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Adomas Sviklas

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About Adomas Sviklas

  • Birthday 06/01/1992

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  • Location
    Lithuania Vilnius / Kaunas
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, leather working, history, reconstruction, sculpture

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  1. I think guard could be inspired by mongolian weapons. Could be local bladesmiths experiment?
  2. Blade itself, apart from concave edge could be local. There is many front wider blades and few with T crosssection. But I think it could be from any century since it was found in lake. Also could be import, Yatvingian region was like a border, south front. During 13-14th there were many battles with Golden horde. So, easily could be something from East. Still need some similar examples.
  3. Yes, flat piece is guard and other is scabbord part. Archeologyst said it was found in wooden scabbord and no other parts. Maybe something lost. End of tang looks like riveted, so I guess there should be something more. My guess is also that it could be import. Although person working in museum said that one archeologyst noticed, that there is somehow similar sword in barrow buriel. Can't find documents from there to confirm, will have to contact polish archeologyst, they were first to excavate.
  4. Hi! So, I stumbled upon one interesting weapon in small village museum. Location is Baltic region, Lithuania, Leipalingis village. Sword was found not far from big barrow burial place in the lake. It is in a quite good condition, but there is almost no reaserch. Dated very roughly 9-11 century. But since it was found in lake, there is no proof. There is many single edged sword in this region, but they are usually very straight edged and often wider to the end, so this is okay. But curved edge is uncommon and it is not very likely for it to be sharpened so much. I haven't seen it with my own eyes, but I think cross-section is T shaped. And I have no comments about guard and part of scabbard. I would guess it is dated very wrongly. Spoke with archeologysts, but they can't tell anything useful. Have anyone seen similar blades? What are your thoughts? I need more information to better understand how to make a handle. Thank you in advance!
  5. Hi guys! I'm looking for steel to make damascus. Found local supplier selling L6, but a bit different composition than usual. This is what they give: 5XНВ / 55NiCrMoV7 / 1.2714 / L6 C 0.5-0.6 Mn 0.5-0.8 Mo 1.8-2.1 Cr 1-1.3 Ni 1.4-1.8 Carbon content is lower, wonder if it is still good enough for blades. What do you think? Would combine it with 90MnV8 / 1.2842 /O2 C 0.85-0.95 Mn 1.8-2.1 V 0.1-0.25 Thank you!
  6. This was a piece of wood I got long time ago and can't remember how it's called. Not local, some kind of exotic wood, very dense.
  7. It is U8 steel. http://www.splav-kharkov.com/en/e_mat_start.php?name_id=135
  8. Hi, after a very long time I decided to post again. These are three knives, one for father and two for sons. I had some nice and hard wood, but not sure what it is. Maybe someone have experience with it?
  9. Thanks. I don't like to combine handle materials as well, but I had to, so I did my best.
  10. Hi! Not long ago I got an order to make whole knife, with freedom to improvise. I guess this is every craftsman favorite thing. Mainly there was only one wish for it to have handle made out of brass, few different woods and maybe antler. This isn't the style I was doing before or what I like, but it was interesting and fun work. So this is the result. Handle - brass, antler, oak and birch burl. Blade is not laminated, but wrapped with pattern welded steel, so the back of the blade also have a pattern.
  11. I had to polish the underside of the T all by hand, with sandpaper. I couldn't use belt grinder for that, also I think it would be too dangerous to grind too much. I've made T-back just like Alan Longmire explained. I used vise with copper on both sides. Heat the blade very hot then quickly clamp it in vise and use rapid light blows with a ballpoint hammer, just like making a rivet. Although copper still bruised the blade a little bit, but I guess not as much as steel would have.
  12. No, quenching was successful, no bending or anything. Although I worked in a small forge so I had to move blade back and forward to heat all the blade, but as you can see from hamon it was good enough.
  13. Profile is T shaped so the blade could be thinner, but wouldn't bend.
  14. Hi! I've been absent here for some time, but I'll try to do better. A few month ago I asked how to make T-back blade and thanks to Your advice it was pretty easy. So here it is. About 48cm length.
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