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Everything posted by MSchneider

  1. Beautiful sword. Thanks for the pics and the tip about potassium permanganate. Now I have a new finish to try.
  2. Very nice! It has a really clean and balanced look to it. I'd be sad to see it go too.
  3. Wow that's just gorgeous! I love the explosion of the pattern.
  4. I love everything about this sword. It is clean and graceful in its lines and looks to be a brutally efficient cutter. I have a soft spot for the single edge sword types and it is nice to see somebody doing one.
  5. I recently purchased one from Buckeye Engraving and was very pleased with the service and the quality of the stamp. http://www.buckeyeengraving.com/
  6. Thanks for all the comments! Aldo- I'm really digging the 80CRV2. I found I have to go a little higher on the austenitizing temp vs 5160 but it heat treats easy and is super tough. I plan to keep using it, especially for swords. Thanks for providing it. Dave- I had originally thought about weathering the hilt components to make the silver really pop, but once it was polished it looked so cool in the hand shiny I decided to stop there. By the way, the silver panels are roller printed. I etch up press plates and roll then through the mill. It gives a different look than direct et
  7. It's been a while since I've completed anything worthy of sharing but I've managed to recently finish up this Type O sword. The blade is forged from 80CRV2 and is 29.5" in length. It is just over 2" wide at the hilt and has a CoG of 5". The hilt is mild steel inset with sterling silver panels and twisted copper and silver wire. It was a challenging piece but overall I'm really pleased with the finished sword. Let me know what you think. Thanks, Mark
  8. I recently decided to try making some cast fuller sanding blocks and I thought I’d share how I went about it. I’m really pleased with how well they work. PVC pipe is measured in ID and lines up nicely with the wheel sizes I generally use for fullers. I made a 1.5”, 2” and 3” block using the corresponding PVC pipe sizes. For the casting material I used Smooth-Cast 300. It is a 1:1 casting resin with a finished Shore hardness of 70. It is inexpensive, mixes easily and sets up quickly. I purchased it from Amazon: https://goo.gl/Wha5ga. I prepped the PVC by cutting it
  9. That looks great! Nice even lines, thanks for sharing. How may layers were your core bars?
  10. Yeah the 450 BTU/cu in is bandied about all over the web. (ABANA, Iforge, Ron Reil etc) I'm not sure how that number was arrived at though. You make an excellent point. I had not considered the fact that a lot of forges run pretty open in the front and/or back whereas mine has pretty small openings. That plus 3" of insulation probably account for the performance. There may also be some variance in the BTUs actually being generated. I'll have to time the gas consumption and figure out what it is actually putting out. Thanks!
  11. All of my previous forges have been powered by homemade blown burners. I’ve always sized them so that they adhere to the rule of thumb 450 BTU/Cubic Inch of chamber size. I’ve never had a problem welding or forging even large billets. On a whim I decided to give an atmospheric burner a try. I purchased a 1” T-Rex burner and built a new forge. The chamber size is about 450 Cubic inches and fits within the guidelines Rex gives for burner sizing. Here’s the question…even without ITC the forge easily goes to 2,200 F at only 10 psi. According to the BTU chart Rex provides that puts th
  12. Thanks for the update and that is an awesome score on the anvil. Congrats!
  13. Thanks again for all the kind comments! I really like the planished look as well. I didn't use it here because it wasn't the right look for this piece but I think I will play with that in the future.
  14. Oh man I bet that is one heck of a cleaver! I love it, very clean and refined.
  15. Very nice work! I really like the last one and the engraving.
  16. Looking great! Will you set your distal taper when you grind your flats or are you going to do it first? Thanks, Mark
  17. Thanks everybody! The Grip is a wood core bound in cord and wrapped in leather. It has a bit of shine to it in the photo from the leather conditioner I use. It is a home made paste of beeswax and either mineral oil or walnut oil. For the inlay: First I engraved closely spaced parallel lines and undercut. Then I hammered the wire into the grooves, trimming off flush. Once all the wires were in place I planished the surface to bring the wire flush to each other. From there it could be filed, sanded and polished. Thanks, Mark
  18. I finished this sword earlier in the summer but have just now gotten around to photographing it. It is a Petersen type L with an alternating inlay of copper and sterling silver wire. The blade is forged from 5160 and the scabbard wood is cherry. As always I welcome any comments and criticisms. Thanks! Mark
  19. Just one more question about the size...is the 8x8x12 dimension before or after the insulation? If it is before then you are going to end up with 6x6 right? The reason I ask is that 1" if insulation is awfully thin. At a minimum I'd go 2". If your finished interior size is currently really 8x8 then I'd add another layer of insulation. You will be glad in the long run that you did. It will easily pay for itself in fuel efficiency and help you to attain higher heat with your burner. On thing I have seen with venturi burners is that first you need enough opening so as to not create bac
  20. Beautiful work! Is the pommel actually hollow or did you just grind a recess for the peened tang? If it is hollow all the way up, how did you go about making it? Thanks! Mark
  21. I have never done any 3D printing but it is something I am looking at getting started in and I am curious about the filament. If you are going to be directly burning out the 3D printed item why did you chose ABS over PLA or something like Moldlay? It seems like those would be easier and cleaner to burn out? Thanks, Mark
  22. Thanks for all the information and the detailed analysis of that piece! I am very interested in the single edge sword and I'm curious if you have any ideas where I could find information about some of the high status or pattern welded pieces? I know of the one pattern welded example depicted in Ian Peirce's book, but that's it. I'd love to see some of the others.
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