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Wayne Coe

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Everything posted by Wayne Coe

  1. You can probably get much higher heat, more controllable atmosphere and use less fuel with a ribbon burner. Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. About $100.00 plus the hose, regulator and burner using a 20# Propane tank.
  2. It is important to use tapered mig tips and Ward black pipe fitting. Ward is a brand name here in the US primarily used in sprinkler systems. You might also check www.ZollerForge.com for Larry's Y fitting burner kit and his Ward burner kit. The shell certainly should not get red at the burner attachments. I don't like square forges and prefer a round forge with the burner entering at a tangent to obtain a swirling flame and therefore avoiding hot spots and more even heat. Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at
  3. Just Google "Tire Hammer". You could get the plans from Clay Spencer and build your own. I think that both Raymond and David ship by freight company or you could engage a freight company to pick up and deliver the hammer. I just Googled Blacksmith Tire Hammer and got lots of hits.
  4. It sounds like a tire hammer would suit you well. If you don't want to build your own check with either Raymond Head or David Custer. You can find both on FaceBook.
  5. I suggest the design on my web site rather than with a slit down the side. With my design you can have the sides closed to conserve and contain the heat but also can open the side up if needed or even raise the top so that both sides have openings. You can even raise the top as much as needed and block the sides with fire brick. If the Freon tank is to large for your desires you can add an additional layer of Inswool before casting.
  6. I'm sorry Jon, I just looked over the attachment that John wrote. I had added some notes from my early research. If it was not in a PDF and a problem to remove I would delete all of the notes beyond John's original article. I used his original article and then wrote the other Ribbon Burner attachment. I kept it as simple as possible and still get the desired results. I will soon try to delete the extraneous text.
  7. Forget the gas diffuser! Just follow the instructions in the attachments on the Forge Supplies page of my web-site. That is the way I did it 10 years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since.
  8. Jon, you need the gate valve so that you can fine tune the air flow, therefore, the atmosphere inside the forge and the temp. I got mine on e-bay for $15.00 total. You could use a PVC gate valve for more reasonable pricing.
  9. It would be better to follow the instructions and it is not that trouble to build the wooden form. If you used the cardboard how would you attach to the floor? If it doesn't work out well you will have to get more castable and still have to build the form. Let me know if I can help you.
  10. The first thing I notice, it looks like you have a squirrel cage fan that will not develop the necessary pressure. Check out this blower: Https://www.amazon.com/Sunlar-Electric-Blacksmith-Centrifugal-Barbecues/dp/B071NQDNRK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1UKUQNDVS7OFY&keywords=blacksmith+blower+110v&qid=1563467670&s=gateway&sprefix=blacksmith+b%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-1
  11. I don't know where the instruction not to put Metrikote over casting. I have been using it that way for over 10 years, at the recommendation of my supplier. They build large industrial kilns and furnaces and they use it this way. Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. About $100.00 plus the hose, regulator and burner using a 20# Propane tank.
  12. Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. About $100.00 plus the hose, regulator and burner using a 20# Propane tank.
  13. Matthew, send me an e-mail for what you want. I still sell Plistix and Metrikote. Oh, I just noticed that you have already e-mailed me this afternoon Thank you.
  14. Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. About $100.00 plus the hose, regulator and burner using a 20# Propane tank. I suggest that you build your wooden form first and then fill it with dry sand, or flour, or rice, or some such product measured in pints to make sure that you order the correct needed castable. I suggest that you check out: Https://www.amazon.com/Sunlar-Electric-Blacksmith-Centrifugal-Barbecues/dp/B071NQDNRK/ref=sr_1_1
  15. I alternate quarters and nickels for more contrast. I press the nickels, cold, to the diameter of the quarters, then clean and alternate the quarters and nickels. I make a tool of 2 pieces of 1/2" thick 4" X 4" bar stock and drill holes in each corner for bolts. Stack the coins and tighten the bolts. Heat in the forge, watching for the stack of coins to begin looking "wet". Press to weld. Grind the edges to check the welds and clean the faces with a wire cup brush on an angle grinder.
  16. I too have raised my hammer on 6x6s for the same reason Alan mentioned. Putting a pad under the hammer will lessen the impact because the pad is absorbing some of the impact. Just like having a pad under your anvil. If you want to get the most out of your hammer glue it down with an adhesive silicone calk. I was given this advise by Dean Curfman, the builder of Big Blu hammers.
  17. I have a Big Blu 155 Max. My floor is 4" of concrete with fiber and no rebar. This was poured over a gravel layer. I have had no cracking. The vibration did cause my 500# anvil to walk due to the transmitted vibration. I then cut through the concrete around the Big Blu and filled the resulting kerf with silicone calk. That stopped the "walking anvil".
  18. Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you.
  19. Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. About $100.00 plus the hose, regulator and burner using a 20# Propane tank.
  20. Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. About $100.00 plus the hose, regulator and burner using a 20# Propane tank.
  21. I don't sell burners or forges. They are simple enough to build and just as safe as any pre-built forge, if you follow the instructions on the attachments on my Forge Supplies page. I too was fearful of building a forge until a friend helped me build my first one. All a gas forge is is a torch mounted in an insolated container.
  22. The question should not even need to be asked. Where are you located? If you don't want it I'll come and get it, no matter how far I have to travel. I'll even bring you the forge building materials that you will need for your first gas forge.
  23. There is no reason to put Metrikote or Plistix on the blanket if you are going to cast over the blanket with Kast-0-Lite or a similar product. Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. About $100.00 plus the hose, regulator and burner using a 20# Propane tank.
  24. I started with coal and have used coal at all of the classes that I have taken, as soon as I learned about gas forges that is what I switched to. It is easier to manage the fire. You have more consistent heat, you don't have "clinkers", the fuel is readily available, when you are ready to quit you just turn it off and walk away. There are many other reasons that i prefer gas. BTW, I forge weld in my Ribbon Burner forge without flux. Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know i
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