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Tiaan Burger

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Tiaan Burger last won the day on November 27 2015

Tiaan Burger had the most liked content!

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About Tiaan Burger

  • Birthday 01/08/1970

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Pretoria, South Africa
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Traditional Japanese metalwork
  1. Two higonokami friction folders

    I have these two higonokami friction folders available on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/shop/tiaanburgermetalart Should you wish to purchase but do not want to go through Etsy, send me a private message. The copper handled one with the rose is priced at US$300, add $30 for shipping via courier. The iron handled one with the bunny is priced at $450, add $30 for shipping via courier. Yes, airmail is cheaper, but it takes up to six weeks, during which time I am worried sick. With the courier I can track the package from point to point, and it takes five to seven days. Specs for the copper handled folder: The blade is made of Bohler's K510, differentially hardened and tempered for tough blade with a hard edge. Handle length: 3 3/4" (95mm) Blade lenght: 3 1/8" (80mm) Blade width: 5/8" (16mm) Specs for the iron handled folder: Blade length: 3 3/16" (80mm). Blade width: 17/32" (13.5mm) Blade material: W1 tool steel, differentially hardened and tempered, hand rubbed finish Handle length: 3 3/4" (94mm) Handle materials: Wrought iron, sterling silver, fine silver, bronze pin. Techniques used: hon-zogan, nunome-zogan Thank you for taking the time to look at my work.
  2. A rose for Valentine's

    Thank you! Yes,it is done by hand, using a punch with a cupped tip. On this one I used the smallest cup tip punch I have made to date. Here is a link to a short clip by Ford Hallam: Nanako Below is a cropped part of one of my photos. Not as good as I want it to be, maybe another little higonokami or two to get there.
  3. A rose for Valentine's

    Another higonokami I finished this week, but probably not in time for Valentines day unless I get a local buyer. Copper handle with a hand carved raised inlay and nanako texture. Each nanako dot is 0.4mm in diameter. Handle was patinated using rokusho the sealed with three layers of baked-on urushi. I'm one of the 5% who is not allergic to urushi. The blade was forged out of a piece of Bohler's K510, a W1 equivalent. Edge quenched for a hard edge. Thank you for looking, questions and comments welcome.
  4. Higonokami

    Brian, thank you. Simplicity is one of what I call "The Deeper Rules" of making things.
  5. Two stilettos and a kitchen knife

    I have sold the dragon stiletto and the san-mai kitchen knife. The stiletto with the vines and the ginkgo knife is still available at reduced prices.
  6. Higonokami

    Thank you. Yes, it is a raised silver inlay. First cut to shape, inlaid into the handle, then carved.
  7. Higonokami

    I made the handle about a year ago, but as I did not have a decent forging setup at the time I delayed on making the blade. Having moved into a new home since then I managed to set up a smithy suitable for small work. The first items I forged were a couple of blades for higonokami folders as they are some of my favourite knives to make and embellish with carvings and inlays. Blade length: 3 3/16" (80mm). Blade width: 17/32" (13.5mm) Blade material: W1 tool steel, differentially hardened and tempered, hand rubbed finish Handle length: 3 3/4" (94mm) Handle materials: Wrought iron, sterling silver, fine silver, bronze pin. Techniques used: hon-zogan, nunome-zogan The handle dimensions are based on that of a kozuka (lit small handle) used on the kogatana, the small side knife carried in a katana or wakizashi scabbard. Thank you for looking, questions and comments welcome!
  8. Small craft knife WIP

    Thank you all for the kind words. I finally got to writing the blog post about this making of this knife. It can be read HERE and if you like it please do subscribe!
  9. Two stilettos and a kitchen knife

    Finished photos, listed on Etsy for US$820, more details on the Show and Tell thread HERE Visit my Etsy shop HERE
  10. Small craft knife WIP

    This knife is finished, the last bit of work was to do the last couple of leaves, then I had to get rid of all the chisel marks using a deft touch with a very sharp scraper. Final finish was applied using abrasive powder and a toothbrush, followed by patina, then the highlights were brought up by brushing with finely crushed charcoal.
  11. Two stilettos and a kitchen knife

    You will see in my post on Show and Tell that I have started working on this little craft knife again. At first I deactivated the listing on Etsy, but this morning I decided to reactivate it. I'll post a new photo every day, and update the price according to my jobcard. For more info go to my Etsy listing
  12. Small craft knife WIP

    Some more progress on this little knife: All the inlays are in, and I have gone over the background with a "nanako"punch. I also started sculpting the first leaf By last night I have rough sculpted four of the leaves, hoping to have the sculpting done today. More pics to follow, thanks for looking
  13. Small craft knife WIP

    Hi Clifford I posted a series of pics here: https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/36501-home-made-ball-vise/ I hope this helps.
  14. Home made ball vise

    In response to a query by Clifford Brewer on my post in Show and tell I have dug up the photos of the ball vise I made. The first photos show its first incarnation, dissassembled. All the parts except the bolts were sourced at a scrap yard. Tool used was an angle grinder, pillar drill, appropriate taps for threading and a gas torch for melting the lead for the ball. The first attempt was heavy enough for use with push gravers where one hand holds the ball vise jaws and the other the graver, but for carving with hammer and chisel it was much too light. I replaced the ball with a larger one. Basically a 6" dia steel sphere cut in half, filled with lead. The base plate was placed on the molten lead, two steel rods across its top and weights placed on top . this cancelled the tendency for steel to float on molten lead and I could get the top of the base plate level with the side of the sphere. The little hole on the side is for a stop pin. The jaw base in place. The rows of holes are for adjusting the fixed jaw. This is to enable me to roughly centre the workpiece. The loose jaw with its hinge pin. The whole thing assembled. The bolt on the side is showing for illustration. Its head drops into a recess as can be seen in the next photo. Side view. ruler is graduated in cm/mm. I use leather on the jaw faces.
  15. Small craft knife WIP

    It's been a while since I posted a show and tell. I started a blog, and need photos to go along with the stories, so you guys are now unwitting victims of my relentless pursuit of infamy. I finished this little craft knife about a week ago. I then listed it on Etsy and posted it here on the For Sale forum. This morning, on my way to mailing a parcel that is going all the way to California I stopped at a garden where there is a ginkgo tree growing a couple of yards inside the fence. We had a bit of a storm last night, so I managed to pick a number of fallen leaves off the ground outside the fence without having to trespass. I love ginkgo leaves, having used them as a theme for a couple of years and I always keep a couple of leaves for reference. With our move two months ago all my dried leaves got crushed. Back home I considered the day's work when inspiration struck. I immediately deactivated the Etsy listing for this knife; don't want it to sell while I am busy tripling its value! I did a couple of layout sketches, each leaf a simple half rounds with a stem. When I was happy with the composition I made a number of copies, cut each leaf from the paper and glued it onto the metal I chose for the inlays: Copper, brass and nickel silver Each leaf was then sawn using a jeweller's saw fitted with a 0/5 blade. I broke only three in the process. Each is sawn at a slight angle, the bottom of the inlay must be larger than the top to allow the raised edge of the pocket to trap the inlay when the edge is tapped down with a punch. From the right, 1 - copper, 2 - nickel silver, 3 - brass, 4 - copper, 5 - nickel silver, 6 - brass and 7 - copper. I transferred the layout from one of the copies using carbon paper, then went over the outlines with a permanent marker. In the pic below you can see that the first copper leaf is in place, and I have raised the edges and started cutting the hollow for the nickel silver leaf that fits against it. After carving it will look like the nickel silver leaf is partially beneath the edge of the copper leaf. It takes some careful filing of the abutting edge to ensure a tight fit. All inlay and carving work is done using hammer and chisels, I also use various punches to set the raised edges. Next instalment I'll show a bit more of the inlay process and the carving. Thank you for looking, questions, comments welcome. Tiaan