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N. Runals

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About N. Runals

  • Birthday 06/13/1988

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  1. Yep, I use it for skiving as well. It works great and leaves a really nice finish on the flesh side.
  2. I have one of the first COAL 16 ton presses and it's great. They have only gotten better since the one I have was made. It will do everything you need it to do. Give Andy or Nate a call, they are great guys and they will answer any of your questions.
  3. I concede Alan, I just thinned out the oil in my blower and it went from getting 1-2 revolutions after stopping to 4-5... Probably woulda kept using the thick stuff till the day I died if you hadn't of said something haha.
  4. I totally feel you on being drawn to knives that serve a specific purpose, they are some of my favorite to make. Ask 10 hunters and you'll likely get 10 different answers as to what should and shouldn't be on a skinning knife. None of them are right or wrong. For me personally I don't like any of my cleaning or skinning knives to have guards. I feel they get in the way, and when I'm working with an animal I make sure to make clean precise cuts, if your knife is sharp it shouldn't take much pressure at all do beak down any part of the animal (except the sternum). I'm also not a fan of gut hooks at all, and when you are skinning you most likely have gotten all of the guts out already. These are just my opinions though, like I said to each his own. The only thing I see that I would say should be remedied is the line from the spine of the knife to the handle. The way the spine end of the handle kicks up would get in the way for skinning for me. I at times like to pinch the blade between thumb and forefinger and let the handle rest in the palm of my hand. Hope that makes sense, and again those are my personal preferences.
  5. Interesting, I've always used the thick stuff and never had a problem with it being hard to crank. I usually get at least one revolution when I stop cranking. Winter or summer doesn't seem to make much of a difference. I will try some thinner stuff next time it's needed and see what kind of a difference that makes. Thanks for the tip.
  6. Any thick molasses like gear oil will do the trick.
  7. That anvil looks like something I wouldn't spend a dime on. The seller claims it's not cast iron, but in his reviews people are complaining that the anvil isn't as heavy as it was advertised. In other words if he is lying about one aspect of the anvil it's not unreasonable to think they would be lying about another critical fact. Those two things combined would make me not think twice about leaving it behind. That being said I don't think I'd go with the NC either. I'm sure it would be an upgrade from what you have, but that being said you are likely to find something that will last the rest of your life if you look at antique anvils for not a whole lot more. My first anvil (which I understand was the best deal ever) was a 200# Peter Wright for $200
  8. I'm in. 1. Brian Dougherty 2. Timothy Artymko 3. Doug Crawford 4. JJ Simon 5. Scott Wright 6. Wesley Alberson 7. Robert Dowse 8. Kevin Hopkins 9. George Ezell 10. Michael Lenaghan 11. Dan Bourlotos 12. Aiden Carley-Clopton 13. Mike Andriacco ‚Äč14. Emiliano Carrillo 15. Francesco Muci 16. Juho Voutilainen 17. Pieter-Paul Derks 18. James Fuller 19. John Page 20. Nate Runals
  9. Using the end grain has never made much sense to me, in my experience if the knife is used at all or if the humidity changes even a little you have a great chance of checking or splitting. That being said, I haven't used much stabilized wood, I'm sure that is a whole different game.
  10. Wise words Dave! I couldn't agree more.
  11. Right back at ya Salem. I've been full time since 2010, and it can be draining as hell. It is an odd way to make a living, and I know that for myself I couldn't do it without my brothers and sisters in craft. Meeting and conversing in person is a must, but the forum does a great job in the interim... far better than anywhere else online.
  12. Classic Luke... There is another friend here who shall not be named that has a habit of leaving blades untempered for months at a time. Especially for mono-steel this isn't a huge issue in and of itself, except for the fact that you have fully hardened blades laying around the shop. I'd prefer to not take the risk of someone coming into the shop and start hacking at a stump with a full hard blade. What I'm saying is, why not temper asap?
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