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John Page

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John Page last won the day on December 6 2020

John Page had the most liked content!

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About John Page

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  • Birthday May 11

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    Half way between somewhere and nowhere
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    Bladesmithing, blacksmithing, Norse mythology, archery, cartography, woodworking

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  1. You can certainly grind it in, but it's also not too bad to forge. Do a classic overcurve to compensate for the edge spreading from forging in the bevel, but even more exaugurated, although you'll probably still need to forge on the long axis over the horn or other suitably not sharp cornered form. It doesn't induce an overly large amount of unwanted deformation to forge that sort of hook curve on a wedge shaped geometry for hot steel. Worst case you'll just need to flatten out the edge plane. A little baconing is not unusual, but also quick to fix.
  2. Truly fantastic! There's nothing quite like this sort of archeo-metallurgical exploration that gets me so excited. I really enjoyed the video and look forward seeing where you go from here! John
  3. Turns out that was easier than expected, I found 10 videos and a .pdf that I think is the dvd booklet. If there's an easier way of sending those over that's not the mail let me know! edited to add it's just under 20gb total
  4. If the infallible post office somehow falls through and Alan's copy is lost to the ether, I also have one somewhere, possibly also already on an old hard drive. I'll take a look and see if I can find it John
  5. Does anyone here have any experience with the Jen Ken blade kilns? I came across their “vertical air bath” kilns and heard they perform exceptionally well, but looking deeper into them I can’t find much in the way of reviews or people who use them. Someday I will build a salt pot, but that’s a ways off and until then I’d like to get an electric kiln. The vertical style is appealing, and nothing against evenheat or paragon except several month lead times, but curious who has heard of Jen Ken. John
  6. It would be great to see it happening again Dave! I remember the first Arctic Fire being a large part of inspiration to continue learning and exploring the craft, as I am sure is the case for many who have tuned in to the events.
  7. I like to use gun bluing oil to really darken the carbon steel, and it doesn't do much to the nickel steel layers. My typical routine is to -etch in ferric -clean, sand high layers at 600 or 1000 grit -coffee etch in hot water with as much instant coffee as will dissolve in it (leave for a few hours) only if I need it to be more dark than usual -clean, lightly hand sand again -wipe on cold bluing oil to wet surface, repeat as needed to leave low layers as black as desired This way I am able to achieve almost completely black surface on the low layers that i
  8. That's rad! I love this type of less-than-typical welding, it really has a certain sort of feel to it that all those fancy mosaics never come close to achieving. It may have been exactly this that I remember you posting about that initially inspired it, but this would look killer on a socket of a spear. Too cool!
  9. Thanks again for the info Jerrod! When thinking about early steel, I often forget that there were much more dramatic localizations in production and the following localized knowledge and specialty that comes with it doesn't translate quite in the way that our modern understanding does. Much food for thought!
  10. Great stuff Jerrod! I really appreciate your knowledge, there's so much to learn and most of the time it's difficult to digest from the text books. Although not specified, would you consider the ranges of Phosphorous in relation to Manganese found in knife steels (i.e. 1084 at <.4%P and .04%Mn) be above the danger threshold for One Step Temper Embrittlement? Also unrelated and more on a historic perspective, are the potential levels of Sulphur in smelted ore (and follow-on addition of Phosphorous [might be Mn, don't remember off hand] to mitigate Hot-shorting) be much more of a
  11. Thanks Alan! And good to be back! Things have a way of getting away sometimes, and I realized I've been missing the community now more than ever. Especially without various hammer ins to kindle energy and inspiration, I'm trying to avoid the grand influx of malaise that's creeping in, even if time at a forge is somewhat limited. I think it was first Michael Pikula (could be completely wrong) who made me realize how small bars in a composite blade could be prior to forge welding, his sword bars sometimes around 1/4" square! It does make a lot of sense to forge thin and weld larger,
  12. Thanks Niels! I'll certainly be posting any info and further attempts here! One of the methods of reexamination I am considering is forging the individual bars closer to the final thickness prior to welding the billet together. Although this one wasn't overly thick, there was enough residual deformation from thinning that some of the tightness of wavelength may have been lost. If I had thought about it at the time, I would have measured the overall length pre and post shaping. With thinner bars, it not only reduces the lengthwise pattern deformation but I think more importantly wil
  13. Thanks Josh! I've been thinking about this project a good deal lately, and have revisited some of the initial planning concerns with how to achieve the pattern. In theory, the same pieces could be forged, but the outer bars flipped so the undulations are on the core rather than the edge. I initially discarded that idea, and as I think more about it, I think I was right to do so. Based on how the serpent pattern of a core is relatively common (not unusual, that is) and how clean the geometry and welds seem to be in originals, I do not think starting with a pre bent twist bar would
  14. Great thread! For a while now I've been considering running my first knife (mild) through a hearth furnace and carburizing it, then reforging into another knife. I think I'll hold on to it now for purposes exactly like this, it's a good reminder of the journey indeed. Maybe I'll hearth melt knife number two instead
  15. Looks like mid march came and went by a few years... But, I was able to at long last get my belt sander back up and running and with the excess of both time and old projects these last few months I figured it was time to go back to this one. While effective in light surface removal, the scraper was nowhere near fast enough to get through the thickness of this thing for pattern development reasons, and outside of taking several consecutive days of just scraping, I ripped through it on the 24grit. Almost all of the seams and corners from the welding are gone with exception of w
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