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Salem Straub

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Everything posted by Salem Straub

  1. Thanks guys! The jellyroll for this was laddered first, to give wave to the line The billet was only 5 thick layers, so it's bold as well as squiggly I call this "rose rolls." The effect has been more pronounced in some of my other work, for example:
  2. I think Brian D. may be on to something- at this point I'd suspect possibly delamination of a section of rubber.
  3. Here's a look at my latest finished work, a liner lock folder.It features my own "rose roll" mosaic steel on the blade, with bolsters of endgrain crushed w's.The liners are titanium, and the scales are african blackwood.The pivot is hidden under the dovetailed bolsters, and it has a nice firm detent to keep it safe...The overall length open is 7.5", and the cutting edge is 3-3/8" in length.It weighs 3.65 oz. all told.Pics and a vid, enjoy! Thanks for looking!
  4. Those are majestic! Don't have any dies for a 300 Beadry do you?
  5. Well, I had enough of trying to track down hammers, afford them, dicker over price, lose deals from distance and competition... so I contacted my friend Larry Langdon and sure enough, he had a good project hammer to sell me. It's a #9 Beaudry Champion, the slack belt type, the 300 lb. model. It needs dies and a sow block. Overall it's not too badly worn but has a good surface rust coat from sitting idle in a warehouse in Seattle for decades. Larry threw in a jackshaft setup including 7.5 hp 1100 RPM 3 phase motor, a big flat pulley he fabricated for it, the right 3-groove sheaves to ach
  6. Collin, yes they are folded just as they look... actually tighter to begin with, so they wouldn't draw out too elongated. It's some press work, and then tongs work, and then press work, and then hammer work. Very hot, with lots of flux.
  7. Ok guys and gals (Dee? Anyone?) here are some finished pics of Aculeus, I for one was very happy to see it all together as a finished composition- I think the design succeeds visually, and in the hand it handles well as a weapon (short of actually getting into a fight with it!) I already shipped it out, sharp as hell, with stern yet affectionate instructions to serve its new master well...
  8. I wrap it in paper towel with tape, then with a leather caul, then clamp that very hard in the vise. The hammer blows I use to peen with are fairly light and gradual- took me maybe ten minutes of rap rap rapping to establish and then lock down the rivet head, first with domed punches, then with a mostly flat one around the edges in particular. I'm using about a 10 oz. ball pein hammer.
  9. Thanks a bunch guys! I appreciate the kind words. Yeah, so the coffee etch... I'd been hearing a lot about it for a couple years. At first I'd been using the boiling water method to set oxides, and that's certainly better than nothing, but my results were at times still disappointing. Then I went to parkerizing after a deep FeCl etch, which really works great but also has its drawbacks. I think parkerizing will remain in my toolbox since it's so effective and I have the setup to do it now, but that 190f temp and the heavy chemical nature of it isn't right for every piece. Plus, it's very
  10. Thanks man! OK, now a few more shots, and bedtime. Finishing the grinds up to 400 grit on the grinder, and thinning out even more towards the tip, to make it faster... Hand sanding... Everything now up to 400 grit, hand rubbed. Fittings are fine wrought iron, very light slag streaking- it ends up looking almost like cast pewter when etched.Kind of, dare I say, tactical? Logo etched and masked... Making stupid strong instant coffee, 2 gallons, for the finish. My first try at "folgerizing." After depth etch in FeCl, into the super strong cooled-down i
  11. Thanks for the good words guys, I'm happy to hear my thread is of some value or inspiration! Here's a bit more for now... and them I'm heading out to finish assemble it tonight! Handle block roughing on the lathe. Checking the tenon fit for the pommel. Flutes cut in. Combo of pull/hook scraper, modded chainsaw file, and ball burr. Handle all fit up, now fittings will get final polish and etch. First successful try-fit of all parts. Now the blade also gets polished and etched...
  12. Since this thread started with the composite bars already forged, I forgot to mention my new twisting machine... I built it a few weeks ago. This is the first blade I've gotten to try it on, works well and is powerful yet controllable. Here's a one-handed video of twisting a test bar of mild steel. It's a 3 phase gear motor that puts out 25 rpm, variable via VFD from 10-50 RPM, and fwd/rev...
  13. Some fun colors, post-temper. Them twists are cool in purple! Doing a more detailed, dimensioned drawing for the fittings... Guard design and layout, from paper to scribed on steel. Cut out with bandsaw and profile ground. Hack machining on my 1960's Index 645 knee mill. Guard fit up for now, sculpting to follow... Fittings roughed in and mild steel tang extension welded on... fluted blackwood grip next!
  14. I had a request from a customer to make a short sword inspired by "Sting" from LOTR. I've been taking a lot of liberties with the design! Here are some pics with captions to share the process... I'm not quite done yet, hopefully tomorrow I'll peen the tang down finally. 2 edge bars of 1400 layer hi-density, with 2 twist cores of 13 layers each. Surface grinding pattern bars... Twist and hi-density bars ready for layup into billet. "Sunobe" is the Japanese word for a forged sword pre-form. In this case though it will be a double edged leaf blade, and is m
  15. That's a very satisfying knife to look at. Excellent, clean work there!
  16. Hey JPH, I feel ya... to find a true student who will really become passionate and dedicated to the craft is quite tough. Plenty will come and give it a try, but the sheer work involved and the initially slow-seeming pace of progress turns most away in short order. With others, location or life in general get in the way... Sounds like what you wish for is a disciple. Not just a person to teach some methods to, but someone who can value and carry on your Way. And, you deserve that... I don't know if a lot of kids these days know much about where the craft has come from, and its journey th
  17. I see your ram guide has been notched a bit for the toggle links on the sides, which is common. Your bottom die may be pretty short, contributing to the toggle links possibly hitting the ram guide at the bottom of the stroke. You'll want to adjust the crosshead/pitman arm so that the top die rests 1.5" from the lower die at bottom of stroke, not running, no prop. And this, with the linkage tightened enough that the toggle links are pretty near level to each other across their tops, not hanging much at all with the weight of the ram. This being quite an old hammer, it looks as though you m
  18. You're not kidding Gary, to get multibar twist to look good is SO wasteful... sometimes it makes me feel a bit irresponsible.
  19. I can't wait to see how that comes out, what are you going to make with it, Gary?
  20. I use Merovingian twist sometimes... as I understand it, it's a starting billet of fine layers on top, three or even five thick layers in the middle, and fine layers on the bottom. Rodrigo Sfreddo has re-popularized it lately, and now some folks like the DesRosiers and Manuel Quiroga (his knife above) have been using it to excellent effect. The inner and outer bars here are mero, you can see what they look like ground into to differing degrees, a layup of 39-5-39. The fuller blade with clean edges here has mero in a different layup, as I recall maybe 13-3-13 layers. Kind of a differen
  21. Here’s my latest non-culinary blade creation... I posted over in the sales area, and some folks commented on it over there, but now that it's sold I wanted to bring it in here in case anyone else might see it and find it interesting! The overall theme of this dagger is one of selecting disparate swordly elements and combining them in a dagger size and conformation. The wire-wrap grip is more of a renaissance Italian feature, while the wheel pommel and quillon guard can be found on medieval arming swords of Oakeshott typology. The grip itself is a carved walnut c
  22. Ah, Ok, thanks Gary! Yep very cool knife!
  23. Let me just be the latest person to echo this picture... man is it easy on the eyes, that spacer between pommel and block is such a nice little touch... I also like the side-on shot of that wheel pommel, showing the taper to the rim, which answered some questions I'd recently had.
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