Einar

Thanks for the reply. I agree with mr Don Abbott, every time I see a new thread by you, I know we're in for a treat.

I've tried a couple of others, but the Cubitron II discs are by far the most aggressive ones. In my experience they cut much faster than a grinding wheel. They are pricey though.

Thats some impressive grinding for sure. I cant wait to see the finished swords. I mainly use an angle grinder as well, and would recommend that you try 3M's Cubitron fibre discs and a hard backing plate. I use the 36 grit ones for hogging off material. They grind completely flat, and remove material much faster than a normal grinding wheel. They leave a nicer, flatter surface as well so if you're going for a flat grind, they will really cut down on the time you have to spend filing.

That top one looks evil!! I love it.

That is gorgeous. I absolutely love the contrast between the highly polished blade/grip and the textured guard. How is that texture achieved? Is it carved and brushed?

Very nice. I like that you kept the 24 mm text instead of grinding it away.

I like it. And yeah, its this forum and in particular Owen's seaxes that made me fall in love with these knives. I hope one day to make one on the scale of the huge seax referred to as the "Little Bealings Seax". I've seen Peter Johnsson's version of it on this forum and thats one of the most stunning weapons I've seen.

Aha, thank you, Collin. So is it called that in historical seaxes, or is it a particular style of Owens that I have copied without permission? (Please dont sue me Owen, I have no intention of selling this)

Thank you, Austin. The point where I really wished for that belt grinder was actually when I was making the 10 mm thick pommel. Getting that thing to follow the shape of the grip with an angle grinder and files really made me wish I could lay it on a platen and get it nice and straight and true. Its a 10 minute job that took me hours. Yes, I thought to myself; "What this needs is a Kentish Notch, and thats what I did. I... uhm notched the hell out of that thing... (Goes off to google Kentish notch) Alan, what is a Kentish notch? And thank you for the kind words, sir. Thank you, Collin, I was most happy with that kentish notch. (Googles again, finds reference leading back to this very forum with no explanation) Is it the curved slope of the clip you guys mean? Thats one of the things that made me fall in love with Owens seaxes, I just think its a very elegant look. I'm quite happy with my name, thanks. My full name means something like Outstanding Warrior Daddy from Thunder Bay, which sounds a lot cooler in english than in norwegian. Its also 100% inaccurate. I dont even have kids.

Thank you. The shape is heavily influenced by a shorter Seax I purchased from Owen Bush.

This is my second sharp blade, a large broken back seax. Its all stock removal, no forging. 5 inch angle grinder and files were used to shape and grind the blade. (I really really need to get myself a belt sander) Blade length is 45 cm (17.7 inches) Hilt is 20 cm (7.8 inches) It had a 20 inch blade originally, but I ground the fuller too deep and broke through in one spot, so I had to cut away roughly a 2 inch section of the blade. There was cursing. Lots of it. 6 mm thick at the clip, which is the thickest and broadest part of the blade. Its is a full "V" grind from back to edge with a deep fuller. Its made from Nablo 5026 spring steel. (About the same as 1060) The grip is birch, wrapped with 0.6 mm steel thread, twisted in a herringbone pattern. Mild steel bolster and pommel. (I have no idea why the pics show up upside down on the forum. They are the other way round in the direct links in my browser)

I love this weapon, its slim, its elegant, beautifully done, Lukas. And thanks so much for providing the Zornhau links. That is a fantastic resource for those of us who dont have access to originals. I had a look around their site and found even more data sheets here: http://www.zornhau.de/category/fachartikel/

Thank you for the feedback, guys.

Looking forward to seeing the finished sword. Its looking fantastic so far.

Sorry, I tried the search function on the forum and came up with nothing, so I made this thread, but now I tried google, and it found multiple threads on the subject on this forum. I'm off to do some reading

I have seen that some smiths quench their blades up to three times, aparently to reduce the grain size, If I understood it correctly. But isnt this also achieved when normalising multiple times before a single quench? Is there a difference between normalising three times and then quenching once, or quenching multiple times?

SO beautiful. And that does look eerily like the horsehead nebula. Just say it was on purpose. So the edge bevel (sorry, I dont know the japanese term) goes higher on the unfullered side of the blade? Does that affect how it tracks in a cut?

I cant stop looking at this thing. Its gorgeous.

lol thanks. I wasnt sure what to call it, so sword-thing it is. Its a bit dha-ish I suppose.

Lol thats the way to do it, I reckon. Congratulations.

Thank you, Mark and Peter. It wont take too long before I post my next blade. I've been hard at work all day and have a big broken back seax tempering in the kitchen oven as I write this.

Thank you, Alan. A wonderful feeling, yes. The joy of creating. Its not made from a leaf spring, its made from one of the blades of one of these things (I have no idea what theyre called in english. A fairly common winter transportation thingy in scandinavia.

Thats a good way of looking at it. And yeah, I'll be keeping it. I dont really have an ambition of selling the stuff that I will make. I want to make blades that I like, for myself first and foremost.

Not at all hijacking, I really appreciate it. That looks bigger than mine. I was a bit too scared of messing things up to attempt a full size sword for my first time.

I'd be chuffed to bits if my second one looks as nice as that. Definately inspiring, thank you, Randall. I'm thinking about a messer, falchion or seax as my next one. I want to get into straight double edged european swords, but I think I'll make a few curved single edged ones first, so i can learn a bit about how the steel behaves in heat treatment. Sabering a double edged blade thats supposed to be straight would be pretty demotivating.