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Gerald Boggs

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Everything posted by Gerald Boggs

  1. I just can't wrap my mind around the idea of Switzerland and BBQ :-)
  2. That is one of the coolest tool ideas I've seen. Nice score :-)
  3. Speak for yourself, America has coal reserves for the next 250 years. Plenty of black stuff. :-)
  4. To tell the true, I'm not sure I've really welded it. As I'm using a bit of iron powder with the borax, I might actually be getting more of a "brazing"
  5. Here's the first one. I didn't upset and it took a couple of tries, so it got pretty beat up. The bend was done cold and only for a bit of curve. I just wanted to test the weld, not see if I could break it :-) Thanks all for the kind words.
  6. I've been wanting to try lap welding in the gas forge. I've long been told that it can't be done, but I've never been good at listening. When I say lap weld, that's what I mean. Two pieces in the fire, then laid one on top of the other and hammered together. Here's the result of my second attempt. I thought I would actually make something useful. In this case, a hotdog fork for the campfire.
  7. Still a couple of spaces left. Just wanted to put the offer out there: If you're flying in, I can pick you up at the airport.
  8. I use the wood ash out of my stove for quick annealing of 4140. If I want a slower annealing, I'll use vermiculite. The iron takes about twice as long in the vermiculite as it does in the wood ash. So it would depend on how soft of anneal you want. For anvil tooling, the ash works fine, for anything else, I'd use the vermiculite. Lowes carries bags of it in their garden section.
  9. Not an historian here, but it was my understanding the use of copper was quite limited. Mostly to an area near the great lakes, it was from found copper (North American natives never developed casting with the vast majority being still in the wheel-less stone age) and the sources of copper were long exhausted prior to the arrival of the European.
  10. Thank you Mr. Christianson Sam, Not just tool making. The methods I used to forge the spear, are the same I use to forge hundreds, if not thousands of leaves each year. Still a leaf, just a lot longer :-) The wrap of the hawk, uses the the same set-up as all those trivets I made last year, just I did a better job on the trivets.
  11. I'm seeing how far over my blacksmith skills will transfer to bladesmithing. With that, I decided to have a go at make a Hawk. I've forge the body a few times, but this is the first one I've finished to a state of use. Body: A36 Blade: Bit of rasp. Photo one: After the night in acid. You can clearly see the weld line. Photo two and three: After a bit of filing, I put it back in the fire and then hot wire brushed it with a angle grinder. As you can see from the big divots, if I want a mirror finish, I'm going to have to pay more to cleaning off the scale during forging.
  12. 1. Here's the same after a little more filing. Finer files will be ordered soon 2. Backside, You should be able to see the socket weld didn't quite go, hence the need for a proper mandrel. 3. The blade cut in half to show the bevel. I only finished one side. The side on the bottom is as hammered. 4. The blade just before it's journey to the fire. I had promised the Fire this piece yesterday, but decided to do a little more work. The Fire took this as a breaking of promise and took another piece. To ask forgiveness and show good intent, I'll give it to the Fire as the first item into the Fire.
  13. Yep, Fire and Brimstone, first time. I did introduce myself to few, would have to got you, but the firey beard makes it hard to recognize :-) Plus, I was only there for Friday night and Saturday, had to be back home to share the truck. I saw some nice work, but alas, no spear.
  14. Thanks, didn't do much of a weld on the socket. (weld on backside) I don't have a mandrel the correct size, so I made do with what I had. Guess that goes on the list of needed tool making. Any advice on taper for spears sockets?
  15. Thanks for the advice, I'll have another go with the files and see if I can clean it up a bit more. What you're seeing is a bit of scale denting that I didn't file out. I got tired of filing without any support on the blade. Just had the socket in the vice, so lots of flex.
  16. After the Hammer-in, I was motivated to have a go at blade forging. I had watched Hector Cole's video on Bodkin forging and used that as a starting point. For training purposes, I started with a piece of A36 1/2 square by 6 inches long. First photo: A practice piece I cut in half to see if I was forging a bevel. Second: raw forging. Third: Draw filed. I need to get finer files.
  17. If anyone's interested, I'll bring a British style Side-blast forge. Folks can have a go and see what they think of them.
  18. Cool, I've been wanting to come to this event. Craft shows and earning a living has always conflicted. I've emailed the registration and the check will be in the mail come Monday morning.
  19. As a blacksmith, I started on a 350 Lb Fisher anvil. When I went off on my own, I scored a 600+ lb Fisher anvil. After a while, I acquired a 400 lb anvil. Then a 218 Swedish anvil. I think you can see where this is going. I now use as my main anvil, a 100 lb Kohlswa. As the years have gone by, I have found no advantage to a large anvil, in fact, I found the opposite. The smaller anvils feel to have more life. I feel as if I'm getting more return for my effort with the 100 lb, then with any of the other anvils. To be fair and as a informal testing, I sometimes spend the day working on the other anvils, but always, the 100 lb out-performs all. I do find having the anvil securely anchored to the earth, greatly increases its performance.
  20. Got my copy in the mail today. Good thing i had no plans to go out. It was a dinner and video evening for me. The video was quite excellent. Along with good quality instruction, it showed me several ways of doing, which are different from my background. I highly recommend this video.
  21. The Kaynes, in my experience, have a habit of bad mouthing anything they don't sell and claiming what they sell is the best of the best. On tong metal: I've never bought any tongs, have always made them. I've always used A36 and never any problems. Sam, you forge knifes, axes, hammers, etc. Just why am I seeing a store bought chisel? :-)
  22. I agree, Tom is an excellent smith and an excellent teacher. Some of the stuff he does is incredible I took a class with him several years ago. Here's a photo of what we were being inspired to try. Alas, mine in no way looks this good. All made with hand tools. Just pushing iron around. As for this class, you'll see me there, I better be, I helped organize it :-) The Old Dominion blacksmith Guild has a working relationship with the Jacksonville Center for the Arts. We help take care of the forge studio, in return, we get to use the studio for some of our meetings. The Saturday before the class, I'll be doing a workshop on Tooling for Tenon and Mortise (Journal?) It's open to all, you don't have to be a member. Fee is $20. We try to keep everything as inexpensive as possible. http://olddominionblacksmith.com/Schedule.php Last bit of info: Floyd is a center for country and folk music. Floyd has been doing a Friday night jam for years. Several venues have organized music jams and all along main street, folks get together and jam. It's a good time by all. So if you come, try to arrange your schedule to be there for a Friday night.
  23. Come 13 August 2012, Tom Latane' will be teaching a class on forging 17th Century Axe Heads at Floyd, Virginia. For more information, visit http://jacksonvillecenter.org/education/2010-classes/2012-scheduled-classes/02-by-media/blacksmithing/forging-17th-century-axe-heads-blk081312/
  24. Unless you're trying for an odd shape, why not make your drift. Unlike punches and chisels, drifts can be made from mild steel. There's no heat treatment involved, just forge the taper and shape, then use.
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