Wayne Coe

Atlantic 33 is also known as flutacon due to its shape. They quit making it years ago, I don't know if they have started it up again. According to Dave Smucker it is similar to 4140. I was at a demonstration given by Dan'l Boone where he touted it for his chisels. I think S-7 and H-13 are better for hot work tools. H-13 is an air hardening steel. Steve Williamson says to bring H-13 up to critical and let it cool in still air. Do not quench. Quenching softens the steel. He has multiple, same type tools and when one gets hot he sits it aside and uses the other one until it gets hot then switches back again.

Pretty good shape, how many #s? Just need to radius the edges. I place a steel ruler along the length from nothing to about 3/8th " and use an angle grinder to the line on each side. with both sides having the same radius

I really can't believe that they do not properly secure that hammer. When I taught there it rocked more than a rocking chair. Most of the power is lost due to the movement.

I was repeating what Robb had told me. He knows a lot more about that than I do. The other person that you might want to discuss this with is Kevin Cashin. BTW, it is good to hear from you again. Let me know if I can help you again. Wayne

I talked to Robb Gunter who invented SuperQuench about spike knives. He recommended tempering, not to soften the blade but to refine the grain growth.

I read, several years ago, that the bearings need to be annealed, or at least normalized before forging. This article described a smith just heating a bearing and when he hit it with a hammer it exploded. Not good. Wayne

ITC-100 is terribly expensive, especially when you compare it to Metrikote, which some smiths say works better in a gas forge. Check out the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

The treadmill motor is not TEFC. My e-mail and phone # is in my signature here. Wayne

For a brushless motor you do not want to use a rheostat . It sounds like you do not have very much knowledge about motor so you might want to call me and I will try to walk you through it. Wayne

1.5 hp or 2 hp. 3 phase if you are using a VFD. VFD should have a NEMA 4X enclosure and the motor should be TEFC. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

Check out the Build a Gas Forge attachment and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

Paul, if you follow the instructions on the DVD and make sure everything is square, especially the motor to the frame you should have no problems.

Check out the Build Moe's Grinder on the DVDs page and the Grinders page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. You can probably build the frame out of your scrap pile. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

Check out the DVD page and the Grinders page for info about building your own variable speed Moe's Grinder at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. You can build it for under $1500.00. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne

That is Refractory Cement, intended for sticking bricks together, it is not Castable Refractory. Refractory is for building fireplaces. You need a Castable Refractory, such as Kast-0-Lite. See the products on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne