Wayne Coe

Just Google "Tire Hammer". You could get the plans from Clay Spencer and build your own. I think that both Raymond and David ship by freight company or you could engage a freight company to pick up and deliver the hammer. I just Googled Blacksmith Tire Hammer and got lots of hits.

It sounds like a tire hammer would suit you well. If you don't want to build your own check with either Raymond Head or David Custer. You can find both on FaceBook.

I suggest the design on my web site rather than with a slit down the side. With my design you can have the sides closed to conserve and contain the heat but also can open the side up if needed or even raise the top so that both sides have openings. You can even raise the top as much as needed and block the sides with fire brick. If the Freon tank is to large for your desires you can add an additional layer of Inswool before casting.

I'm sorry Jon, I just looked over the attachment that John wrote. I had added some notes from my early research. If it was not in a PDF and a problem to remove I would delete all of the notes beyond John's original article. I used his original article and then wrote the other Ribbon Burner attachment. I kept it as simple as possible and still get the desired results. I will soon try to delete the extraneous text.

Forget the gas diffuser! Just follow the instructions in the attachments on the Forge Supplies page of my web-site. That is the way I did it 10 years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since.

No Jon, that is not adequate.

Jon, you need the gate valve so that you can fine tune the air flow, therefore, the atmosphere inside the forge and the temp. I got mine on e-bay for $15.00 total. You could use a PVC gate valve for more reasonable pricing.

It would be better to follow the instructions and it is not that trouble to build the wooden form. If you used the cardboard how would you attach to the floor? If it doesn't work out well you will have to get more castable and still have to build the form. Let me know if I can help you.

The first thing I notice, it looks like you have a squirrel cage fan that will not develop the necessary pressure. Check out this blower: Https://www.amazon.com/Sunlar-Electric-Blacksmith-Centrifugal-Barbecues/dp/B071NQDNRK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1UKUQNDVS7OFY&keywords=blacksmith+blower+110v&qid=1563467670&s=gateway&sprefix=blacksmith+b%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-1

I don't know where the instruction not to put Metrikote over casting. I have been using it that way for over 10 years, at the recommendation of my supplier. They build large industrial kilns and furnaces and they use it this way. Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. About $100.00 plus the hose, regulator and burner using a 20# Propane tank.

Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. About $100.00 plus the hose, regulator and burner using a 20# Propane tank.

Matthew, send me an e-mail for what you want. I still sell Plistix and Metrikote. Oh, I just noticed that you have already e-mailed me this afternoon Thank you.

Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. About $100.00 plus the hose, regulator and burner using a 20# Propane tank. I suggest that you build your wooden form first and then fill it with dry sand, or flour, or rice, or some such product measured in pints to make sure that you order the correct needed castable. I suggest that you check out: Https://www.amazon.com/Sunlar-Electric-Blacksmith-Centrifugal-Barbecues/dp/B071NQDNRK/ref=sr_1_1

I alternate quarters and nickels for more contrast. I press the nickels, cold, to the diameter of the quarters, then clean and alternate the quarters and nickels. I make a tool of 2 pieces of 1/2" thick 4" X 4" bar stock and drill holes in each corner for bolts. Stack the coins and tighten the bolts. Heat in the forge, watching for the stack of coins to begin looking "wet". Press to weld. Grind the edges to check the welds and clean the faces with a wire cup brush on an angle grinder.

I too have raised my hammer on 6x6s for the same reason Alan mentioned. Putting a pad under the hammer will lessen the impact because the pad is absorbing some of the impact. Just like having a pad under your anvil. If you want to get the most out of your hammer glue it down with an adhesive silicone calk. I was given this advise by Dean Curfman, the builder of Big Blu hammers.