Wayne Coe

Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you.

Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you.

Chris, First, there is something strange going on with the forum. I have posted the SaltFork thread twice because it appeared that it had not been sent. I just had to delete the text because is was here again. Second if you will look above I responded to information that he requested and was not trying to sell anything. Third I try to provide a service to Bladesmiths and blacksmiths. I certainly am not making a living from the posts that I make or the items that I do sell. I will admit that I do make a little bit of "walking around" money.

I have a 100# Double Horned TFS and I am very disappointed in its design. The hardy hole is at the flat horn base. Traditionally the hardy is on the face next to the round horn. The flat horn is undercut almost at a 45 degree angle, so he has put the square corner stress risers right at the area where he has removed almost 1/2 of the metal, creating a weak area. The anvils are cast of ductal iron, not cast steel. Had I known these issues I would not have bought the anvil. I have a 500# cast steel double horned anvil as my primary anvil and the TFS is my traveling anvil.

IHave you joined the SALTFORK CRAFTSMEN ARTIST BLACKSMITHS ASSOCIATION https://abana.org/affiliates/affiliate-map-list/#!biz/id/596ff30d9865a16110706f2b/Contact They may have a shop or you may meet members who have shops that you could visit. Best if you can develop your own shop. Check out the video on the grinders page then look at the DVDs page for getting the DVD at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you.

Have you joined the SALTFORK CRAFTSMEN ARTIST BLACKSMITHS ASSOCIATION https://abana.org/affiliates/affiliate-map-list/#!biz/id/596ff30d9865a16110706f2b/Contact They may have a shop or you may meet members who have shops that you could visit. Best if you can develop your own shop. Check out the video on the grinders page then look at the DVDs page for getting the DVD at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you.

Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you.

It is also here with an additional attachment about the installation and plumbing. Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you.

Alan, it is my belief that if you make a hot cut and harden and temper it to about 500 degrees F (robin egg blue or 'possum ear blue if you are in the sough) you should never leave the hot steel in contact with the hot cut long enough to bring it up to critical or even low red, therefore any loss of temper it will still be harder than in the annealed or normalized state or even the "as forged" state..

Download the "Heat Treat" app.

Download the "Heat Treat" app. It is put out by ANSI. That way you know about 5160 heat treating but on many other alloys and lots more info.

Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you.

Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you.

Check out the video on the Grinders page then go to the DVDs page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you.

Atlantic 33 is also known as flutacon due to its shape. They quit making it years ago, I don't know if they have started it up again. According to Dave Smucker it is similar to 4140. I was at a demonstration given by Dan'l Boone where he touted it for his chisels. I think S-7 and H-13 are better for hot work tools. H-13 is an air hardening steel. Steve Williamson says to bring H-13 up to critical and let it cool in still air. Do not quench. Quenching softens the steel. He has multiple, same type tools and when one gets hot he sits it aside and uses the other one until it gets hot then switches back again.