat for some makers as it is hyper-eutectoid. Once you have mastered heat treating 1095, excellent effects and hamons can be created.
  9. new jersey??? finding it was like hunting for aa albino ninja in a red n white srtriped sweater. then when i found it i felt like i was sittin round a camp fire in a pace pacante sauce commercial... seriously thamks. i have a cold and its late ...what is a pain if your trying to dif harden, 5160?
  10. If I make a katana blade w 5160 and dont try to differentially heat treat, what kind of curve will I want before quenching? Clearification? Does clay tempering cause most or all of curve? If so, and I am not clay tempering I need to pre curve Right!?
  11. I have a ton of leaf springs and have thought of trying to produce hamon on blades but thought I would need to get steel w less cromium and manganese etc.,... Hello all, on this link there is a discussion of hamon on en45/5160: http://www.swordforum.com/forums/showthread.php?90877-Hada-in-EN45-Springsteel If I recall, I have heard many on dfogg's site say it is not possible. Am I missing something? I have only read about clay and thought I would ask before I trouble myself w wasting time I dont have to spare. Thanks so much, Edwin
  12. Amazing info, thank you all so very much. This is quite a learning curve. I see that some makers do all phases from start to finish as apposed to the traditional method of multiple crafters... I am definitely in the first category and find it enjoyable to do all phases. Im in the research phase right now. Kind of stuck on the blade forging at the moment and thought it would be fun to work on the artistic side of tsuba's...however, in making the tsuba, do i need the blade fisrt to know what the shape and size of the nakago ana need be to punch it in tsuba, or can a make a general sized hole and file to fit later... actually i am thinking of making some decorative ones as gifts, and if am asked, "can you put this on my sword", how realistic that may be? again thanks so much for your time and diligence in experience for your insite. Edwin
  13. Hello blade masters what are the holes in a tsuba for? are they to tie the sword into the scabbard? ...slows down the draw i would think...perhaps for long horse rides? kozuku hitsu ana vs kogai hitsu ana? specifically why are they shaped different, and what side are they on:driver side or passenger...as in american cars/swords and whats the udenuki ana? also is the design artwork, if any, on the blade side or handle side? i got my info from: http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&safe=off&biw=1220&bih=675&tbm=isch&tbnid=qjoxsChzIamTUM:&imgrefurl=http://kodogunosekai.com/tsuba-information/&docid=FB0c82lukbDxMM&imgurl=http://richardturner.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/tsuba-info.jpg%253Fw%253D500%2526h%253D295&w=500&h=295&ei=RvKRULWAL8j5igKIp4GIAQ&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=3&sig=110053292378000839365&page=1&tbnh=136&tbnw=246&start=0&ndsp=16&ved=1t:429,i:71&tx=181&ty=57 古甲冑師=armor smith...very cool!!! thanks much, (you all are a never ending source of appreciated info) Edwin
  14. looking at the boker kwaito, my guess is that if it has any historical antecedents they would be found in ainu knives rather than nipponese. thanks jake. what is ainu?
  15. amazing. do you have any pics pre-quence? I'm wondering if there was curve before. again, WOW!!! Edwin
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