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Robert Carter

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Everything posted by Robert Carter

  1. Knife #7 1075 aldos 5.5 inch blade Cocobolo, ebony and elk enter handle. Differentially heat treated. Traded making this for a bandsaw and a planer. Having trouble letting it go now......
  2. Jake. I actually used 1/4 ich thick red oak. I cut 3 pieces out on my laser with precision 1/8 inch dowel holes in the thicker section. Then I doweled and glued it together with titebond 2 wood glue and sanded the dowel ends off. I won't be able to use the laser when I make the metal version but it really sped up the prototype process. This could be possible with a drilI press and files but i would make the hole first. Then drill dowel holes. Then glue together and shape with a belt or disk sander. Or do a solid 1 piece with no glue the same way.
  3. Magna is my name, I am the spiders bane. This is my take on sting. Based entirely on the carton version of the hobbit that I watched as a kid. It is the blade that inspired me to want to make knives in the first place. I hope I will not bore anyone as this is a wooden model of a blade that I will make in steel. Preferably Damascus once I have gotten a little better at forgewelding. It is a 14" blade and 21" overall. Made of red oak and poplar. Cord and leather wrapped handle. Consider this a proof of concept piece that let me try a few new techniques without wasting a bunch of material
  4. It is a surprisingly comfortable knife. The carved design forms an apple seed shape wide part on top near the blade and a reversed apple seed shape near the rear thus leaving a hollow for the meat of the hand. Hopefully, you guys can understand what I am trying to explain. But it is a very comfortable knife. I gave it to my nephew who had done me a huge favor a long time ago and had requested that I make him something in repayment. It took me 10 years to get around to it but I think that it was worth the wait. There is about 30 hours in the knife when it was finished.
  5. I have done a lot of custom pistol grips as part of a previouse employment.
  6. I made this a while back and just got around to posting it. This is my fourth completed knife. I hope you all enjoy. 7.5" 1075 blade with interrupted water quench. Handle is Elk antler shed with coco bolo and copper fittings. Everything was done by hand. Forged then filed to shape. 1500 grit finish. I am not sure what style of knife this is other than kind of a pukka crossed with a tanto. It pretty mucheap organically came together once I made the blade shape. I let the materials inspire me in the forms.
  7. After making knives these are a piece of cake. I just use mY 4 x 36 belt grinder a little bandsaw and a drill press and a few files glue paracord. They are really cheap to make.
  8. Sorry that was supposed to say tolkien not tolline.
  9. So I was in the shop the other say and 8 cooked up this glamdring inspired object for my nephew's Christmas present. Needless to say there a a few tolline fans in our family. (Pretty much all of us). Pine ground to shape with spray paint and cord wrapped handle and we habe a boys dream of a wooden sword. I hope you all enjoy this even if it is not in steel. I hope one day to make something similar but right now I'm only on my third knife.
  10. I am working on polishing up a handle for.knife #3. I am using some sandbar stag antler. I do not have access to a buffing wheel but I would like to polish the antler anyway. Does anyone have a good technique is series of grits etc that they would use for this purpose?
  11. All I can say is wow. I love your unique style and I look forward to your next knife.
  12. I worked for a company that produces knives and I can say that we made g 10 handles and it tapped just fine. The brass inserts we put in were for the ignorant not because they were stronger. We were putting in fine screw threads that when tested the screws broke before the g 10 could strip out. Don't be surprised if your tap is no good afterwards unless it is carbide. G10 is hideously abrasives on tools.
  13. Very nice work on the sheath and handle. Love it.
  14. I followed Jakes advice and it worked exactly as he said. I did however see afterwards that 3 micro fractures had started near the tip. I did the 3 second interrupted quench in water then into canola oil wit h both warmed to about 120 degrees farenheit. Would this be due to heating the blade too fast? Also the blade was dead straight before quench but curved upwards during. Is lthis due to the water, or the blade geometry?
  15. Thanks guys. I am using a propane forge that u built myself wit h a burner built after the Zoeller forge z-burner. A question to jake, you mentioned heating the water first out of the tap or kettle. Out of curiodity why heat the water? I really appreciate you guys taking the time to answer.
  16. If you were to use aldo's 1075 and just your forge without a Pyro meter to tell what temp you are at, what series of steps would be recommended to achieve a good heat treat with an active hamon? Please Pardon my ignorance if this is an easy question but I am new to the mysteries of heat treating and do not have a lot of expensive equipment. For the sake of argument assume a pukka shaped blade 5.5 inch blade 1.125 inches wide at widest and .1875 inches at thickest point. Specifics are appreciated. Including clay prep.
  17. This is indeed only my second finished knife. I think that compositionally speaking it is much better than the first(posted here http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=21144). However, I do not think that I am just naturally talented, I have a lot of experience in hand finishing as I manage a production facility that manufactures pistol grips. I worked my way up from the ground floor and have done everything from cnc programing to the actuall hand finishing of the product. Those years of experience in shaping grips lends well to knife finishing. If anyone is interested I mig
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