Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by MatthewBerry

  1. I love this piece - it came out great! What catches my eye the most iare your junctions where the guttering, the band, and the ring all come together (the last picture). They are are a wonderful design executed so cleanly.
  2. Wow! Beautiful. Are the panels on the scabbard done with reposse or pres blech? They’re great. I’d love to see a closer shot of the whole handle.
  3. Beautiful sword. I really like the multiple woods on the handle.
  4. I have to give credit for the idea to Peter Johnson - Emilliano described the jig Peter was using to me, and this was my first attempt at something of the kind. Definitely stop down next time you are around and I can show you how the whole bronze-casting thing works.
  5. Nice looking piece. Sounds like you got the handling right too.
  6. Very nice looking. Your blades always have such excellent curves.
  7. Thanks guys! Glad you like it. Yup. It's kinda the Peter Johnsson method - two thin slats on each side. The inside is lined with wool felt before gluing. Then i used a layer of hide glue between the slats and wrapped the whole thing up with a bicycle tire tube cut into a huge strip. The outer leather is sewn on wet over a coating of hide glue.
  8. I finally finished my first viking sword that I made all-by-myself. The big challenge on this one is that wide shallow fuller - I've never done that before and it looks difficult to get right. Here's the sword blank (1075 steel) with the bevels forged in. I shaped the initial blank with the power hammer, and then hand forged the tip and the bevels. I didn't take a picture, but the bevels are forged in with a spring tool whose dies are radiused to 6". Here's the result: Slightly crooked, but it gets a lot of the steel to the right areas and significantly widened
  9. Great piece! The blade pattern is very nice and the handle components and carving all work together very well. i do a bit of bronze casting and the burnout schedule can usually be found on the website of the investment plasters maker. Generally the process is melt the wax out and drive out some of the water by heating to about 300 degrees F for 3 hours. Then you slowly raise the temperature about 200 Degrees F per hour until you’re above 1000 F. The plaster I use has me take it up to 1350 F and hold it there for 3 hours, but i’ve Seen it done by holding at 1000 F overnight. Then you l
  10. It's a wonderful sword - I had a chance to play with it after it was finished. It's feels very light and alive in the hand. It knows what it's supposed to do...
  11. I love it! I'm a big fan of could-have-been creations like this. You did a great job of evolving the anglo saxon style toward scottish dirks. I also really like the way you did the garnets - it's the original technique just with different materials - I don't think you can't get any closer to real for this side of a king's ransom.
  12. Very nice! Makes me want to give one a try
  13. I think it would work, but it will be difficult. Getting the pommel hole and the tang hole to line up and having that exact spot be where the tang fits tightest in the hole would be really hard. If I were to do it this way I'd suggest not making the hole in the tang until after the pommel has be heat fitted to the tang. Then drill the hole in the tang and fit the pin. If you want to pin to disappear use a taper reamer on the hole and compress the pin with a pin vise. But personally I'd put the tang all the way through the pommel. It was done that way for a number of reasons I suspect
  14. I’d definitely temper the cutter. I don’t know w2, but something like 400 degrees maybe(?). Full hard will chip, even if you can’t see it.
  15. I’d give careful attention to the areas at the edge of the fuller. As the tool cuts deeper more blade is engaged. If you don’t have a good edge on the scraper on the areas newly engaged right at the edge of the fuller, it may be riding on those. Try putting sharpie on the scraper and then take a pass - it will show you where the tool is contacting the fuller
  16. Looking quite awesome so far. Can't wait to see the pressblech!
  17. Thanks Dave, I take this as a huge compliment - Jake's work is what launched my down this road. When i first found Jake's site my jaw hit the floor and stayed there for a couple days. And yeah, that would have been a very odd white sprue.
  18. Thanks guys! Glad you like it. Here's the last part: The chape and locket were cast by the same process as the handle parts: First I made a thin wax as the base then I added more wax on top by melting it. This is not normally how I go about it, but the design had a lot of flat background so I decided it would be easier to add wax on instead of carving down to the background. The back piece was pretty much the same, but with no design added. For the chape the design was dense enough that I went with my normal procedure of carving down to the background,
  19. A detailed explanation would be a book, and I don't know enough yet to write it. But I did post a basic explanation of casting on my blog a while back: http://hopkinsforge.blogspot.com/2016/05/lost-wax-casting-dragon-head.html How do you get from the rough casting to the finished state? I don't have any pictures of that, but here's an outline: 1) a wire hand brush and a bucket of water - get all the plaster off. 2) if you have a lot of firescale (the dark gray in the picture), pickle it -> soak it in sodium bisulfate (pH down from the pool store) for a couple hours. If you
  20. So Emilliano had this blade he wasn't sure what to do with, and i had this set of wax fittings I'd been carving for a while as a side project, and Ashoken was 2 weeks away... The fittings started out as an attempt to reproduce these Z type fittings: For those of you who have Fedir Androshchuk's book Viking Swords, this is sword Dr12. Roughing in the parts: and the basic shapes finished: That was a crap load of work and I was getting ideas beyond reproducing the original, so at this point I made silicone rubber molds of the parts so I could take them in different
  21. Very nice! The sheath work is great, in addition to the sexy blades
  22. Beautiful seax, and congrats on a well earned beard ignition!
  • Create New...