Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

  1. Thank you for the replies! Sorry about the lack of details. The blade was a 15 inch OAL kukri kinda style blade. The width if the blade was 1 ½ inches thick. The thickness was about 4mm /1/8th inch. I destroyed the blade remains experimenting this weekend. But here is a pic before it was reshaped. The blade was normalized hardened and tempered once prior to this HT. I tested it by chopping a few 2X4s up, a few chops on some mild steel,(dinged the blade edge but not much) and throwing it flat on the ground.. I did not have the courage to bend past 25degrees though. I had decided that the handle and blade shape was wrong so it was brought to an orange heat and air cooled twice. Then brought to critical and shoved in kaowool rolled up in a pipe to anneal. This might not be as effective as wood ash. Does the ash have to be packed in or just loose? All temps are guessed by color in a very dark room and a magnet. The picture shown of the grain was taken trough a microscope. The grains looked like dust without magnification. I don’t know if that changes the opinion of the grain size. To me it looked pretty fine. Just to test this I took a piece of the steel and brought it to way above critical and quenched in cold water. The grain was way bigger. So big I could see them without magnification. Kinda like pyrite. I should take a picture now that I am thinking about it. So far I think: 1. Normalizing was not done from critical. Probably a few hundred above. 2. Annealing was done from just above critical. But should have used a better insulator to cool slowly. 3. Water was to cold. 4. Should have done about 2 sec in hot water then finish in hot oil. No one said this but I keep thinking this would have prevented the cracking. Am I wrong?
  2. I have read other threads about quenching RR clip steel. i read Quenching in water can be done, but every time i have tried it equals in a crack. Heated to critical, verified using magnet. dull orange in almost full darkness, pulled it out tested on magnet, it stuck to magnet after about 2 secs. (did this a few times to make sure I wasn’t overheating the steel. I used hot water from the faucet for the quench. Dropped blade edge in water for 2-3 secs, pulled out. waited around 3-4 then dropped back in to just the edge, after a second or two completely dropped in water. That’s when I heard and felt the TINK. The metal had hairline cracks vertical and horizontal with two completely through and showing light in between. Some were just on one side going half way through. So here is the grain on the metal. Please tell me what I did wrong or could do better. Should I just stick with a fast oil? Any input is appreciated. *edit* I see on the hammon thread that allot of sucessfull qquenches are hot water then oil. i am thinking this was one of the mistakes.
  3. Joe1

    First knife

    I have made a few RR knifes, but This is my first attemp at a complete (no sheath yet) knife. The blade is forged from a Nicholson black diamond file. HT is edge quenched and tempered at 375 X 3 times. The last temp cycle I fell asleep and it cooked all night long. will this be an issue? I used a warm vinegar three times. 5 mins each to draw the hamon out. Should I get some PCB etch and try for a more defined line? The handle is cherry oak epoxyed and pinned by mild steel. The finish is Boiled linseed. 3.5 inch blade 3.5 inch handle. When shaping the blade it seemed to flow so well. Now with the handle on and finished it seems a little to fat for the handle. but i am pretty happy with it. Please let me know what you think. any advice or tips are very welcome. Thanks for looking!
  • Create New...