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John Page

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Everything posted by John Page

  1. Managed to get the wiring temporarily installed today, enough to turn it on and see what happens. Between the VFD and a neat old mechanical forward/reverse switch, there were a lot of places to get the polarity of the 3 phase wrong, but it's officially running! I only brought it up to about half speed because the motor and reduction gear plate is not mounted to anything and I was afraid the chain would jump off if moving too quickly. But it works! Now I need to hunt down a longer bit of 10/3 cordage and some strain relief connectors for the VFD box, then figure out the motor placement.
  2. The mill has finally come in, early last week and I've only had a cursory look around the beast. It's a very handsome machine all said, I'm very excited to get to use it. The reduction gear is only part of the drive train, it seems. I discovered a handful of other reducing gears underneath and in the back end where the two shafts couple with the power. Spinning the motor by hand is very easy and has me feeling good about the torque output. There's a mystery shaft directly under the rollers on the underside of the table but I can't figure out what it's for. There is a mitered gear with teeth on
  3. Does the knife nerds book have good info on the oil speeds required for various alloys? It seems like most documents just "quench in oil" or something similar, but nothing about the speed of the oil. One of the things I've been trying to get better about is understanding the processes and variables outside of the actual steel alloy.
  4. I've boiled antler before but not for the fitting up to a tang. It was a three part antler handle with two more bronze spacers, and I boiled it in a mixture of instant coffee to patina it. The process did very little if nothing structural, and a small bedding of epoxy soaked into the pith was used for the final fitting. That was maybe seven years ago and the handle is still just as solid as it was then.
  5. I think all the knuckles on my left hand are all scar tissue at this point... little slips here and there and a 24 grit belt ripping through whatever I'm feeding into it seem to, the blink of an eye, take off a little more than the topsoil. Keep your eyes on the prize for sure, even the quickest of slips leave you feeling it for a week of hand washing
  6. Great stuff! A disk grinder is on the short list of new shop additions for sure. Curious to see how the build progresses
  7. Good to know thanks! I was thinking of replacing the motor, as the one on it is theoretically functional but again, incompatible with the power situation. A 5hp single phase, either high torque or regular would likely be more than enough. Once I have it in the shop I'll do some poking around and see what makes the most sense with the coupling to the reduction gearing. Fingers crossed it's all in working order!
  8. Officially in the mail! Or whatever the freight equivalent is... I'll post some initial updates when it arrives, but I'm quite excited for this, it's a machine I've wanted for a long long while, and finding a vintage one is icing on the cake. One day if I ever find a spot to build a workshop, I've been seriously considering building in a lineshaft to drive these sorts of things. But for now, the built in motor is more than enough
  9. Thanks for the insight! I think that a use/fix/use/fix mentality is great, especially with something potentially 100 years old. Also thanks for the infeed table idea, I've seen those on larger ones but haven't considered adding one. Much safer than stuffing it in with tongs. I do a large amount of running rough lumber through large planers at work and I see a lot of other people having trouble tripping the breakers because they try to take too large a pass or don't account for variation in thickness early on from cupping and various other warpage, but it seems incredibly easy to not do that if
  10. Thanks gents! Not sure what the reduction gear drops the roller RPM down to, but the gearbox faceplate says the reduction ratio is 8.8 (divide motor RPM by 8.8?) If so, that puts the roller torque at a little over 3000. I suppose the bearing material, if problematic, could be replaced by a higher temperature equivalent. One good thing about these old machines is how easy they are to take apart and work on! I am a little worried about what sort of pressure it can withstand, as the leadscrews don't look particularly enormous, but for some light duty rolling it should be fine. I think, as with al
  11. Thanks! I do a bit of lurking, but lately I've been much more heavily involved in the toolmaking side of forging. I love that site! I did a little bit of combing, and haven't seen quite the right thing in there. Without a manufacture date on this thicknesser, it's hard to pin down what catalogue to look in. The wrapping rollers seem to be used more as a ring roller than a thicknesser. Another word I've seen in this quest is a 'metal flattener' although I'm only getting the modern results of huge machines intended for unrolling big coils back into flat sheets. Although if anyone comes across a
  12. Hello all! I finally found what may be the rolling mill for me, this vintage Buffalo beauty. However, I have a few questions that I cannot for the life of me find any answers to. If anyone has even speculative advice I'd greatly appreciate it. First off, here's the machine- Now, it's listed as a Metal Thicknesser, and I cannot find that verbiage anywhere at all, much less in the specific context of vintage Buffalo machine. Is that even the same thing as a rolling mill? I assumed it is just a precursor to the modern 2-hi rolling mill, but I'm coming up with
  13. All around very unfortunate that, as small fish in the sea, there isn't much that can be done that isn't prohibitively expensive and time absorbing. Although this one is a paypal problem, that doesn't mean it won't happen elsewhere and with similar lack of notice or chances of repeal. Following along with interest and a heavy heart. John
  14. Wow! Not what I expected to see at all. I find it fascinating to see something historic that contradicts the modern interpretations. That is quite funky but also a treat to see something so well preserved.
  15. Looks like a steal! Definitely good shape from what it look like, beats the pants off my small one that I probably paid the same amount for some 10 years ago.
  16. That's an awesome idea! I should definitely try that out, usually it's a blundering disaster trying to use the very not appropriately sized horn of the anvil and giving up before it really worked out. I wonder if the original sockets were just freehanded or if there are surviving examples of the mandrels that may have been used to do final shaping on the haft end. That little flare transition is great but is so easy to botch! Maybe it'd be possible to use a wooden one a few times? Wood is certainly cheaper and more portable than iron, but is it even necessary? I've made a few tubular handles f
  17. I love everything about this! The waisted core is particularly slick, and those wolves teeth are spot on. How bad was it welding up that socket? That's the part of spears that I always dread, especially when it isn't starting as either a pipe or integral to the tang and just flared out and rolled. Great stuff!
  18. I have made quite a few press dies out of just mild steel, with the exception of an eye punching die which is H13. So far, there has been no sign of wear other than a little bit of light surface texturing from the scale. I will say however that if you plan on using any sort of tooling in the press, have a hardened die that interacts with the tool or a sacrificial mild steel die that you won't mind getting marred by hard and/or cold tooling (punches, stop blocks, etc.) John
  19. Fantastic resource, thanks for sharing! I thoroughly enjoy this sort of historical compendium that is both well informed and well curated. Perhaps not the non-english ones for a time, but the first is at the top of the shopping list. Cheers! John
  20. Great stuff, thanks! I've been deep down the rabbit hole of tool making for the last year or so, and I'm loving all the different processes and designs to spark my own experimentation. John
  21. Welcome back! Glad to see that absence has not been idle I really dig the pattern going on, both bold and subtle. Pattern development is an ever fascinating field, and I hope to see more! John
  22. You can certainly grind it in, but it's also not too bad to forge. Do a classic overcurve to compensate for the edge spreading from forging in the bevel, but even more exaugurated, although you'll probably still need to forge on the long axis over the horn or other suitably not sharp cornered form. It doesn't induce an overly large amount of unwanted deformation to forge that sort of hook curve on a wedge shaped geometry for hot steel. Worst case you'll just need to flatten out the edge plane. A little baconing is not unusual, but also quick to fix.
  23. Truly fantastic! There's nothing quite like this sort of archeo-metallurgical exploration that gets me so excited. I really enjoyed the video and look forward seeing where you go from here! John
  24. Turns out that was easier than expected, I found 10 videos and a .pdf that I think is the dvd booklet. If there's an easier way of sending those over that's not the mail let me know! edited to add it's just under 20gb total
  25. If the infallible post office somehow falls through and Alan's copy is lost to the ether, I also have one somewhere, possibly also already on an old hard drive. I'll take a look and see if I can find it John
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