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  1. Just to see what would happen, I took a piece of Campo and rolled it out. Cold, no prep at all. It stuck together quite well and rolled out to about .006" or so. I think it's in Indiana now..... Brian
  2. Scott, A couple things quickly- calcium chloride is about $10 for 50 lb at a tire store unless they think you want it for bomb making. So they told me. And for high temp, ASM suggests adding barium chloride. If there is interest in the subject I can post some data later on today. Brian
  3. Hydrogen peroxide, and something like a needle to help dig splinters out. Paper towels and whatever tape is handy for bandages. Maybe some extra shoes for running around in circles and screaming. Brian
  4. I've never checked shocks, but would think that they are going to be pretty much the same as regular hydraulic cylinders, and they are usually a very low alloy. Probably not hardenable. Brian
  5. "Machinery's Handbook". I have the 18th and 22nd editions, I think Brian
  6. I didn't check the link, but Bruce has it right. Learn why drills are ground the way they are and do it by hand. A little practice and you're set, let alone the fact that no single sharpening geometry works well for all materials Brian I should have added a plug for "Machinery's Handbook". You can pick up a used copy off ebay (People seem to prefer the older editions, around #10 to #20 or so).
  7. I'm surprised that none of the knifemaker supply houses have been mentioned. Alpha Knife Supply, K&G, Texas Knifemakers, and so on. But Cupples can deliver to my door free if he's going to be in the neighborhood. Brian
  8. I've read accounts of cut-down war-type swords being used. A Claymore, even. Whether the basket hilted variety or the purist's long two hander was not stated, but it seems unlikely that an heirloom early blade would have been willingly chopped. Blasphemed. Brian
  9. You've got me going on this again...try "MongolianCulture.com" As far as I can tell, the style was influenced most by whoever they had just conquered. Beyond that, sabers are sometimes referenced, as are Buddhist influences, a religion and style of illustration that seems to have quite a bit in common with Indian motifs, and a legend that the Mongols were descended from wolves. I guess you will need to pick a place and a time to model. Start negotiations with the customer once you have him in a headlock. Brian
  10. I looked for quite a while earlier, and the biggest thing I found was that the bow was the primary weapon, and blades were usually not made by the Mongols themselves. The National Museum of Mongolia site offered little help, although it did present some ideas. Today I tried searching "Ghengis Khan Exhibits" and saw some potential but downloading was going at geologic speeds and I got tired of waiting....Perhaps the Smithsonian has something ???? Brian There is a Mongol heritage site "coldsiberia.org" that may help. Apparently I deleted my entire Mongol folder some time ago.
  11. Should add that you make sure that whatever you get fits in your hand comfortably and allows fine control. I wish I could speak about the Foredom tools directly, but have never used one. I began with a cordless dremel and a bunch of air-powered die grinders and would recommend neither for this work. Brian
  12. I've used a dremel tool with a round bit for coarse, and have gone as far as glass bead blasting for a fine effect. I lack the patience to do it with a needle if any real area needs to be done....my understanding is that it can be done with a needle held in a pin vise Brian I would avoid the engraver
  13. ....but I have never heard of anyone getting sunburn in Alaska, either... at least, not the parts I've been to... Brian
  14. About all I had handy when I made this was a drill press and a dremel, but didn't see a reason to redo it for looks. Anyway, it is real simple. It begins with a round piece of of steel, about 11/32 OD and bored to a little over 1/8 ID, then stepped to about 7/32 at each end. Slit all the way through lengthwise so it will press onto the existing front sight blade and cut to length, then chamfer the ends. I played around with sizes until the sight picture looked right, you might do differently. You will need the stepped bore to help with uniform illumination of the sight... The bottom picture
  15. I'll see about pulling it from the safe today. Brian
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