Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by Einar

  1. On 1/28/2021 at 9:30 PM, clint c said:

    That looks great, excellent design.  What size wheel did you use for that grind?  Clint


    Its a flat grind. It does look like a hollow grind in the pics, but thats a trick of the light.

    On 1/29/2021 at 4:01 AM, Doug Lester said:

    Outstanding knife.  I'm sure that your workmate will be thrilled.



     Thanks, we'll see on monday :)

  2. 14 cm blade, 27 cm overall. 4.3 mm thick
    Silver steel (115CrV3) blade
    Beech burl handle scales with stainless steel pins

    A present for my workmate Simon.

    No hand sanding on this blade. Just 120 grit belt finish straight off the belt grinder.



    • Like 6
  3. On 11/19/2020 at 9:41 PM, Adair said:

    Hello there, 

    Could you tell me more about building a blade in this manner?  What tool steel did you use and what welding process?  I've been wanting to build a polearm forever.  I've tried making them from big circular saw blades but making big fussy forge welds has proven too elusive (for the style of halberd I'd like to make).  Your technique looks very appealing. 



    Hi, sorry I missed this reply, I havent been checking in on the forums much lately.


    I dont know the excact steel I used for the edge. Its a spring steel, probably something along the lines of 1060.


    I did not do any forge welding. I arc welded the spring steel edge to the mild steel blade. If you attempt that, you should preheat the pieces first. 200-250 degress Celsius should be enough. If you try to weld without preheat, you might get cracks along the welds. On my bardiche there are very fine cracks along the welds on one side of the blade. They were completely invisible to the naked eye until after the etching, when they started to stand out as fine lines of rust.  

  4. On 5/18/2020 at 2:00 AM, Martin Brandt said:

    Regarding welding hardenable steel.  Bring the steel up to tempering temp.  400F or so, then weld and let cool.  A second heat and temper wouldn't hurt for safety.  The weld puddle will be over the quenching temp for hardening and without pre heating the surrounding steel in effect acts as a heat sink and quenches the puddle and surrounding steel and hardens it, but with large coarse grain and no temper.   A pre heat at least tempers the new martensite and reduces stress a bit.  Triple normalizing should relieve stress and reduce grain size even more, and if you can overweld and forge it down to size, then triple normalize, that to me would be the best for strength.


    Thanks, I'll remember to do this the next time I weld hardenable steel. 

  5. 15 hours ago, Harry Marinakis said:

    Every time that I've tried twisting wire with a drill, I end up with a giant spring. When I release tension on the twisted wire, the thing immediately balls up into a tight bird's nest. However, every time I see someone else do it, that bird's nest never happens.


    I'm not twisting any more tightly than what I see here in these videos, so What am I doing wrong?



    Reverse the direction of the drill and spin it back for a little while. But its hard to judge if you have spun it back enough, so I always pinch the wire TIGHTLY between thumb and forefinger when I release it from the drill. Then I gradually ease off the pressure and let it spin until it has sprung back as much as it needs to. 

  6. 2 hours ago, Daniel W said:

    I've never been 100% sure on that method myself. Heat it just before you do a welding pass, or attempt to normalize it before arc welding it.


    I could do the same thing throw some acid on it to see how bad they are.


    I ground out all the visible voids I could see yesterday, and nothing went as deep as I thought. Worst part is that section of the eye. 


    Overall, I got in a big rush to try and making something out of this as I've been called back to permanent night shift and my hopes of making anything for the next year are gone. I may just leave it cleaned up and profile ground and dream about making one the right way one day.


    The way I've been told is that it should already be hot when you start welding to keep the rest of the piece from acting like a heat sink. So, put  the whole thing in the forge, get it up to temp, then weld, and let the whole piece air cool. I should give it a go myuself on some scrap spring steel and see how it goes. 

  7. 21 hours ago, Daniel W said:

    After the rough grind I found one of the mig welds cracked


    I've never tried it myself, but I have always heard that before arc welding on hardenable steel, you should pre heat to avoid cracks. IIRC, if you dont preheat, you can get cracks because the material hardens and shrinks and then cracks. I welded the edge on a bardiche I made, (no pre heat) and the cracks along the edge were completely invisible until I etched the blade to antique it. Not sure how hot it should be when you weld it, but probably above termpering heat. 

  8. 7 hours ago, Brian Dougherty said:

    For some patterns you need two wires twisted opposite directions.  However, you need to keep the twist rate the same on both.  I've had really good luck doing this by setting my cordless drill to it's slowest speed, and using a stopwatch or a timer to make sure I twist both strands the same amount of time. (In opposite directions)  The few revolutions of difference I am undoubtedly getting between the two strands isn't noticeable over the 10 or 15 feet of wire. 


    I just make sure that the wires are equal length, twist one until I am happy with the rate of twist, note how much shorter it got during the twisting, and when twisting the other strand the oposite way, I make sure they shortened by the same amount. 

    • Like 2
  9. 13 hours ago, Gerhard Gerber said:

    I plan on making something like a Spanish dagger with many firsts for me, including a wire wrapped handle, so thank you, some timely advice, thanks.


    I was more worried about twisting the wire than wrapping the handle thanks to having wrapped many eyes to many fishing rods, bit of false logic I realise now.


    Twisting the wire is pretty easy. I use a little hook in a cordless drill, like he does in the video. I will add a bit of advice though: When you've twisted it as tightly as you want it, run the drill back in the oposite direction for a bit to ease off the tension in the wire. If you just slip the wire off the hook without doing that, the wire will spin quite violently and the whole strand might corkscrew. So spin it back for quite a few revolutions, and keep a firm grip on it when you take it off the hook, so you can ease the tension off it.


    • Thanks 2
  10. 21 hours ago, Dave Stephens said:

    I like it, but . . . 

    You're making a grip with a perfectly round hole through it. This seems to imply that the tang of the sword would also be perfectly round (like the all thread rod of the jig). If so, what's to keep the grip from spinning? Just epoxy? 




    In the second video I linked, they use a similar jig but with a tang shaped flat bar welded onto the rod. Not sure what he does in the first video. I think he just really cranked the nuts that hold the handle in place until it doesnt move just from the friction. Thats what I tried to do, but I was afraid of splitting, with too much torque, so I experienced some slippage of the grip on the rod. By the way, his tang hole is only round at the back end of the grip. On the front end, the hole is rectangular. On the handle that I made, its just a drilled hole, because I just wanted to try out the jig, its not a handle for a specific project, just a test piece. 

  11. 25 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

    I thought about it some more and decided I was incorrect. So I deleted the post.

    But, your plan would work and eliminate whatever play does occur.


    BTW-I wouldn't worry about cracking the wood by tightening the nuts down. The compressive strength of wood on th end grain is pretty high. That's why wood columns work so well in construction.


    Yeah, good point about the compression strength of the wood. And it was hickory after all. Wood doesnt come much stronger than that, so it would probably easily take the strain. 

    • Like 1
  12. 18 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

    I thought about that for a moment. If the false tang is undersized, there will still be a bit of play.

    As the bar rotates toward you, it makes contact with the insides of the tang slot in the handle. as you pull tension on the wire/string, you move the handle forward and release the flat bar. You will always be playing give and take. Am I over thinking this?


    You may be right, but the way I am imagining it, i would put the flat bar roughly in the middle of the rod, and since the tang hole in the handle tapers, just slide the handle up until the flat bar wedges firmly inside the handle. I'll try it out and update the thead and tell you if it worked or not.

  13. 7 minutes ago, Alex Middleton said:

    Pretty cool.  Thanks for sharing.  Great job on your wrap, the copper wire really sets it off.  I'm going to have to add this jig to my "to build" list.


    Thank you! I have one of those lists too. Keeps getting longer...

  14. I will be modifying the jig slightly, because just having a the threaded rod through the grip, I had trouble with it slipping under tension. I was a bit afraid of tightening the nuts too much and cracking the wood. I'll weld a false tang in the middle of the rod, like in this video, at 25 minutes and 30 seconds in. I dont even think it needs to be tang sized, just a small flat bar would be enough to stop it slipping.



  15. 23 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

    Ooh, right you are!  I learned the leather and string thing from Peter Johnsson where you literally stand on the string to maintain tension while wrapping,  but a ratcheting crank is much more punk. B)


    Yup, I believe he had a thread on this forum, which is where I learned how to do it. Fell in love with that kind of grip when I bought an Albion sword.

  16. 10 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

    That is slick indeed!  Personally I couldn't live with a synthetic grip core, but I understand. 


    I wouldnt really mind a synthetic core as long as I dont see the plastic. I used hickory for my attempt though. I'll try to use this jig next time I do a leather wrapped handle too. I like to do the kind of grips where you tightly wrap the leather with string to make a texture in the leather, and I bet this jig will work nicely for that too. 

  17. I watched this video on wire wrapped handles on "That Works" youtube channel, and the jig he uses is so brilliantly simple, I just had to make one myself. I've done wire wrapped handles before, but this jig, and the toothpick trick he uses makes it SO much easier.

    The brilliant thing with this jig is the little ratchet wrench you mount on it which only lets the handle turn one way, so you can keep tension on the wires easily.


    Here is my first attempt at using the jig. I used 0.5 mm steel wire, and 0.6 mm copper wire.




    • Like 4
  18. On 4/24/2020 at 2:11 PM, Alan Longmire said:

    I like it.  B)


    On 4/24/2020 at 4:15 PM, Bjorn Gylfason said:

    It's single edged so I automaticly like it and it has really nice proportions too

     Thanks, guys! I appreciate it!

  19. 11 hours ago, Kevin Colwell said:

    I like it. The handle wrap is a good touch, if not traditional. 

    Thanks! Yeah, I just prefer a wrapped handle instead of bare wood, unless it's a really nice burl or something. 


    2 minutes ago, AJ Chalifoux said:

    Though not common, Messers very much like this certainly existed (even without Nagels or side rings). Great work! It looks and sounds like a beautiful hand-and-a-half sword.


    Thank you, I was hoping that it wasnt too far out of the realm of realism. 

  • Create New...