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Cal G

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Everything posted by Cal G

  1. John that is one heavy duty looking machine. The limiting factor for rolling hot metal is most likely going to be the bearing material used in the mill stands. As far as torque if it driven by a 10 HP electric motor you should have all kinds of torque from what I can as the the gear reduction. Measure how fast the rolls turn and use the formula below to calculate it. My rolling mill has a 5 HP hydraulic drive turning the rolls at 20 RPM and has all kinds of torque. To calculate the theoretical torque of the machine use this formula T (in-lbs) =63025 x HP / RPM (of the rol
  2. Stretched crushed W's with stainless fittings and spalted Tamarind handle.
  3. 52100 core, 420SS sides with Ironwood handle and stainless fittings.
  4. Walrus tusk with and Ebony insert, stainless fitting, 1080 / 15N20 stretched crushed W's pattern. +
  5. Blade forged from 1080 / 15N20 ,crushed W's pattern, then stretched. Masur Birch handle with stainless fittings.
  6. I did until my last computer melt down, all I have are some pictures.
  7. I agree with Billy O. Get a little offset under that cross member under the jack and you are going to have a twisted press. I have designed hydraulic system in steel mills all my life and people don't realize the the TREMENDOUS FORCES that are sitting there just waiting to be released. 20 tons (40,000) lbs is a lot of potential energy just waiting to be released. Just because someone (I assume offshore)rated it a 20 tons does not mean it is designed for that kind of force. I laugh every time I look at my shop vac RATING 5HP I would like to know how anyone and get 5 HP out
  8. 420 SS / 52100 San Mai with stainless fittings and Maple burl handle.
  9. Is that forge REALLY sitting on a wooden bench top and operating ? Maybe it is a good thing you never got to welding temp. Hope you have a good fire insurance policy.
  10. i may be wrong but was under the impression that it was a 12:1 ratio Taking the tangent of this angle 1/12 equates to 4.763 degrees I have always turned my burner nozzles with a 4 3/4 degree taper and they work fine.
  11. 1080 / 15n20 Damascus by maker with Turkish Walnut handle and stainless fittings .
  12. 52100 core with 420 sides ,Stabilized Maple handle with SS fittings
  13. Alan you can't believe how much fun it is, as the thin stainless, seems to bend different than the thick stainless. After I have all the thin pieces epoxied together I put them in the press as a unit and put about 20 tons of force on them and they fit perfectly to the thick piece.
  14. 52100 core 420SS sides, maple burl stainless fittings with red micarta spacer.
  15. Charles my grinder only has one speed and that would be 5 x 3.14 x 1750 x 1/12 = 2289 ft/min The key is to use a new sharp belt as an old one will tend to burn the spacer material especially if it is next to a SS spacer it really get hot in a hurray.
  16. Mine is just .015 black spacer material sandwiched between SS and yes you have to have a sharp belt to grind it so it does not get hot and melt the spacer material.
  17. Gary my forge runs around 2150 to 2250 deg F so that would be the temp i weld billet of San Mai. To me it more about the prep work with San Mai , flat ,clean and completely welded around the perimeter to keep out the oxygen. I have never had a billet not weld.
  18. Got these finished. Time to clean up the shop and get inspired for something new next year. Crushed W's eyed with dovetailed stainless bolster and yellow/black G10, 420 SS with 52100 core San Mai black lined Micrata handle.
  19. This has been bothering me for some time so I would like to get some opinions on this. I always make my feather point towards the tip on the blade but everyone else seems to point it towards the handle.
  20. Doug if I understand the question,the back of the handle must be at 90 degrees to the tang bolt. Then just screw the butt cap on and everything should line up and fit.
  21. 1080 /15N20 crushed W's laddered steel,stainless fittings and stabilized maple burl The finished knife
  22. 1080 /15N20 crushed W's,twisted stainless fittings, dovetailed bolster and G10 handles.
  23. I never know what to do with small left over pieces of my Damascus. So I weld a tang on and turn them into small kitchen knives. These 3 have Iron wood handles, micarta spacers and stainless fittings with epoxy and pinned handles.
  24. Here is the process I use 1. Clean up the blade after Heat Treat ,sand to 600 2. Etch your mark on the blade ,use DC current and drive it into metal fairly deep then etch the complete blade in Ferric Chloride 3. attach bolster/guard, glue on handle 4. grind guard and handle to shape ,you are correct this will destroy the damascus pattern on the handle edges 5. buff finish the handle and guard 6. clean the exposed steel in the handle area with acetone to remove any buffing grease (you can't use acetone with some acrylic handle material as it will dissolve the mate
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