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J Broddrick

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About J Broddrick

  • Birthday 07/06/1980

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    North County San Diego, CA, USA

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  1. Yes it would still change. The crystal structure change happens no matter what at about the same temperature for a given alloy. What is useful is this temp is approximately the critical temp. This means you can use the shadows to help lock in the temperature for quenching. Before I had a thermocouple I'd use the shadows to help me heat treat. For the batch of 1095 I had I would shoot for 3 seconds between removing the blade from the forge and the beginning of recalcalescence as my target quench temp. It gave decent results. You can also use it for normalization. Cycle 1 10 seco
  2. If there is a possibility you overheated the blade then a quick normalization cycle might be a good thing. Did the blade harden at all? How did you check for the hamon?
  3. Hi Alex, to my eye it's still a little "boxy" but if you are happy then run with it! where is the 1095 from? Since you did stock removal you might need to thermal cycle the blade a few times before quenching. If the steel was spheroidized annealed it won't want to harden unless you soak it at a reasonably high temp to free up the carbon. I had this problem in the past. Last suggestion, watch the clay thickness at the machi. It's the thickest part and the nakago holds a lot of heat. It's really easy, especially in oil, for the hamon to run off the edge of the blade before the mac
  4. My experience is also from an old batch but Admirals 1095 did have some serious alloy banding. Made for interesting hamons. I will say, the batch of 1095 I got from Admirals back in the day is the most robust water quenching steel I have ever used. I could over heat it and it would survive. Was great to learn on. Their 1070/1080 has enough manganese in it that a quarter inch section quenched in water will crack.
  5. I spent my first few years forging and heat treating small blades in a two brick forge served with that bernzomatic torch. Just get an adapter that allows you to connect it to a 20lb tank and you will be good! My two brick forge wrapped with 0.5" of ceramic blanket and satanite gets up to ~1900 F with that little torch. More than enough to get started. Even now I use it when I make tools. It is very fuel efficient. Jared
  6. Looking at actual examples is the best way to get an idea of what is "proper." Here is a good site: http://www.seiyudo.com/tanto.htm The thickness at the moto kasane is what you are looking for. 0.5 to 0.65 cm is between 3/16 and a quarter inch which seems to be standard. Pierre Nadeau's site has a section on studying blade shape: http://www.soulsmithing.com/index.php/2011/01/kata-making-a-sword-pattern/ This excercise is very valuable. Pick a reference blade, make a kata that matches it, then forge your steel to match. After that maybe make the same blade with hamon'y ste
  7. Looking at the geometry of the yokote, this image may be useful. It's from the Bizen Osafune sword museum in Japan.
  8. Good info here. The only thing I'll add is I have found the amount of clay required is dramatically different for a water quench vs. an oil quench.
  9. Little by little... Having the hamon pop out at 100 grit is motivating.
  10. On that topic, how much slower is a manual press compared to the compressor driven flavor? 5ish crushes per heat down to 3 or is it more like down to 1?
  11. I get that with vinegar some times of the reaction is too slow and bubbles form on the blade. Heating vinegar helps but I'm hesitant to suggest that with ferric chloride. I've heard people put a drop of dish soap in some etches to decrease bubbles but I've never worked with FeCl.
  12. Seems like an awful lot of money for a manual press.
  13. Roughed out the bohi on this katana. Now it's a few weeks of hitting it with stones to clean it up.
  14. A few years back I spent a day at a swordsmith's place in Odawara Japan making a kogatana. We quenched them spine down also. It seems to be a common approach when quenching thin blades with clay.
  15. Good luck! Perhaps some unsolicited advice, but, I always find yaki ire to be stressful. At any point things are not going perfect (temp, fire, etc), stop, let it cool to black and start again. Every failed water quench I've done I can point to one moment where I tried to power through some hiccup. It would have been best to stop, normalize if needed and try again. As for sori, at least with mono steel, I've found interrupted quench with 3 sec in water is negligible sori, 4-5 seconds medium and anything longer than 6 seconds is max. Looking forward to hearing how it goes. Jare
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