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John Page

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John Page last won the day on December 6 2020

John Page had the most liked content!

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About John Page

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  • Birthday May 11

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    Half way between somewhere and nowhere
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, blacksmithing, Norse mythology, archery, cartography, woodworking

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  1. That's an awesome idea! I should definitely try that out, usually it's a blundering disaster trying to use the very not appropriately sized horn of the anvil and giving up before it really worked out. I wonder if the original sockets were just freehanded or if there are surviving examples of the mandrels that may have been used to do final shaping on the haft end. That little flare transition is great but is so easy to botch! Maybe it'd be possible to use a wooden one a few times? Wood is certainly cheaper and more portable than iron, but is it even necessary? I've made a few tubular handles f
  2. I love everything about this! The waisted core is particularly slick, and those wolves teeth are spot on. How bad was it welding up that socket? That's the part of spears that I always dread, especially when it isn't starting as either a pipe or integral to the tang and just flared out and rolled. Great stuff!
  3. I have made quite a few press dies out of just mild steel, with the exception of an eye punching die which is H13. So far, there has been no sign of wear other than a little bit of light surface texturing from the scale. I will say however that if you plan on using any sort of tooling in the press, have a hardened die that interacts with the tool or a sacrificial mild steel die that you won't mind getting marred by hard and/or cold tooling (punches, stop blocks, etc.) John
  4. Fantastic resource, thanks for sharing! I thoroughly enjoy this sort of historical compendium that is both well informed and well curated. Perhaps not the non-english ones for a time, but the first is at the top of the shopping list. Cheers! John
  5. Great stuff, thanks! I've been deep down the rabbit hole of tool making for the last year or so, and I'm loving all the different processes and designs to spark my own experimentation. John
  6. Welcome back! Glad to see that absence has not been idle I really dig the pattern going on, both bold and subtle. Pattern development is an ever fascinating field, and I hope to see more! John
  7. You can certainly grind it in, but it's also not too bad to forge. Do a classic overcurve to compensate for the edge spreading from forging in the bevel, but even more exaugurated, although you'll probably still need to forge on the long axis over the horn or other suitably not sharp cornered form. It doesn't induce an overly large amount of unwanted deformation to forge that sort of hook curve on a wedge shaped geometry for hot steel. Worst case you'll just need to flatten out the edge plane. A little baconing is not unusual, but also quick to fix.
  8. Truly fantastic! There's nothing quite like this sort of archeo-metallurgical exploration that gets me so excited. I really enjoyed the video and look forward seeing where you go from here! John
  9. Turns out that was easier than expected, I found 10 videos and a .pdf that I think is the dvd booklet. If there's an easier way of sending those over that's not the mail let me know! edited to add it's just under 20gb total
  10. If the infallible post office somehow falls through and Alan's copy is lost to the ether, I also have one somewhere, possibly also already on an old hard drive. I'll take a look and see if I can find it John
  11. Does anyone here have any experience with the Jen Ken blade kilns? I came across their “vertical air bath” kilns and heard they perform exceptionally well, but looking deeper into them I can’t find much in the way of reviews or people who use them. Someday I will build a salt pot, but that’s a ways off and until then I’d like to get an electric kiln. The vertical style is appealing, and nothing against evenheat or paragon except several month lead times, but curious who has heard of Jen Ken. John
  12. It would be great to see it happening again Dave! I remember the first Arctic Fire being a large part of inspiration to continue learning and exploring the craft, as I am sure is the case for many who have tuned in to the events.
  13. I like to use gun bluing oil to really darken the carbon steel, and it doesn't do much to the nickel steel layers. My typical routine is to -etch in ferric -clean, sand high layers at 600 or 1000 grit -coffee etch in hot water with as much instant coffee as will dissolve in it (leave for a few hours) only if I need it to be more dark than usual -clean, lightly hand sand again -wipe on cold bluing oil to wet surface, repeat as needed to leave low layers as black as desired This way I am able to achieve almost completely black surface on the low layers that i
  14. That's rad! I love this type of less-than-typical welding, it really has a certain sort of feel to it that all those fancy mosaics never come close to achieving. It may have been exactly this that I remember you posting about that initially inspired it, but this would look killer on a socket of a spear. Too cool!
  15. Thanks again for the info Jerrod! When thinking about early steel, I often forget that there were much more dramatic localizations in production and the following localized knowledge and specialty that comes with it doesn't translate quite in the way that our modern understanding does. Much food for thought!
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