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Mark Green

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Everything posted by Mark Green

  1. Tossing in some fine sand as you go, can help some as well.
  2. Nice job.. The charcoal size is super important. With this style melter, you don't have a lot of control over your results. That is why the tuyere to the floor height is very important. Coming in at a flat angle is a good idea as well. Read the Evenstad papers about 5 times, and try the shallow hearth. follow the instructions exactly. Basically the same process, with a lot more control.
  3. I have melted bits of campo into bloom, in a Evenstad style hearth. It mixed in quite well, and made some very cool shiny streaks in the steel, after forging and etching. A Canister weld would likely work fine. Then cut and stack a few times, and it would likely make some very spiff patterns. Mark
  4. Very cool.. Why the two tuyeres ? Every couple months I run all the bloom fluff through the regular tall stack. Like 30 -40 lbs at a time. It always makes a great solid bloom/melt.. I pick up everything around the compacting stump, and smelter, that will stick to a magnet.. Of course, these days, every bit of dirt within 40 ft. of my smelting area, will pick up with a magnet Great work Dan... Big fun.
  5. Your getting there.... Your ore looks a lot like some of mine. Limonite.. from central NC Like your graph... Do you have a sight viewer at the tuyere? That is the best way of seeing any temp. problems right away. Are you on the Face book smelters page ? https://www.facebook.com/groups/361798240526981/?ref=bookmarks keep trying, it looks like your getting close...
  6. I see. Yes, I think that is just the reflection of my face, or the phone/cam. ​ The meteorite is super cool how it will look mirror shiny at one angle/light, and black, in another. ​ It's a very expensive add to your sword, but fun, and super cool points !!
  7. I have tried this process with bloom iron. It was not a great success. ​ I have found, that to get bloom iron very thin, without cracking, it has to be very refined. ​ I wonder if these cultures were running their iron through the hearth many times for refinement ?? That is the only way I have found that will allow this kind of work hardening of bloom product. ​ Great experiment, great looking sword.
  8. Thanks guys.......... ​ Josh, that bronze is just all nice and shiny right now. It will all turn a soft brown in less then a year. Old school, bronze always looks like gold when it is freshly polished...............
  9. https://get.google.com/albumarchive/106800196895572422821/album/AF1QipM3z9iO4W9VCKFM-0SNGafLMYQq4CGiIOgdboY3
  10. Hi gang, ​ I've been very lazy about posting lately. I'm working on finding all the pics., for a WIP on this sword. ​ It was made very much like my last 5 bar a year ago, I will post the Picasa link if I haven't already. ​ Anyway here are a few pics. ​ 6c Anglo-Saxon 5 bar PW, ​ All bloom material, and Campo Iron/ nickel meteorite. ​ The three center bars all have meteor as contrast, with high P and low P iron from bloom ​ Bloom steel edges, folded about 8 times. Bronze/bone/horn, ring pommel design. ​ Lamb fur lined wood, leather covered scabbard with hand wrought bronze fittings, and card weave trim. The sword is 31.5 in. blade length, 37 in. overall. ... 2.25 wide at the hilt.. Tapering to 2 in., at 3 in. from point. 5mm thick, at the hilt to 4 mm at the fuller end It's big. 3 lb. 4 oz. Mark G ​
  11. Love it.......... ​ Great job. A very powerful looking sword.... I like everything about this one ! ​ Mark
  12. Awesome !!! ​ The high center ridge, makes for a wonderful effect.
  13. Wonderful ! Thanks for sharing !!!!!!!!!!!!!! ! ​ Burn on !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  14. Very nice !! ​ Shibuichi is my favorite. ​ Thanks for sharing. Mark
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