Jump to content

Michael Asquino

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Michael Asquino

  • Birthday 04/18/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Stamford, Ct
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing (Ornamental, Bladesmithing and Armorsmithing), Casting, Smelting, Japanese culture.
  1. also i was wondering Kevin when you use vinegar should it be warm, cold, boiling? Ive seen some instances where people have boiled theirs before the etch
  2. thanks guys! Im in the process of ordering some of aldos w2 and 1075, i cant wait to work with it. At this point should i re-polish the whole thing start to finish to start clean again? or just re-etch?
  3. So ive been slaving away at polishing this thing and heres where i am now, this is 2000 grit with a 4-1 FC etch for 20 min... After i cleaned the etch, i noticed i was getting horizontal lines on the Hada... Any ideas?
  4. I have a Chile habenero forge which i use for everything from Forging, annealing, normalizing and hardening and tempering... when i first started forging my atmosphere was very rich in oxygen so over the course of my learning i throw some lump charcoal in my forge to reduce on scale which is another reason why i added it to the satantite mix... I found hardening in a low psi propane atmosphere with charcoal really helps me to reduce on scale formation during normalization and hardening.
  5. Thanks a lot Kevin, I have a full set of Wet/dry Sandpaper ranging from 50 to 2000 grit and also have Fritz Polish.. that first etch was a 1 - 4 ferric chloride water solution for 25 min. Right now the grind is at 80 grit from a quick run on my belt sander.. should i take it back to 50 and start going up the ranges to 2000?
  6. Yellow poplar saya and Tsuka, Copper habaki with brass seppas, copper kashira & Fuchi, black deer skin Ito, Mild steel Spacer Tsuba As far as saya details probably going to make it glossy black Laq. Going to make this real simple and practical... I dont wanna go all out on my first one, lol
  7. Thanks guys. I used satanite with a teaspoon of powdered charcoal added to the wash and thicker slurry. The anvil is a 100LB TFS double horn on 200lb cemented stand and the pritchel hole is covered by the blade, lol
  8. So I've been working on trying to create a finished Tanto inspired blade since last year and have been hitting walls along the way. I've cracked numerous blades now in water, I think 5 or 6 now... Using both 1075 and 1095 Tonight i finally was able to produce a Japanese inspired blade i will be able to finish!!!! There are no cracks or warps in the blade at all....I was amazed! and the hamon came out pretty good, the tip and near the tang became a bit to shallow but im still a happy camper! The photos are of the rough grinding after forging the blade, It being clayed, and finally
  9. Absolutely stunning work!!!! Your process photos really tell a story of how your blade comes to be in existence! Question for you...What are the dimensions of your sunobe before beveling if i might ask? I've started my journey to craft Japanese style blades was wondering how others are currently doing it. I haven't had much luck in the past year forging after I've created the sunobe and began beveling it.
  10. Hi everyone, I haven't posted in a while but i just finished this today. It was a 40 yr old rasp a friend found in his basement and didn't have a use for anymore. The original rasp was about 18" long and i cut it in two sections .The OAL of the knife is 9" and 1/4" with a 5" blade. Oil quenched, with a deer skin wrapped handle and the bevels are polished to 1000 grit. I wanted to keep it a rustic feel so the sanding is very rough but OOOOO does it cut! Besides the rasp, i got 6 other bastard files that are 18 x 1 1/2 x 1/4 inch from my friend....cannot wait to start working on thos
  11. So i have a question about hardening a 1095 blade using satanite to create a hamon. The blade is 10" long with a spine thickness of 3/16 and an edge thickness of 1/16. I first made a rough layout area with a sharpy and applied the satanite that was about 1/8 thick on both sides. I allowed it to dry overnight and began to harden it today with minimal light so i could gauge the steels color also using a magnet. As soon as i quenched the blade in water and it cooled. id noticed it hardend correctly but saw 3 cracks on the edge and some surface cracks on the right side. Ive hardened 1095
  12. Hello everyone, Just wanted to post some pictures of my first finished knife and my current work in progress and also a little info about myself. My names mike, i live in Stamford, CT. I'm 24 and recently graduated from the university of Hartford with a BA in drawing. I started forging about two years ago while at UHA. I currently have my own shop in my garage equipped with a Chile Habenero dual burner forge and 100lb double horned TFS anvil,and lots of other goodies. All together I've made four completed knives so far but three of which i never took pictures of and are currently roaming
  • Create New...