Jump to content

matt souza

Members
  • Content Count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Volcano, CA
  1. Thanks Much - You can see that there's not much to it - Tho i'd austenize a bit hotter & maybe quench a little cooler with the 6150 i've got left - this one was a kinda soft The warm quench does give a minute or two for straightening -
  2. Mr. Deavers, Excellent use of 28 hours, very impressive. I did not realize i had posted in the middle of your project, which is definitely on the opposite end of the effort spectrum from mine - Keep it up & Thanks for looking, Matt
  3. From 3" x .375" 6150 flat. Ground to shape. Guard hot twisted around blade & normalized the whole thing. Clayed back, austenized @1550, quenched in 400F soybean oil. Finished on a Scotchbrite medium belt & Paracord wrapped. Started like this: Scabbard is aluminum from an old cheapie, modded with fiberglass wrap - no frills here Pretty quick & simple, as swords go & Thanks
  4. some of the high temp-salt composition/temps from MIL-S-10699A - i hope i am not breaching copyright, etc. and please read the actual document before you trust my typing. Converted to degrees Fahrenheit. CLASS 3 1150-1700F 45-55% KCl 45-55%Na2CO3 melts 1040-1090F CLASS 4 1100-1650F 15-25% NaCl 30-32% KCl 50-60% BaCl2 melts 1040-1070F CLASS 4A 1030-1400F 10-15% NaCl 25-30% KCl 40-45% BaCl2 15-20% CaCl2 melts 925-975F CLASS 5 1300-1650F 40-60% NaCl 40-60% KCl melts 1200-1250F CLASS 6 1650-2000F 5-15% KCl 85-95% BaCl2 melts 1400-1550F CLASS 8 1650-2350F 3-7% NaCl 93-97% BaCl2 melts 1525-1575F note* CaCl2 is an ice-melter salt, NaCl & KCl are common water softeners for wells/pools etc, and BaCl2 is sold thru fireworks suppliers. i think. low temp salts are also in the doc - i am leaving them out for now due to their volatile nature and my questionable proof reading - - matt
  5. i see that you guys talked about this back in Jan - but i couldn't access the link to MIL-S-10699B back then and didn't realize it's importance. Thank you for repeating, etc. -somehow i had mentally programmed that barium salts would depress the melting point - glad i was incorrect - spec sheets are good (for me ) -matt I am editing to post a few of the high temp compositions & temperatures from the MIL -S document - Please read IT and double check before you trust my typing. converted to degrees Farenheit. CLASS 3 1150-1700F 45-55% KCl 45-55% Na2CO3 melts 1040-1090F CLASS 4 1100-1650F 15-25% NaCl 30-32% KCl 50-60% BaCl2 melts 1040-1070F CLASS 4A 1030-1400F 10-15% NaCl 25-30% KCl 40-45% BaCl2 15-20% CaCl2 melts 925-975F CLASS 5 1300-1650F 40-60% NaCl 40-60% KCl melts 1200-1250F CLASS 6 1650-2000F 5-15% KCl 85-95% BaCl2 melts 1400-1550F CLASS 8 1650-2350F 3-7% NaCl 93-97% BaCl2 melts 1525-1575F low temp salts, CLASS 1-2 are in the doc - i am leaving them out
  6. I found MIL-S -10699B for free at asssistdocs.com. - 22 pages - i will read - but if you are still watching, Doug, i am going to second Howard's question for you about the salts temp range. - My salts are CaCl2/NaCl and a separate BaCl2. i may have to spice up the recipe for either to raise the hi-limit? i'd like one pot to hit 1725F to austenize S7 - asking before i try to go that high --- hope i got the formulae correct - matt
  7. Thank You, the salts are awesome - being up close and personal with them running is quite an experience - but still the realm of "i don't even know what i don't know" etc. will go for it carefully.
  8. in setting up a 2nd tall high-temp salt bath for preheating and annealing etc. i have a question about the compatibility of the different salts i have on-hand. Does anyone know if a blade can go from Barium salts to NaCl/CaCL or vice-versa, as drag-out salt transfer goes? Just in case there is some extreme danger in doing so that is well known, but that i have missed. it would not be the first time. thanks, matt
  9. i made a "no-weld-grinder" (except i welded the frame) designed by Tracy Mickley at www.usaknifemaker.com. i started w/ 4x36" and then 6x48" and they are good but once i had the 2x72" going i couldn't believe what i had been missing. it can cost a few hundred $$$ (and up) to make - but you can buy the parts in stages - was really easy and opens up a whole new level for grinding. WAY. just something to think about even if you can only get a lo-power sander for now.
  10. sorry -duplicate post - if anyone knows how to delete, please do and PS - i added inner-tube over the non-drive wheel on my cheap belt-sanders, allowing for more pressure when grinding without slipping the belt, and the occasional contact grind PPS - take the following makers' posts to heart - as you are young and starting out : save and get THE VERY BEST TOOLS YOU CAN AFFORD. The $$$ are tough sometimes but good equipment saves and produces so much in ways that are hard to imagine at first. -matt
  11. Hi - another Salt Bath question Q- Anyone know how hot the high temp salts can (or should(n't)) get? i have 50/50 NaCl/CaCl and i've only gone to like 1578F. i know the forge can go hotter - but i read that the "operating limit" of the salts is about 1600F. was considering S7, austenizes at 1725F, assuming off-limits for this type of bath? PS - Any knowledge of salt compatibility? in this case a blade going from BaCl2 into NaCl/CaCl2 (or vice-versa) for preheat or anneal etc. -maybe this is a heat-treat question - but it's kinda more about the salts than steel PPS - These questions answered and more in Heat Treating Section: "high temp salt compatibility"
  12. oops -maybe i should have spelled it B+ULFRT+H...

    that's why YOU are the master engraver

  13. Great to see you on NOVA - very straight forward and informative; the crucible steel making, especially. You guys made it look as if the old processes had never faded. +ULFBERH+T !

  14. nice & at a rapid pace. it's a feat to make knives that the Smith can afford
  15. This is matt- i got the salt pot going - filled it a little at a time, and up to 1600F + as suggested Mr. Loose - i skipped the pre-heat w/minimal spatter (this time?) but a TON of foul fumes - and i've breathed some pretty foul stuff it's cooled for the night, next i'll see how to knock out the tapered rod - no pneumatic hammer here as yet, except for my huffing/puffing. Noticed how quiet the whole thing runs, and how the blades come up to heat so fast. They appeared uniform in color in person, to my eye - more so than in the photo thanks for sharing the knowledge PS - my tongs worked but the jaws get red hot (of course) and deform/spread just a little. corrected with an occasional tap - will see how they hold up. (Not so well) i grabbed the tangs about halfway - i was a little worried that if i just grabbed the ends (to submerge the whole tang) that i might drop the blade in the tank. i will work up to it.
×
×
  • Create New...