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Gary LT

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Gary LT last won the day on July 8 2015

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  1. Doug, I just logged on and saw this. Perhaps signs posted offering a reward and check with pawn shops, flea markets, Craigslist antique stores, local farriers might have been contacted, etc. I know it’s lots of work but.....could prove worth it. Sorry Doug, my best to you, have faith something better will show up to forge on?! Gary LT
  2. I understand that about time Joshua! Gary LT
  3. Alveprins, beautiful concept as all your work. Thank you for posting and showing the materials. Did you fold the sawblade and 15n20 the ladder the Damascus or twist. ( Looks like ladder and drill indents?) wrap over the oberg or just sandwiched? Sorry for all the questions but I am intrigued. Kind regards, Gary LT
  4. Joshua, they are all excellent, my 2 cents is the fixed blade for an EDC. Just easier to use everyday in my opinion. Gary LT
  5. Jake is one who would know more than I. All I can add is I always find it harder to draw round stock wider as I can draw bar stock. Gary LT
  6. Brian, I like what your doing with these folders. It looks like you have found a niche in you talent stream! Gary LT
  7. Thank you Doug and Alan, I really do appreciate sharing such information in depth. I have no problem to try and duplicate as the outline suggested. My W2 bowie was clean, no burrs, actually sanded down to 220 grit then clayed. The completed separation crack happening a few seconds after I removed it from the warm water quench. This wasn’t a custom knife and I simply excited to try W2 and water quenching. I’ll order some 1075 as test as you did Doug while I save the W2. I’ll improvise my setup to include an angle quench perhaps. Lord I spend so much time and money anyway in making these items as is!
  8. Well Doug.....my first use of W2 was Bowie, clayed for and I chose the water quench only thinking with clay, I might be safe. The crack went all the way down the length 1/2” from the edge sheared and separated and that’s the last water quench this old boy did ! But 4 secs in water then into oil may prevent it? Think? Gary LT
  9. Doug, this is a beautiful piece of work. I am following and hoping you’ll update as it finishes. I am tempted to try a peace of Aldo’s W2 I have which is long enough but I might better go with 1075. It would also be a first katana for me as well. Gary LT
  10. I’ve used cork which I’ve cut from 12” squares that I bought at a hobby store or office supply (can’t remember, sorry!). It’s sold in flat sheets about 1/8” thick for use as a “note board” or something. Just bevel the joins. It got me by for a long long time. On one old home built belt sander! Gary LT
  11. I think you have a well engineered design Robert and with 4 in progress it’s working for you. Anyone would be tickled to own this Kith! Gary LT
  12. Garry, for what it’s worth.......I have been boiling my woods for handles and wood used for sheath. The size most used in 1.25 x 1.5 x 6”. I use an old aluminum pot (actually a pressure cooker) but any old pot will do. Once the boiling has completed I wrap the handle in cardboard and over that some newsprint, while wet, and let these dry off completely usually a few days. I am not sure if these sizes you have will work. You could try a few. It’s not my idea but it’s worked for me. Woods like Myrtle, Osage Orange, Oak, which were all given to me fresh. Gary LT
  13. Did more work on these three and started forging another from O1 round. These have been several days, the large one a lot longer! Gary LT
  14. Gerhard, May I ask what you mean by FWIW? I think perhaps; heat, tip quench, remove and watch color regain then quench again? Thank you, Gary LT
  15. Connor have Vice? Try clamping the blade in the jaws using leather or any padding and pry the handle off. Much like a hammer pulling out a nail, but very carefully. either wa, if you still have wood grindings/dust you can pack that into the cavity above the epoxy. Epoxy will darker it though. I’ve had some success with lighter pigment in the epoxy to offset. Just some small advice. Gary LT
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