Jump to content

John Page

Members
  • Content Count

    2,575
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

John Page last won the day on December 6 2020

John Page had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

68 Excellent

About John Page

  • Rank
    Wanderer
  • Birthday May 11

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://shardsofthedarkage.blogspot.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Half way between somewhere and nowhere
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, blacksmithing, Norse mythology, archery, cartography, woodworking

Recent Profile Visitors

4,152 profile views
  1. Thanks again for the info Jerrod! When thinking about early steel, I often forget that there were much more dramatic localizations in production and the following localized knowledge and specialty that comes with it doesn't translate quite in the way that our modern understanding does. Much food for thought!
  2. Great stuff Jerrod! I really appreciate your knowledge, there's so much to learn and most of the time it's difficult to digest from the text books. Although not specified, would you consider the ranges of Phosphorous in relation to Manganese found in knife steels (i.e. 1084 at <.4%P and .04%Mn) be above the danger threshold for One Step Temper Embrittlement? Also unrelated and more on a historic perspective, are the potential levels of Sulphur in smelted ore (and follow-on addition of Phosphorous [might be Mn, don't remember off hand] to mitigate Hot-shorting) be much more of a
  3. Thanks Alan! And good to be back! Things have a way of getting away sometimes, and I realized I've been missing the community now more than ever. Especially without various hammer ins to kindle energy and inspiration, I'm trying to avoid the grand influx of malaise that's creeping in, even if time at a forge is somewhat limited. I think it was first Michael Pikula (could be completely wrong) who made me realize how small bars in a composite blade could be prior to forge welding, his sword bars sometimes around 1/4" square! It does make a lot of sense to forge thin and weld larger,
  4. Thanks Niels! I'll certainly be posting any info and further attempts here! One of the methods of reexamination I am considering is forging the individual bars closer to the final thickness prior to welding the billet together. Although this one wasn't overly thick, there was enough residual deformation from thinning that some of the tightness of wavelength may have been lost. If I had thought about it at the time, I would have measured the overall length pre and post shaping. With thinner bars, it not only reduces the lengthwise pattern deformation but I think more importantly wil
  5. Thanks Josh! I've been thinking about this project a good deal lately, and have revisited some of the initial planning concerns with how to achieve the pattern. In theory, the same pieces could be forged, but the outer bars flipped so the undulations are on the core rather than the edge. I initially discarded that idea, and as I think more about it, I think I was right to do so. Based on how the serpent pattern of a core is relatively common (not unusual, that is) and how clean the geometry and welds seem to be in originals, I do not think starting with a pre bent twist bar would
  6. Great thread! For a while now I've been considering running my first knife (mild) through a hearth furnace and carburizing it, then reforging into another knife. I think I'll hold on to it now for purposes exactly like this, it's a good reminder of the journey indeed. Maybe I'll hearth melt knife number two instead
  7. Looks like mid march came and went by a few years... But, I was able to at long last get my belt sander back up and running and with the excess of both time and old projects these last few months I figured it was time to go back to this one. While effective in light surface removal, the scraper was nowhere near fast enough to get through the thickness of this thing for pattern development reasons, and outside of taking several consecutive days of just scraping, I ripped through it on the 24grit. Almost all of the seams and corners from the welding are gone with exception of w
  8. While in southern California for the time being, it's up in the air how long I'll be here. Life's good, but I don't see myself being here forever. As to where, the north east holds a special place in my heart but I'm certainly open to other places. I went up to the pac north west for the first time last October and absolutely loved it. I could see myself ending up there too, although at this point it all depends on more factors than I can reasonably predict. For now, however, I'm content with where things are going and I trust that it'll all work out! With the strange twists and turns that ha
  9. Hello folks! It's been almost a year since I was engaged in the hunt for land, and as may be obvious by the lack of progress on the shop, it was unsuccessful. Not to say that what I am looking for is not out there, but I have not found it yet. Given the monumental investment from a life-perspective it would be to close on a property, I do not want to rush into something that has the chance to be a mistake (harsh wording but you get the idea). In the meantime, life has taken me in an interesting direction, and in many ways it is better that I did wait to pursue the land situation.
  10. Love your construction method! I'm always on the lookout for new and interesting ways to put things together, and the result of your layering is awesome! It gives me a handful of ideas for some axe projects of my own... Thanks for sharing!!
  11. For cutting metal, absolutely. But you will need to adjust the feed rate of the band appropriate to the metal you're cutting. See the below chart and if your saw is capable of doing this: Saw Blade Feed/TPI Chart For cutting bevels? Maybe. But why? Not saying it's impossible, but it would be time and labour intensive and I would be very surprised if you achieved a result that was worth the effort. To illustrate the effect, try it out with a piece of wood the same size as the steel you'd be using. On pieces that thin, there is probably a prohibitive amount of deflection in either the
  12. How deep is the thing you plan on clamping to? Less than 3", at least for me, is not generally any use. I have a few 6", 8", and 12" clamps, but I mostly use the 6 or 8. The closer the size of the clamp to all the things being clamped together (bench, sanding block, blade, handles, backing blocks to drill through, etc.) the less cumbersome it usually is, but if you don't leave much clearance, you'll find you always need just a little more room between the jaw and foot than you thought. On some benches, I've had to clamp to only 1/2" of plywood, but on others, the entire 4" of wood, the plywoo
  13. Also on the vice note, you can probably find a used one for surprisingly cheap. I'd just watch out for any fixes on it (welding things back together, rethreading, that sort of thing) that might be on older tools. Not necessarily a problem, but things that are designed to take larger amounts of tension loading (screw, corresponding outward shear on the jaws when clamping) don't take well to being fixed. If you do decide to go with clamps over a vice to start with (or in addition to), and you don't have them already, it might not be as large a price difference as you'd expect. Either way,
  14. Regular clamps work for a lot of things, provided you have something to clamp stuff to (workbench) and sometimes work better than a vice. Again, it depends a lot on what you are intending to do/make. A post vice is a specialised vice that supports the jaws with a leg that extends all the way to the ground, so you can hammer on things clamped in it. Extremely useful, if that's the work you're doing. But for a lot of shops, not at all necessary. I would avoid, however, hammering on a machinist's vice that bolts to the workbench because they are not typically designed for that sort of stress. I f
  15. For hammers, as long as it isn't huge and doesn't have a fibreglass/metal handle, you'll probably be fine. I started with a 1,5lb Swedish pattern hammer from blacksmith's deopt and I still use it fairly often. Great weight to handle length ratio, but for most rough forging these days I use something larger. No sense in going crazy and getting something that would in other places be considered a sledge hammer. The heavier it is, at least starting out, the more you might build up bad habits as far as grip, swing, and other ergonomics that can have compounding health issues after a while. A
×
×
  • Create New...