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Gerald Boggs

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Everything posted by Gerald Boggs

  1. It's worth remembering that Joseph Stokes wrote this and the two other books in the set, for the rural third world blacksmith. He worked under the idea that folks couldn't just pick up the phone and order steel. So with that in mind, he taught folks to salvage the steel from old vehicles, hence the steel in this case coming from a leaf spring. Upon a visit to Joe's shop in England, the tool and tong method is what he used. He was quite frugal in his use of tool steel and only made the tool as large as necessary. He had about fifty top tools in a cloth pouch on the wall, none of them more then 3 1/2 inches long and forged to fit a purpose build tong. I learned my first blacksmithing from his son, Stephen Stokes.
  2. Well, I might be closer, but 2 1/2 hours each way is still a little long just to visit :-) So I just called and asked about the differences between WD1, WD6, and WD24.
  3. Oh No!!! I'm out of chili paste and Huy Fong Foods has warned that due to lack of peppers, sriracha sauce is going to be a shortage. Man, this is like the 'End of the World' news, stockpile while you can! Luckily, I only have to make it to the fall and then my peppers (fingers crossed) will be ripe.
  4. Looked at the Dunlap site, they offer four types handles: Mouse, WD-1, WD-6, and WD-24, with a lot of grades. I didn't see any explanation as to the differences. Since you've mentioned Dunlap several times over the years, i thought I'd ask you :-)
  5. If you mean the backside of the 1075, yes, always. What you want is the back edge to taper to nothing, that way the steel can blend into the wrought.
  6. I'm sure it's just coincidental, but the word Unibomber popped into my mind :-)
  7. If it were me making this, I would just search “tactical full tang hatchet” and pick out one I liked and could make with the least amount of effort. Because in the end, a hatchet, tomahawk, or big kill knife, are just fashion accessories. I can only think of two situations where I could have used a hatchet, and that was in survival school and jungle warfare school. In the case of survival, not allowed, and JWS, we had issue machetes.
  8. I'm having trouble finding it. It's not where I remember placing it, which is up on a 2 by 4 along the shop wall. I'll keep looking, it's somewhere, hopefully not suffering the fate of many a sock.
  9. I'll need to look. Will return tonight or early tomorrow
  10. I've been interested in carving axes and such, enough that I bought the “Carving Swedish Woodenware with Jogge Sundqvist DVD” and his father's book on wood carving. I even found time to forge a few carving axes 1. Is 1.25-1.5lbs a decent size? If the plan is an axe for spoons and perhaps small bowls, then yes. A larger axe would probable be a hindrance to getting a smooth blow, especially for a small person. 2. Is it helpful to put a heavier pole on a hatchet like this? I want to add some extra weight and will either double up the material for the poll or weld it between the two cheeks when I do the wrap. Not sure about this, lack the experience of comparison. 3.Would a single or double bevel work better here? I'm not sure it matters beyond personal preference. Here's a link where it's talked about: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/swedishcarvingaxe.aspx I know that elder Sundqvist book shows an off-set double bevel. Meaning the bevels were different angles. 4.What handle length would be good? I have blanks for this made from white oak that got blown down by a storm last spring, I should be able to go up to 16-18”, maybe longer if that would be a good idea. No idea, but all the carving axes I've seen used have a short to medium length Oops, I didn't see Alan's post. It's the same link to highlandwoodworking.
  11. I think I'll just go real old school and call everything with carbon, "The Good Iron"
  12. So whatever I want to say is correct because there is no common terminology :-)
  13. I'm hoping for a clarification on terminology. Some of us have used the term “Alloy” when talking about 1080 and 1084. I thought the “10” indicated plain carbon steel, with steel such as 4140 being considered alloy steels. I compared 1018 with 1084, and the only difference (according to AZoM's web site) is the amount of carbon. 15N20 having 2% nickel would put it in the alloy classification.
  14. I see your location is Ecuador, so this might not be useful information. Parks is expensive, you can get an 11 second quenching oil from McMaster-Carr for less then half the price. https://www.mcmaster.com/quenching-oil/
  15. Not trying to be argumentative, but leave me out the "general consensus" It's just I don't know enough to have an opinion :-)
  16. Perhaps others with better knowledge will clarify, but it's my understanding, Parks 50 is a oil that mimic's the speed of water. In other words, a fast quench.
  17. And then the lights went out and when they came back on, the gold was gone!
  18. Joseph Stokes writes about using cast iron on mild or wrought in one of his UN books. https://www.fao.org/3/ah635e/Ah635e00.htm Chapter 18. Having never done it, not sure if this is relevant information.
  19. I like forging, but don't like finishing. With that, I thought I'd see if there's any interest in forging for others to finish. At this time, I would be limiting my efforts to tomahawks and axes. I've got a few laying around in various states of completeness and will be posting them on “Knives for Sale” forum. While most of the work would be using mild steel for the body, I can use most any steel for the edge. I know axes made by Gransfors is 60 points of carbon, but am having trouble finding it in stock. If anyone is interested, PM me. Here's a few examples of what I have laying around.
  20. There's lots of information out there, some of it quite good. For a basic primer, Ball Canning (www.freshpreserving.com), The National Center for Home Food Preservation (https://nchfp.uga.edu/) and any number of American state extension web sites are a good start. Be warned, with the government sites, anything they have not tested is listed as dangerous, even if it's something that's been safely done by generations of canners. The BBC is also a good place for canning and fermenting information.
  21. I'll be interested to hear how it works out. While I've no need at this time to sit while working, from time to time I've toyed with the idea. Your arrangement of being able to spin the chair to access different stations is pretty cool.
  22. I don't use any sugar. A lot of recipes use sugar to help soften the bite of the pepper. I just use milder peppers for the same effect. Amounts are up to you Peppers garlic Salt It's the same ingredients for both canning and fermenting. The only difference is I cover the top of fermenting with a thin layer of salt. I believe that it helps stop any mold development at the air-pepper interface. Update on my recipe. With more reading, I've learned I shouldn't have added any vinegar to the mash, only salt. How much salt is a on-going question, but 3% appears to be about right. The vinegar interferes with the fermenting and is added after fermenting to help preserve and enhance flavor.
  23. I'm confused. There appears to be some dislike for the knife. Is it because the knife is intended for self-defense or because of the design?
  24. I know nothing abut this subject, I don't even have a power hammer. However, my curiosity got me to do a web search on "VFD power hammer" There appears to be blacksmith shops using VFD's on their hammers.
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