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Gary LT

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Everything posted by Gary LT

  1. My goodness Richard this is stunning. I admire all your work but these fittings really floored me. I truly like this piece you’ve done. I am trying to wrap my mind around how you were able to do this. Not that I could! Gary LT
  2. Good night Rob, this is amazing. You certainly understand the painting process. Great talent you have and please continue! Gary LT
  3. I am all eyes watching Rob. I have something “vaguely” similar in process. Not sure if it will work but yours gives me hope! Gary LT
  4. I really like that color. Looking very nice ! Gary LT
  5. It’s a beautiful piece of work Joel. Yes the tang is long, has a purpose. I went back to look at the sketch, does the handle now meet those dimensions on the sketch? Currently the handle looks to stubby. Gary LT
  6. Gary LT

    Winter Tanto

    I agree also Aiden. I really like this blade. I don’t know what the steel was but I’ve boogered more than one trying to “improve it”! and if the steel is shallow hardening in the first place then may be that’s all you’ll get. Gary LT
  7. Gary LT

    Winter Tanto

    Thanks a million Emiliano. Honestly haven’t seen 4500 grit powder but I will find some and I agree with you that circular motions would defeat the purpose. I am working on some W2 in process, not quite ready yet. My ferric is 4 to 1 water and I had a great hamon on another knife but the whole blade had tones of tones of “dull grey”. I took the polish forward grit by grit to 2000. I just could not get the contrast I wanted. So in this case I buff/polished it and gave up. (Photos below) First I tried heated lemon juice repeatedly over and over polishing with successful grit up to 2000 and Flitz. What I was trying to do, is have a shiny clean blade edge but darker area where clayed.......probably not possible, Duh! Aiden may lend some insight with what he finds out with the lemon juice/acetic acid. Anyway, thanks for letting me ask all these questions, I apologize to both of you for hijacking this thread so I’ll end my babbling here.! Kind regards, Gary LT
  8. Gary LT

    Winter Tanto

    Hi Aiken, this is a very nice tanto, as I am no wizard with the Japanese nomenclature for blade types, I can only say, “I like this shape” a lot. What steel did you use? Also, I am watching how the lemon juice works as I tried it before, even warmed it. Maybe I wasn’t patient enough but couldn’t get the hamon I was working on, to detail well enough. I was using W2. @Emiliano Carrillomay I ask how high a silicon carbide powder you prefer? How strong is your etchant? (Undiluted?) If your going to 2000 grit, it’s pretty near mirror polish. I see powder available to buy from 220 grit to 3000. Will 1000 or even 1500 work? And straight motion or circular. I am asking all these questions as I like “shiny” and haven’t been really pleased with the grey tones from etching. Kind regards and thanks in advance, Gary
  9. Nice job on these Brian, (been watching for another folder to post up!) Looks like a usable pattern too. Gary LT
  10. Good then.! I never had an issue with vertical pipes but some have stated so. Happy forging now! Gary LT
  11. This is a beauty Zeb. I am impressed with how well you knocked this one out!, especially with the size and thickness. I have one seax much smaller that I can’t get started carving as I go blank. So I am all eyes to see how you get started carving on this one! Gary LT
  12. There are other variables Charlie, a) how far the mig tip is positioned into the tube (or the bell), b) are they centered, c) does it start whistling or backfiring after the forge is hot? (Your pipes are vertical over the heat), etc. A ten inch burner, (longer yet with flare on the end), should be plenty long enough using a .023, can’t say because mine were not that long. Try what I suggested first. Gary LT
  13. Well, have you increased the PSI, 2.5 is economical but does whistling and backup flaming stop by increasing the PSI in stages, (5, 8, 10) what is happening at the burner tube ends? Blue flame or is the blue flame dancing away from the burner end? Gary LT
  14. Yes, I am familiar with the bell reducer and used it before. I didn’t ask how long the 3/4” burner tubes were....or what PSI you’re running (if you know?)....here’s why.... 23 mig tip is the smallest orifice tip and has significant velocity. As gas is expelled, it pulls air thru the tube as well thereby getting a good mix to add oxygen and burn at the burner tube end which is inside the forge. But too much velocity and the burn is erratic and moves back and forth, hard to adjust. I had to lengthen my burner tube to accommodate such an erratic burn on one set up. On another, I went with a larger size mig tip .030 or .035 for more gas, less velocity than the .023, but a better mix in the tube so I could get a controlled burn at the tube end in the forge. Also your forge cannot be completely closed off. Like sealing off the front opening to retain heat. Some heated air has to escape to equalize the pressure inside for a Venturi to work. There are just a few things you may want to look at, one step at a time, easiest first. Just based on some of my experience which worked and I am no “pro”! Kind regards, Gary LT
  15. Your burners are whistling? Seeing any flames coming back into the burner? What set up is the air intake? (Such as “T” burners, or rectangular holes or circular holes in the burner?) Gary LT
  16. Love it Alan! Dandy work and true to styling one might have owned then. I am partial to 01. Been thinking about the John Ek Australian commando knife and contemplating something similar in the pommel area. Did a Persian as such when we did the KiTH 4-6 years ago (?), so I thought maybe a folder? (But heck, got more ideas than I have time or money for material, maybe one day). I bet if feels good in hand. Gary LT
  17. Rob, that’s a really nice knife! First thing that caught my eye were how well the pins were set. Oak is grainy, these have no gaps! Well done. Gary LT
  18. @Faye When I think of a broke back seax, I go to George Ezell. For me, he has the spirit and form captured. The handle joins the blade cleanly. Attached is just one photo I saved from an older post. Gary LT
  19. Hey Conner, I like the polished blade and how you sculpted the flats areas in the handle. Now sharpen it and put it to use!! See how your work .... works, carve, cut, slice, spear, the whole sha-bang! enjoy it, Gary LT
  20. Hi Austin, the whole package is first class. Did you apply Aqua R. to the maple? I have a couple of blocks I thought to use later in something. Gary LT
  21. Clint, both of these blades have really nice pattern, each to its own design. Well done! I envy the SanMai design myself, it’s what I’d like to accomplish because the light steel is blade edge while the rest of the blade etch just flows light/dark. Gorgeous. Would you elaborate how you did this? (PM or for all!) Kind regards, Gary LT
  22. Geoff, looks really good. I’ve been drawfiling a piece of buggy spring shear steel, to save my belts. Yes, steel can be moved. Gary LT
  23. Hi John, thanks. Well, I tried it and will try again but so far I wasn’t my method or results. I do make a distal tapered blade a reduced point. It takes me substantial time. I studied every thins a well known Finnish maker did as I am really sold on his overall design/shape. You know we are only talking of 1 degree here or there. My hats off to you! I admire your works as others do. Best regards, Gary LT
  24. John that’s a lovely blade shape for a Puukko. I believe you had stated before you were grinding vertical to get these bevels? (I probably didn’t understand but I though I’d ask?) The numbness will get better to some degree! Gary LT
  25. Thank you John for the details on the bolster peen. I can see I am too forceful and I will also use a different ball peen hammer. I haven’t done many, as I wasn’t pleased with the results, so I set the idea aside Beautiful execution on the Kokemaen fit as well! The overall shape works as well. Kind thanks, Gary LT
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