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Salem Straub

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Salem Straub last won the day on January 24

Salem Straub had the most liked content!

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About Salem Straub

  • Birthday 05/07/1983

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    Tonasket, WA
  • Interests
    All types of ferrous metalwork. Shop machinery, acquiring, rebuilding, and using. Tai Chi Sword, the practice and the blades. Playing music, eating good food, reading good books. Enjoying life!

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  1. Salem Straub

    Perhaps the busiest knife I have ever made...

    Very stylish piece!
  2. Salem Straub

    Scramasax. Pattern welded blade with ornamented handle WIP

    Super cool on all counts!
  3. Salem Straub

    Venturi orfice size?

    The old Rupert Wenig burners that Reil talked about on the ABANA page were 1-1/4" tubes with a bell reducer. They used a #52 drill for a gas jet which is just about 1/16". I built one long ago and it did work well, although quite fuel hungry at higher pressures. The other day we were building a first forge for a student, and the gas jet for a 1" burner turned out to want to burn well at #55 drill, which is a 52 thou orifice.
  4. Salem Straub

    Just no way around it eventually

    What?? They were absolutely meant to last this long, and longer. Nothing wrong with a wrought body anvil at all. I love my wrought Peter Wright. You're not supposed to forge really heavy stuff over the horn anyway, it's not very efficient. The horn is for bending, and if you have a piece so big that it's endangering your wrought anvil horn, that's far too big to be trying to bend by hand on the horn anyway. Don't worry about it, man. This anvil of yours is in no way inferior to modern anvils, in fact it may well have a somewhat harder top than you'll find in most modern anvils. It looks to be in great shape!
  5. Salem Straub

    Knifemaker Interview Series, a biography workshop

    OK I bugged him. Now I'm gonna bug him some more!
  6. Salem Straub

    African blackwood

    It's an excellent turning wood as long as you keep your tools sharp. It is also an excellent carving wood, in terms of holding fine detail- but likes to be scraped rather than cut to a finish. It's very hard so cutting it takes sharp tools and some effort. The grain is usually pretty straight and it's not as splintery as ebony can be. To finish it, I like to sand up to 1000 grit, rub light machine oil on it, buff lightly with pink no-scratch compound. Usually the grain is closed but sometimes open grain/pores will surface; spot sanding with super glue to fill works well.
  7. Hey man! Yeah I just posted it in reply over on my dagger thread, but it needs to live here, too! Enjoy...
  8. Salem Straub

    NewVeau Dagger

    Your wish is my command...
  9. Salem Straub

    NewVeau Dagger

    Thanks, Charles! Well I'm certainly only a beginning carver, and an even background is something I find challenging. It looks flat because I fussed with it for a long time... I have a couple sets of basic little carving chisels, and several that I've made, as well. I actually cut with the chisels just enough to define the outline and remove some background, and then I begin using the chisels up around 90 degrees to scrape with to remove the rest of the background and even things up. The smaller the area, the smaller the chisel, until I'm really using a narrow flat graver to scrape the background even in the smallest areas of the carving. In many ways, blackwood responds to being worked from a metalworking approach, and this is another of those areas. I finish up with 100 grit paper on various backing sticks and some small rubber backings made of baler belt scraps, going back to scraping from sanding if it still looks uneven in various angles of light. Blackwood is tough because it's so shiny and greasy naturally at high grit levels. Anyway that's my method for now, but like I say I've only actually put a couple pieces out as of yet with this type of carving...
  10. Salem Straub

    NewVeau Dagger

    Jeremy, I did hammer this out on the Beaudry! It was amazing, as if the hammer of the mighty Hephaestos himself melded the steel... but seriously, to be able to knock together a billet like this... And then this, And then this... Went amazingly with the big flat dies and quick speed/control, better than the press would have been. You can capture and weld a large piece of real estate at once as long as it's all hot and flat, and hit hard. Kerosene was used as flux except for when welding the jelly roll to square, that needs borax. Raymond, this one won't be there, as it was an order... I'm hoping to be able to bring some other fancy piece and a few more common works. Be cool to meet you! Come find me please if I don't manage to find you!
  11. Salem Straub

    NewVeau Dagger

    My newest work... Composite damascus dagger, art nouveau fittings of parkerized 4140 steel with anodized titanium spacers. Relief carved blackwood grip, takedown construction. 8" hollow grinds with swept plunges Warenski style on a roughly 12" long blade. To elaborate on the steel, it's crushed c's turned onto the side of the billet, welded then rolled up jelly style with 15n20 layers top n bottom, forged out and tiles ferry flipped off the end, then surrounded with edge bars of twisted w's. To elaborate on the pommel, the stack of spacers are screwed up into the bottom of the pommel with 2x56 screws, which traps the hidden socket head sex nut that draws the whole works tight onto the tang.
  12. Salem Straub

    Peter wright anvil

    I think you done good. At first I felt bad, as it looks not unlike some cast iron soft topped anvil shaped objects... but the horn shape is good and if it ring and rebounds, that's all that matters. Odd though to see that thick top ledge/cast body look in a real anvil! $4/lb. for flat top and crisp edges is decent these days. I've been seeing old anvils at like 7 or 8 bucks a lb. on CL, crazy money! Cheaper to buy new at that point.
  13. Salem Straub

    Knifemaker Interview Series, a biography workshop

    OK. Now that it's been a year I'm gonna go bug Ben! Wish me luck...
  14. Salem Straub

    Forge-welding damascus tiles

    Here's another way, if you want edge bars (these are twisted w's surrounding the tiles) you can just tack those on there. You have to get a fast flat crush on it from both directions though on the first heat. This one welded up OK with kerosene and then flux in subsequent heats. I thought to add, I've had success with thick straight sided tiles with a thin 15n20 plate top and bottom... kerosene also. Again, gotta crush it hard flat and quick in as few bites as possible, first heat, then heat n repeat. This was for side grain but it would work for face grain with just waster plates I'm sure.
  15. Salem Straub


    Very cool knives, and I'm happy to see you posting work again!