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MSchneider last won the day on November 28 2016

MSchneider had the most liked content!

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    Leo, Indiana
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  1. Beautiful sword. Thanks for the pics and the tip about potassium permanganate. Now I have a new finish to try.
  2. Very nice! It has a really clean and balanced look to it. I'd be sad to see it go too.
  3. Wow that's just gorgeous! I love the explosion of the pattern.
  4. I love everything about this sword. It is clean and graceful in its lines and looks to be a brutally efficient cutter. I have a soft spot for the single edge sword types and it is nice to see somebody doing one.
  5. I recently purchased one from Buckeye Engraving and was very pleased with the service and the quality of the stamp. http://www.buckeyeengraving.com/
  6. Thanks for all the comments! Aldo- I'm really digging the 80CRV2. I found I have to go a little higher on the austenitizing temp vs 5160 but it heat treats easy and is super tough. I plan to keep using it, especially for swords. Thanks for providing it. Dave- I had originally thought about weathering the hilt components to make the silver really pop, but once it was polished it looked so cool in the hand shiny I decided to stop there. By the way, the silver panels are roller printed. I etch up press plates and roll then through the mill. It gives a different look than direct et
  7. It's been a while since I've completed anything worthy of sharing but I've managed to recently finish up this Type O sword. The blade is forged from 80CRV2 and is 29.5" in length. It is just over 2" wide at the hilt and has a CoG of 5". The hilt is mild steel inset with sterling silver panels and twisted copper and silver wire. It was a challenging piece but overall I'm really pleased with the finished sword. Let me know what you think. Thanks, Mark
  8. I recently decided to try making some cast fuller sanding blocks and I thought I’d share how I went about it. I’m really pleased with how well they work. PVC pipe is measured in ID and lines up nicely with the wheel sizes I generally use for fullers. I made a 1.5”, 2” and 3” block using the corresponding PVC pipe sizes. For the casting material I used Smooth-Cast 300. It is a 1:1 casting resin with a finished Shore hardness of 70. It is inexpensive, mixes easily and sets up quickly. I purchased it from Amazon: https://goo.gl/Wha5ga. I prepped the PVC by cutting it
  9. That looks great! Nice even lines, thanks for sharing. How may layers were your core bars?
  10. Yeah the 450 BTU/cu in is bandied about all over the web. (ABANA, Iforge, Ron Reil etc) I'm not sure how that number was arrived at though. You make an excellent point. I had not considered the fact that a lot of forges run pretty open in the front and/or back whereas mine has pretty small openings. That plus 3" of insulation probably account for the performance. There may also be some variance in the BTUs actually being generated. I'll have to time the gas consumption and figure out what it is actually putting out. Thanks!
  11. All of my previous forges have been powered by homemade blown burners. I’ve always sized them so that they adhere to the rule of thumb 450 BTU/Cubic Inch of chamber size. I’ve never had a problem welding or forging even large billets. On a whim I decided to give an atmospheric burner a try. I purchased a 1” T-Rex burner and built a new forge. The chamber size is about 450 Cubic inches and fits within the guidelines Rex gives for burner sizing. Here’s the question…even without ITC the forge easily goes to 2,200 F at only 10 psi. According to the BTU chart Rex provides that puts th
  12. Thanks for the update and that is an awesome score on the anvil. Congrats!
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