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Salem Straub

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Everything posted by Salem Straub

  1. That's a very clean and attractive design and fitup. Great work, Wes!
  2. I clean up both sides on the surface grinder, shimming as necessary on the chuck to obtain flat surfaces, with major points centered when finished. I try to remove a more or less equal amoutn per side, down to the target thickness in theis case of .090" at 36 grit. This leaves an angle cut in the "plunge" area on both sides. The heel on both sides and parts of the edge are still black. From the top, stock left to remove is roughly symmetrical. Grinding the tang some, beginning to define the lines of the front and back of the bo
  3. Lol! Thanks for the pin, Alan. Part two to come later today, then. There's even a part 3...
  4. This is a tutorial I did last winter, in response to a request for help in forging integral chef's knives. Here the starting block is a piece of feather pattern damascus that I'd already forged- the WIP won't show that part. Instead we show the process of shaping said block into an integral blade, with an emphasis on material conservation. This is a somewhat machine-centric way of doing the forging, as at the time I was refining my forging process to apply to forging Damasteel integrals from large round bar- and stainless damascus is VERY red-hard and needs force to move. The steels us
  5. Thanks guys for the encouraging feedback! BillyO, no secrets here. I always forge the blade first. I start with a chunk of pattern weld say 3/4" thick by 1.25-1.5" tall. I lightly guillotine fuller where the front of the bolster will be, just to mark it really. Fullering it much to start will curtail your ability to drop the heel right from the bolster later. I draw on my LG50 mostly at the point to start defining the blade shape, getting it thinner and pointed out at the tip, then start stretching and widening the blade back toward the midsection. I stay away from the bolster area for
  6. This is mostly what I've been up to of late. I do still love making daggers, fighter, hunters and folders but the Instagram market has been snapping kitchen knives up this year! I like kitchen knives, because I like to cook and have done so a lot, because of the challenge inherent in these particularly performance-first knives, and because of the large canvas they often afford for the pattern welder! Sorry for the few lower quality pics... sometimes you already have it sold, and only have time for a quick snap before shipping...
  7. Beautiful work! Question: Do you use foot control or palm control on that Lindsay Classic?
  8. Excellent! Those look great, I really like the fullers in particular. What a good feeling it must be to be back up and running. How does the new shop compare to the old? More space? Different feel? Nice to be somewhere new?
  9. Another thing to think about is possible cross breeze or moving air in the shop... that can really wreak havoc with shielding gas. If you can, tipping it over so you're welding flat rather than up or down would be preferable. Often just because a weld could be performed vertical doesn't mean that's necessarily ideal given your particular situation, equipment, or experience.
  10. I'm not gonna sugar coat this, I'd abandon that frame etc. and just make forging dies for the log splitter. That's going to work better and be safer. Those welds do not look trustworthy and the design of everything really suggests an unfamiliarity with forging press necessities. You need to have good strong welds and a good strong guide system.
  11. Another nice thing about 400 series is that, unlike 300's, they stick to a magnet... so if a surface grinder is a big part of your san mai process, like me, that works with the mag chuck on the machine.
  12. Great video! My favorite part though is Busta with "Gimme Some More" in the background at 4:30... I rock that stuff too pretty often when forging!
  13. Hey Joshua, I didn't see until now that you'd posted this here! Jeez, I need to visit the Forums more often.... Anyway, thanks a lot! I'm having a blast with all my pattern welding tooling...
  14. Hi you smiths! Been a while, here's some pics and a bit of preamble. The first pic is of a dagger, with 13" turkish puzzle pattern blade and basket twist handle with takedown construction, w's pattern bolsters and bronze finials. I made it this summer. The second I'm not sure if I have shown here... it was from 2016 as I recall, and is another basket twist handle, this one with the quillons integral to the grip, with bronze accents, and a 17" blade of merovingian twist with CruForgeV edges. The third I'm sure I did show here, in 2014, but the pic is so much better than mine that I t
  15. Killer! I can see the Cimms influence clearly... you could do a whole lot worse than learning from that guy. I like your approach to the layout here.
  16. The old Rupert Wenig burners that Reil talked about on the ABANA page were 1-1/4" tubes with a bell reducer. They used a #52 drill for a gas jet which is just about 1/16". I built one long ago and it did work well, although quite fuel hungry at higher pressures. The other day we were building a first forge for a student, and the gas jet for a 1" burner turned out to want to burn well at #55 drill, which is a 52 thou orifice.
  17. What?? They were absolutely meant to last this long, and longer. Nothing wrong with a wrought body anvil at all. I love my wrought Peter Wright. You're not supposed to forge really heavy stuff over the horn anyway, it's not very efficient. The horn is for bending, and if you have a piece so big that it's endangering your wrought anvil horn, that's far too big to be trying to bend by hand on the horn anyway. Don't worry about it, man. This anvil of yours is in no way inferior to modern anvils, in fact it may well have a somewhat harder top than you'll find in most modern anvils. It looks
  18. It's an excellent turning wood as long as you keep your tools sharp. It is also an excellent carving wood, in terms of holding fine detail- but likes to be scraped rather than cut to a finish. It's very hard so cutting it takes sharp tools and some effort. The grain is usually pretty straight and it's not as splintery as ebony can be. To finish it, I like to sand up to 1000 grit, rub light machine oil on it, buff lightly with pink no-scratch compound. Usually the grain is closed but sometimes open grain/pores will surface; spot sanding with super glue to fill works well.
  19. Hey man! Yeah I just posted it in reply over on my dagger thread, but it needs to live here, too! Enjoy...
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