Gerald Boggs

Sorry, I do no custom work, nor could sans oven do justice to the steel.

Only comment is about the cone mandrel, If you're knife focuses, not much need, but if you're doing a range of blacksmithing, they can come in handy. Mine spends most of it's time alone in the corner, but every once in while, I spend a day using it and without it, that day would have been two. Price, 23 years ago I spent $75 on a 2 footer and a fellow smith laughed at spending so much, now I couldn't find one for under $600 and a tall one like that in the photo is commonly over a $1000.

If I remember correctly, I posted this before, but as it shows how different steels perform, it's worth repeating. Lie-Nielsen Tools used to sell both O-1 and A-2 chisels. Because of the differences in edge performance, they recommended a 25 degree primary and 30 on the secondary edges for the O-1, and on the A-2, 30 and 35. They explained the O-1 would take a sharper edge, but would need to be sharpened more often, where as the A-2 wouldn't take as sharp of edge, but the edge would last a long time. They no longer sell the O-1 :-(

4.5 inch handle, 7.5 blade, total is a little over 12 1/8.

Rats!, me and my big mouth. Now I've got to figure out which box in the storeroom. In the meantime, Randell's web site says about 4 1/2 inches.

I have a Randell 14, but with the finger grooves.

Or two days by mule over the pass

While not germane to your quest for a bladesmith. Back during the Grenada Fall Vacation of 83, I watched one of the hotel gardeners mowing the grass with a machete. Just how sharp is a blade that cuts grass by swinging the blade back and forth with mostly nothing more then the wrist?

It's an idea, but I think I need a bit more practice forging blades. Along with a general intro to bladesmithing, focus is on learning to forge a blade that will pass the test and most people DO pass. And afterwards, you never need to do it again. As for brutal, I never took my eyes off the instructor, so I never saw my blades bending and since they didn't break, happy feet and smiles.

I don't know, nothing I think, except you don't get the positive feeling of knowing you got it right. Two blades are so if one fails, you've got another chance. It's great prep for the test if you're thinking of going that path. I couldn't swing the blade well enough to cut the rope and the chopping was a lot more work then I thought. The instructor showed a video of him doing it in 6.5 seconds, I took long time, long enough to start to feel arm burn.

Thanks :-) Sadly, these don't count for the actual blade test. Nothing you forge in the class can count.

Just finished the two week Intro to Bladesmithing class and here's my two test blades. Both passed, but it was very close, especially with the edge retention on the blade on the right. As you can see, the blade on the left had a nice curve after the bend test showing that the bend was over most of the blade. The one on the right did almost all the bending right at the point above the vice. I had a lot of trouble getting a sharp edge on it and the instructor thought I might have over-tempered, plus (can't really see it in the photo) the distal taper is the entire length of the blade, where as the left blade maintains it's thickness most of it's length. Rope cuts was a no-go for me, but the instructor was kind and easily cut the rope for me. I thought chopping the 2x4's would be easy, but it and the rope cut are definitely a skill best practiced. Over all , good class. I'll write up a review later.

Interesting find. I did a bit of traditional sailing and have never seen that blade. Wonder what it was for?

Alas, the job fell through. Part of me is a little glad, don't mind forging a few RR spike knifes, but a 100 was a bit much. On the other hand, I would have gotten pretty good at them.

It looks to be in fair shape. As for price, every 100lb. I've seen sold in the last decade has gone for at least $600 Forged in Fire may have helped with knife prices, but it has also helped jack up equipment prices.

I remember him, he used to moderate an art metal forum. Sadly the forum is no more, it was owned by a NC smith long retired. Anyway, that was a very cool forge. I liked the little vertical burner on the side that allowed one to heat up just a little area, looked great for working small bits.

Don't know about the double headed, but the long spikes are available here. It's been a while, but you could buy a can at a time and they would ship in two flat rate boxes. http://keystonespikes.com/wordpress/

Thanks, between you and Matt, I now know what a surfectant is and that it's easy to find.

Thanks

No, the client understands the limitations of RR spike blades. Although, now that you've asked, maybe I'll give superquench a try. I vaguely remember the recipe, anyone have it to share?

A chance to grow, I think, if I don't wear out my arm :-) Just received an order to forge 100 railroad spike knifes. I've got months to do them, so I'll forge them in small batches. It's got me thinking it might be time to get press.

If it's drilling for handles, talk with some of the stone jewelry folks. The few I know, drill holes large and small in quite a range of stones and sizes.

Me too, I'll be at the same spot as last year.

I've drilled a fair number of holes into rock during my time doing architectural work. Only had one rock gave me trouble, not sure which type of rock, but it was really hard and I went through several bits getting the hole drilled. That was a fireplace install using a hammer drill and carbide tipped masonry bits. I've also done quite a number of stone stands for iron art, mostly ½ inch holes for forged flowers and trees. Maybe I've been lucky in my rocks from the creek, but never had any trouble drilling them. Again with hammer drill. For handrail installs, I've always used a water cooled core drill.

My father always used to tell me mine would be the FBI's most wanted. Ha!! shows what he knew, I never got caught.