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John Page

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John Page last won the day on May 10 2018

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About John Page

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    Wanderer
  • Birthday May 11

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  • Website URL
    http://shardsofthedarkage.blogspot.com/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Half way between somewhere and nowhere
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, blacksmithing, Norse mythology, archery, cartography, woodworking

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  1. While in southern California for the time being, it's up in the air how long I'll be here. Life's good, but I don't see myself being here forever. As to where, the north east holds a special place in my heart but I'm certainly open to other places. I went up to the pac north west for the first time last October and absolutely loved it. I could see myself ending up there too, although at this point it all depends on more factors than I can reasonably predict. For now, however, I'm content with where things are going and I trust that it'll all work out! With the strange twists and turns that ha
  2. Hello folks! It's been almost a year since I was engaged in the hunt for land, and as may be obvious by the lack of progress on the shop, it was unsuccessful. Not to say that what I am looking for is not out there, but I have not found it yet. Given the monumental investment from a life-perspective it would be to close on a property, I do not want to rush into something that has the chance to be a mistake (harsh wording but you get the idea). In the meantime, life has taken me in an interesting direction, and in many ways it is better that I did wait to pursue the land situation.
  3. Love your construction method! I'm always on the lookout for new and interesting ways to put things together, and the result of your layering is awesome! It gives me a handful of ideas for some axe projects of my own... Thanks for sharing!!
  4. For cutting metal, absolutely. But you will need to adjust the feed rate of the band appropriate to the metal you're cutting. See the below chart and if your saw is capable of doing this: Saw Blade Feed/TPI Chart For cutting bevels? Maybe. But why? Not saying it's impossible, but it would be time and labour intensive and I would be very surprised if you achieved a result that was worth the effort. To illustrate the effect, try it out with a piece of wood the same size as the steel you'd be using. On pieces that thin, there is probably a prohibitive amount of deflection in either the
  5. How deep is the thing you plan on clamping to? Less than 3", at least for me, is not generally any use. I have a few 6", 8", and 12" clamps, but I mostly use the 6 or 8. The closer the size of the clamp to all the things being clamped together (bench, sanding block, blade, handles, backing blocks to drill through, etc.) the less cumbersome it usually is, but if you don't leave much clearance, you'll find you always need just a little more room between the jaw and foot than you thought. On some benches, I've had to clamp to only 1/2" of plywood, but on others, the entire 4" of wood, the plywoo
  6. Also on the vice note, you can probably find a used one for surprisingly cheap. I'd just watch out for any fixes on it (welding things back together, rethreading, that sort of thing) that might be on older tools. Not necessarily a problem, but things that are designed to take larger amounts of tension loading (screw, corresponding outward shear on the jaws when clamping) don't take well to being fixed. If you do decide to go with clamps over a vice to start with (or in addition to), and you don't have them already, it might not be as large a price difference as you'd expect. Either way,
  7. Regular clamps work for a lot of things, provided you have something to clamp stuff to (workbench) and sometimes work better than a vice. Again, it depends a lot on what you are intending to do/make. A post vice is a specialised vice that supports the jaws with a leg that extends all the way to the ground, so you can hammer on things clamped in it. Extremely useful, if that's the work you're doing. But for a lot of shops, not at all necessary. I would avoid, however, hammering on a machinist's vice that bolts to the workbench because they are not typically designed for that sort of stress. I f
  8. For hammers, as long as it isn't huge and doesn't have a fibreglass/metal handle, you'll probably be fine. I started with a 1,5lb Swedish pattern hammer from blacksmith's deopt and I still use it fairly often. Great weight to handle length ratio, but for most rough forging these days I use something larger. No sense in going crazy and getting something that would in other places be considered a sledge hammer. The heavier it is, at least starting out, the more you might build up bad habits as far as grip, swing, and other ergonomics that can have compounding health issues after a while. A
  9. After a little digesting, and looking more closely into the examinations in the later portion, I wonder how much of a difference normalizing has on those results. It sounds like all of the grain related data is taking the samples as-is and hardening without any sort of thermocycling. It would be understandable that the cold rolled v. hot rolled grain size would therefore influence the post-hardening properties (why we normalize in the first place) but I'm not entirely sure if the summary explanation of the results is what I think it is. Some of the questions I have would be easily answere
  10. Never seen that site before, but wow! Great stuff, thanks for posting that! Lots of great info there that'll take some time to digest
  11. Andy, Take a look at the dies on the Blacksmiths Depot for a sense of the geometry you're looking for. I've used a set of 3/8" round fullers to set shoulders, then using the edge of the anvil and hammer control to forge the actual tang. You can get relatively sharp corners this way, and it leaves a slight radius at the junction which helps with preventing the nucleation of cracks as you work. That can be taken care of later with files or the belt sander in a minute or two if you really want sharp corners in there. Even with the 3/8" radius however, I can use it as a guillotine on smaller
  12. Kerry, Hoping to be able to make it out this year. I was trying to get onto the site but I keep getting an error message. Wanted to throw my name into the mix before it's too late. John
  13. The stairs things is more a problem with a combination of dimensions rather than any single specific measurement. The angle of the roof for the overhead clearance, the width, and the height all combined in the space I'm trying to stick it in along with the minimum landing requirements (had to have a 90 degree bend in it) mean something has to give. Instead of having a stair stick out into the room (because of the 10" tread depth) I adjusted the step height and floor depth to make it so the last stair is more or less flush with the wall. Looked around a bit with some wall systems and it's
  14. One last thing- forgot to mention that I redesigned the hot shop rafters (again) to lighten the frame a bit. After some sensible and firm recommendations, I removed the horizontal ring that intermeshed with the hammer beams. It required reconfiguring the hammer beams a little to make them handle the loads differently, but it turns out that the spreading absorbed by the horizontal ring was considerably less than I thought, especially with the whole point of the hammer beams being to turn spreading loads at the tops of walls into torsional loads in the bottoms of the walls (there being thick mas
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