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Salem Straub

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Salem Straub last won the day on November 19

Salem Straub had the most liked content!

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About Salem Straub

  • Birthday 05/07/1983

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.prometheanknives.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tonasket, WA
  • Interests
    All types of ferrous metalwork. Shop machinery, acquiring, rebuilding, and using. Tai Chi Sword, the practice and the blades. Playing music, eating good food, reading good books. Enjoying life!

Recent Profile Visitors

1,229 profile views
  1. Renaissance Sidesword WIP

    That is a such a beautiful hilt style that you've chosen... I'll be keep an eye on this!
  2. "SnarkNado" Fighter.

    Thanks a lot, Jim! It actually went to Paul Long for a sheath, so I'll post a pic of what he came up with when I get one... it's always a real honor to have a customer send one to the Dean of Leatherworkers.
  3. "SnarkNado" Fighter.

    Thanks a bunch guys! Some days it really makes this life easier to find a kind comment.
  4. Therapy Dagger: A little PW Dagger

    Sometimes it is a very good thing to have a shop to retreat to and tune out the world for a while. And you made great use of the time, that's a sweet piece! The blade collar in particular is neato.
  5. "SnarkNado" Fighter.

    Yessir, the very same. Works great on mascus or full blackening carbon steel!
  6. "SnarkNado" Fighter.

    Hey Wes! Thanks for the felicitations. I got the Lauer brand manganese phosphate parkerizing concentrate gallon from Midway supply, seemed like the best price for a recommended product. It's worked great, a gallon has lasted me about a year, and that's with some negligence on my part. Only needing to re-up now. They sell pre-dip solution too, but the ferric chloride you already have on hand works just fine.
  7. "SnarkNado" Fighter.

    Wesley, the frame itself is tapped for 2-56 screws, and it's thick enough that screws can thread into it from each side. Another way would have been to use standoffs in larger holes, but you can see by the frame width I didn't have a lot of room to work with there. The guard details are cut in with files, on the back they were cut in with a chainsaw file and then background hogged away on the milling machine. Then when fitting the handle up, I had the frame assembled and the alignment pins in, and drew it up tight to make an impression on the front of the scales, then filed the notches some, checked the fit, filed more, etc. As far as the park process, it's sand up to 400 grit by hand, make sure it's clean/no fingerprints, etch in dilute ferric chloride for an hour or so, brush off oxides, neutralize, water rinse, and hang straight into the manganese phosphate bath at 190f for 10 minutes or so. Pull out, air dry, water rinse, warm dry, scrub oil on with a cloth.
  8. "SnarkNado" Fighter.

    Here is my latest, a takedown fighter. It has a 9" san mai blade in 410ss/150 layer core, hollow ground with slight swedge. Fittings are of parkerized 4140ht in a captive-nut takedown construction, with screw-on sculpted scales of green canvas micarta, shadowboxed to the handle frame. I got to play with interesting stuff like inventing (at least for myself) the takedown type, putting new sculptural details into the guard, and exploring my new love for parkerizing chrome moly steel. That crystalline black is the BEST! I called it the SnarkNado because I severely binged on listening to Snarky Puppy while I made this knife, and so it has been infused with that musical joy. Pics and a vid...
  9. "Sangre" takedown small bowie.

    It's actually not horribly difficult, as the skins of the blade are 410 stainless. They etch at a very slow rate, while the CruV core etches black within a couple minutes or less. I just etch long enough to blacken the core, which leaves the skins untouched. It's all at a 600 grit hand sanded finish to begin with. After the ferric etch, I neutralize and then water rinse, all without wiping the blade, then hang it down into the instant coffee sludge for a couple hours to set the oxides very dark. After that I water rinse and then warm the blade a bit and rub oil onto it. Done! Occasionally if the core is mascus or something, you'll find yourself etching long enough to darken the ss areas a bit. In that case, they can be selectively scrubbed clean with flitz or better yet, the 1500 grit silicon carbide loose abrasive you'll have on hand if you used to be a hamon obsessive.
  10. 52100 and Stainless San Mai

    Mighty nice! Clean work with the bolsters.
  11. "Sangre" takedown small bowie.

    That's what I did! A v joint and brazed.
  12. "Sangre" takedown small bowie.

    Thanks guys! Heirloom fit means that the wood is proud of the guard or other fittings slightly and evenly all around, so that if the wood ever shrinks slightly it will still not be below the metal. It's in vogue right now. The blade has a ferric chloride etch followed by coffee blackening to increase contrast. Works a treat!
  13. "Sangre" takedown small bowie.

    My latest finished piece... I really had fun with this one. 5.5" san mai blade in 410/CruForgeV, with parkerized fittings of 4140ht, and heirloom fit sculpted grip of manzanita burl. Takedown construction.
  14. The Last Two Weeks' Work...Balls to the Wall

    Excellent. I like seeing you work with twisted w's, one of my favorite patterns. And I agree with Wes, that white multibar dagger has it going ON.
  15. pair of mosaic damascus chefs

    Those are sweet, Matthew. Pretty awesome that Mareko has joined forces with you guys, with the wide range of what all involved can do I'd think it's just going to kick you into overdrive! I look forward to seeing some amazing things as ideas flow back and forth.
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