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Salem Straub

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Salem Straub last won the day on August 14

Salem Straub had the most liked content!

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About Salem Straub

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    Tonasket, WA
  • Interests
    All types of ferrous metalwork. Shop machinery, acquiring, rebuilding, and using. Tai Chi Sword, the practice and the blades. Playing music, eating good food, reading good books. Enjoying life!

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  1. Well, it's just my somewhat educated opinion... who knows, you may meet another guy who knows his stuff but says different!
  2. That's really nice, and it sounds beautiful where you moved to... enjoy settling in!
  3. You can see in that die grinding pic that the sparks are pretty explody... at least 40 points carbon I'd say and possibly more. I think they'll work great!
  4. I ground the top die nice and flat, and softened the edges just a bit with an angle grinder, then did the same to the bottom die... Then took measurements of the ram dovetail, and found some stock the right thickness for a key. Here it is blocked up on the grinder mag chuck, machining 1/8" taper per 11" off, 13" total key length. Top die, 1/8" shim underneath and die key rough-fitted. I drove it in about halfway with a deadblow, it will be finish fitted with blue dykem and selective grinding. The ram looks good with that die in it, though!
  5. It looks beautiful to me, the steel in particular! The hamon may be a bit low in places, hard to tell, but it's very active and cool!
  6. Oh, and check the sheath out y'all, I think it's an interesting item...
  7. Welding the bolsters on is an effective way to get pattern on the bolsters at the same resolution as the blade... the other way is to build the blade from thick tiles and have the blade tiles "pre-compressed" so that the pattern when drawn out matches the bolster pattern. That approach wouldn't really apply to multibar. Believe me, it's always a gamble welding bolsters on when this far into a billet! They don't always succeed...
  8. Guys, if you want to see the build, here's a WIP album with captions that I did on Facebook: It includes some detail of the T spine as well as the patterning of the steel.
  9. Cool, lots of hot work! I'm staying tuned for this one...
  10. Santokus are not usually that long, because with that wide of a tip, it gets quite nose heavy past 7" or more... gyuto/chef knives are more nimble beyond that length. I wonder why your uncle wants a tip that wide, the only reason I can think of would be to pick up more food at a time with the blade. If he's dead set on a toku that long, do make it so that there is no true flat section to the edge. It should be quite close to flat over at least 2/3" of the length, with increasing curve out toward the tip. Make sure the heel is at least 2" tall. For a 10" long blade I often prefer 2.25". The handle needs not extreme contour, not as much as many hunting and chopper knives get, as the hand should be able to play over the grip with not a lot of specific grip promotion. Almost no one ever uses a gyuto or santoku in a "hammer" grip. The handle is usually much looser and often more forward, which is a much easier way to cut fast and repetitively. The butt of the handle doesn't need much drop, indeed too much can really be unfortunate. Is that a butt cap, or tang runout, or what at the end? Why? Why san mai, if all the layers are hardenable and also not stainless? You'll get some degree of contrast between the steels, but not a whole lot, and there will be no benefit from corrosion resistance or added toughness from the cladding. If it's going to be san mai, be aware that a santoku needs to be THIN and this is difficult to achieve when worrying about whether your core is centered and showing evenly how you want. I suggest making your san mai with the core bar 20% or so thinner than the cladding bars, so you won't be worrying about grinding your cladding away too much when getting the blade correctly thin. I assume you won't be putting those grantons in, that you drew. It will be tough to get them to look right, unless you have a very specific wheel for grinding them, and they will be an odd thing to work out with your san mai as well. For food release on these, an "S" grind works best, but again that's tough with san mai. Better to go with the common flat/mild convex on lower quarter of bevel geometry, which does well with food release. I'd suggest a max spine thickness of .100" or less, flat ground down to .030" at the edge before HT, and then convexed down in the lower quarter after heat treat, to .005" of you can get it. That cuts well and food mostly falls off. You'll need some distal taper in that blade too, if you want it not to feel too nose-heavy and clunky. A nice weight for a 10" gyuto is 7-9 oz, might be an ounce more with that fat tip. CruForgeV/15n20 is a combo that would cut better than a 1084 core, and is still HT'able in charcoal, although you'll need to give it a bit of a soak at temp. CruV etches very dark, cuts ferociously, and can be gotten from Alpha Knife supply as well as Kelly Cupples. It forge welds readily although care should be taken as it is prone to hot-shorting. Bottom line, I wouldn't suggest san mai for your first toku, and I'd ditch the grantons either way.
  11. My latest finished piece. It's a khyber knife, of integral construction in composite zanjir damascus, with a hilt of desert ironwood burl. The blade is 15" long, the overall length is 21", and the weight is 1 lb., 4.65 oz. It is 1-7/8" tall at the heel. It features a traditional T-spine, and a false edge in front. Tang passes fully through and is secured with a twist damascus finial nut suitable for lanyard use. Ended up making a sheath... here's a vid of that.
  12. Jim, I really appreciate that, although I think you're way too kind... thanks for digging the thread!
  13. I've been working on other things to make money the last few weeks, but I did buy some dies from a fellow forumite here (thanks man!) and they came in today. These are likely Bradley dies, but will fit with a shim underneath. They are round-swaging dies so I'm having to grind them flat.The faces are 4"x11" and die height will be 2" upper and 2.25" lower.A file will cut them but they are semi-hard and spark like at least medium-high carbon steel.SUCH nice big flat faces! Can't wait to smash billets!
  14. I'd bore them for bearings, too. That's the cleanest way to go, and as you say you do have a lathe. I've done this for several contact wheels over time, in my shop. Just be sure you get the wheel dialed in with very little runout in your chuck, grabbing the hub would work it looks like, but maybe use a 4 jaw chuck and indicate it in carefully. You don't want to be turning that tire to fix a slightly non-concentric bore, and re-balancing etc. You could mount it on a faceplate perhaps if the other side does not have a good hub to chomp onto. The easiest way without a lathe is indeed to just get two pillow blocks and a short keyed shaft and make a tooling arm for them to mount on, that's often done with the Grizzly contact wheels for instance. It's just a bit of a blocky and heavy tooling arm then, all told.
  15. Gotta echo Alan on that one. And, having a power twister with foot switch is like having two people... you have both hands free to use water, wrench, torch, etc. It seems to me that in an evenly heated bar, the end on the crank powered side of a twister/jig will twist a bit tighter, since it absorbs some of the torque by the time the torque can reach the far end of the bar. So, I capitulate to needing more than one heat, and twist the tailstock end first, then proceed toward the headstock end while controlling the already twisted sections with tongs (most folks use a pipe wrench.) I'm off to the shop now in fact to start a group of billets that will be twisted for a 7-bar composite khyber...