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Matthew Marolt

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About Matthew Marolt

  • Birthday 12/22/1988

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    Austin, Texas

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  1. Thanks guys! I may give the jewelers laquer a try. Would it be safe in the kitchen?
  2. Thanks gentlemen I appreciate it. I was thinking of using renaissance wax but I'm looking for something that holds up better. I was think of some type of a clear coat of sorts.
  3. Dan, Here are a few pictures. It would have been wise to choose more contrasting materials but it's what I had. I made it from shim stock. It was my second attempt at making mokume and I think it came out fairly well. Any ideas on how to seal it? Thanks, Matt M.
  4. Hey guys! It's been a very long time since I have posted in the forums. I'm working on a textured brass/bronze mokume guard for a chef's knife. I have it all textured and polished and I'm looking for some type of etch or finish that will keep the mokume bright but yet give it some more contrast. I'm also looking for something to seal it with so it keeps the finish. Something that would be fine to use around food. I'll post pictures of the guard once I can get to my computer. Any ideas? Thanks, Matthew Marolt
  5. garrett its just the pictures. My crapy phone cant take great pictures. The grain looks pretty fine but I do agree it could be a bit smaller
  6. I dont believe there was any crack there. It did however crack right on a notch I filed on the spine. I think the discoloration was from me using the torch on the spine. I heated it to about that color then tried to torque it in straight. I believe thats what its from but, I could be wrong. I never saw a crack though I am going to salvage the blade. Just wont be done for the kith
  7. Thanks Dan! that's a great bit of advice! I did not agitate it at all. just a straight quench in transmission fluid. I've done the same with smaller 1095 blades and it seemed to work well. anyway, here are the pictures i promised
  8. So my kith originally started as a five layer billet of 52100 and 1095, weighing around 2.5 to 3 pounds if i was to guess. Welded the layers together and drew it out to show five straight layers of steel. got the blade somewhat shaped. So far so good. BUT, after allowing it to cool I discovered a crack. Tried to seal it up but it wouldn't take. Took it to the grinder to see how deep it was. Nearly through the whole thinkness of the spine. So there went the first blade. :/ After my first failure I decided to start essentially the same blade but a bit smaller and straight 1095. Forged it completely out. This blade hardly touched the grinder at all. It was all forge work. Which would be my first blade to fully forge the profile and bevels. (what would have been my fourth knife) I was very proud of it! I normalized it twice thinking it would be enough. But I guess not. The blade slightly warped and bent during heat treat. I fully tempered the blade to a straw brown. After I tempered it I got out the torch and tried to straighten it up. So reading in the complete blade smith it says to place the blade in a vise with the "kink" sticking out about an inch or so. Using the torch heat a small section of the spine to the straw brown range and torque it in straight. Well I did as I read and ended up with about 2 inches of the tip in my tongs and the rest of the blade firmly in the vise. Obviously too much torque even though I felt I was being pretty gentle with it. The grain actually looks okay to my untrained eyes. Needless to say...I'm bowing down from the kith as I have no third backup and the deadline is tomorrow. I'll post pictures tomorrow. As I'm too tired and bummed to do so tonight. Maybe one of you guys can help me out with what went wrong?
  9. Thank you guys very much! Dan- I have quite a few blades on the bench waiting for handles (including a small chopper, pattern welded hunter, straight razor, filet knife). I get board with the designs of so many of the knives I start and end up leaving them on the table. Also I've messed up my share of blades. I guess I'm just too picky about what I see through the whole way. Doug- it is black palm. I love the way it looks but I don't like working with it much. I found that the black grain tended to crack when using even a fine file. Maybe it was just a bad end of the wood to use? Or maybe I was working it too hard? I agree with you about the carving and wrap. I just fell like it's missing something. Possibly a makers stamp or small carving?
  10. I've had this one finished for a few days now. Well i wouldn't say finished just yet. still needs a sheath but not sure what type of sheath would look good. Also, I can't decide if I want to put a braided or twisted wire wrap near the center of the handle or if I want to try my hand at doing a bit of carving on the handle. For my first hamon i thought it came out great! polished to 600 then etched it in straight ferric 3 times about 3-5 min each dip. polishing to 600 in between dip Also, not sure what "style" this blade would fall under or what to call it.. ideas and opinions are welcomed! I just realized that all the pictures I have are of the left side. I'll have to take some more pictures of the other side! Thanks for looking!
  11. I decided to weld up some mild steel to make some little things with. sorry for the blurry pictures. They were all taken with my phone. started with 13 layers. 1/8in mild and 26ga sheet steel. welded up the billet and drew it out I didn't grind the billet clean to make the folds or new welds. I was hoping it would leave some small cracks and cold shuts to give the finished product an old dirty look. Folded the billet twice to make 52 layers. Billet size is about 3/8in by 1 1/2in here I drew out the billet layer side up. so were still at 52 layers. billet is still about 3/8in by 7in. then I twisted it up and folded it once again. here it is drawn out to 3/8in by about 7in again. now the plan is to cut it into 3 pieces and weld them up to make an arrowhead for a necklace. more progress will be posted tomorrow! Merry Christmas to all! Matthew Marolt
  12. Thanks for the info! Now I have a project for tonight. Hopefully it'll be ready for heat treating tomorrow!
  13. Ahh bummer! Would it hurt to re mormalize then go through and heat treat?
  14. I'm very happy to say that the weather was kind enough to let me normalize my knife today! I normalized it slightly above critical, then right at critical twice, allowing it to cool fully in between heats. on the last heat I turned the forge off when it reached critical and let it cool with the forge for about 20 min or so then brought out to air cool. Now I have it all ready to heat treat! First Hamon! that comes tomorrow night! exiting
  15. Thanks guys! It looks like I might be able to work today. No rain so far.. We'll see how wet it is. Wish me luck!
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