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Mike Fegan

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    Alameda, CA
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  1. George and Wayne...thank you both very much for the information...after Wayne's post, now im not sure it is worth the cost and trouble to run a seperate line if the diff is going to be that small...let me get my mind organized and wrapped around all of this and see what i have to start with... George, i may be sending you a pm with some pics if that would help... again, thank you guys very much for all the info and help.
  2. As always...thank you Alan for your input...dont suppose you know about things like running a dedicated 230vac line do you? i guess i will need to take the face off the fuse box to see what is going on in there before anything else...this is an old house built right around 1900...so who knows...it has obviously been updated since then...ill find out what im starting with, and if anyone who has electrical knowledge cares to guide me, or atleast tell me what i am up against as far as cost and all that, that would be very awesome... A WARNING TO PEOPLE WANTING TO GET INTO KNIFEMAKING/SMITHING: this all started out as a trip to home depot for some crappy files...after it gets into your blood and you are hooked, you will find yourself on an internet forum asking people questions about motors, vfd's, and how to run a dedicated power line...so beware...there is no turning back once you have stepped onto this yellow brick road.
  3. sine we are on the subject of motors and power and all that...looking at my breaker box, it seems as if i only have 120/240 volt...would it be worth looking into running a separate 230 volt line?
  4. thanks George...so, the box looks easy (and inexpensive enough)...i think ill contact the website and see if they offer the package (vfd + 3ph motor) in a 1.5 hp option...that is, unless someone else knows of a place offering something comparable for a btter price, but so far that was the best deal i have been able to locate...
  5. thats a nice grinder Sam...what is that filter you are using?
  6. thanks everyone for the replies... George...when you get a chance (no hurry) if you feel like posting a picture of your enclosure, that would be appreciated...
  7. its been awhile since i posted...hope everyone has been well (and hopefully busy) ok...so, i am in the first stages of building a grinder and came across this link http://www.dealerselectric.com/ it looks like they have package deals for motor and teco vfd...could anyone who knows motors take a look and let me know their opinion on the motor and vfd (teco)...and weather this would be a route worth considering...the price seems very good to me...almost too good. thanks in advance. -mike
  8. that is a darn fine idea...if it were me i woud still make the fit a bit snug so that you have friction on ur side as a bit of a backup measure...
  9. i have done this with JB weld...to be honest, i didnt like the results, so i didnt continue experimening with it...i felt like it weakened the epoxy, and didnt really do enough aesthetically to warrant any further use...the colors are almost impossible to match no matter what you are using, and just comes out kinda blah... im not sure exactly what look you are going for, but if you dont need ssomething "metalic" then i would suggest using die or ink to alter the color of the expoxy...or maybe using it to get the epoxy one color, and then adding the powdered metal to that for contrast...like die the epoxy black, and then mix in some nickel to get contrasting specks...even then, i wouldnt hope for too terrbly much...just my opinion.
  10. the reason i had mentioned wood was mostly in regards to a frictoin fit...in order to get a nice fit you would need something that machines well...i couldnt imagine trying to get te right fit on something brittle...the other reason is because idealy for a friction fit you need a somewhat soft wood so that it can compress a bit...a newly made saya has a very snug fit...too snug actually, until it is broken in a bit...if the fit was made just right at the time of making, it wouldnt be too long before it was actually too loose... again, keep in mind this is all from a japanese perspective on doing things, and in this case might not be the best way...it would be nice to be able to see the blade you are talking about, but i think Dillon might be onto something.
  11. also, i would imagine when a clayed blade has some of the clay pop off or fall off and certain smaller areas stayed on, the outcome would be considered "hitatsura"...
  12. yeah, i dnt think all parts fully harden...so you get some pretty patterning...thats just the way they chose to describe that type of heat treat probably because the full surface of the steel is exposed when quenched as oposed to a clayed blade.
  13. i guess i should add that some smiths do use clay to get the same look, but it is clayed really randomly with bare spots of steel and such...
  14. thats called hitatsura (full hardened)...and from my understanding isnt considered a "hamon" because there isnt technically a "hamon"...it can still produce very pretty ptterns, especially on tamhagane, but there is no transition line, nd therefre, no "hamon"...its basically just a bunch of activity from the steel cooling faster or slower in certain spots and from being slightly hotter or cooler in certain spots...
  15. i have been silently watching you on this dao project for awhile...when i saw "finally" and then your name, i think there was a moment i was actually relieved for you...lol...great job man! and might i say...i commend you for sticking with it and not giving up...from what i can see in the pictures...your effort was well worth it...great job again!
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