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Mick Maxen

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Mick Maxen last won the day on August 12

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  1. Alan, I have run out of handles now and will need some more. James, the name is an inlay all the way through but has not been made by the canister/powder method. Just flat pieces of steel that we all use.
  2. Cheers Alan. A different way of putting a makers mark in the work. The curly maple handle is one you gave me at Owen's a few years back.
  3. A recent piece of work. A pattern welded tomahawk with a 5 bar construction with each bar having 14 layers. The cutting edge is approx 500 layers. The edge is 2 1/4" and the head is 6" long.
  4. A few work in progress photos of the pattern welding. The first is a lay up of how the bars will match, Now welded up with the edge as well, This is a polished and etched spare piece with a view of the cross section through the blade,
  5. Thanks for all the kind words about this piece. Alan, a teleport machine to catch up and have a few beers would be a very fine idea. Rob has sent me a few work in progress photos of the hilt fittings and wax carving,
  6. This is a collaboration between Rob Miller of Castle Keep Swords on the Isle of Skye and myself. This is the 2nd one of these blades I have made for him. It has a 7 bar core of 14 layers in each bar and a 900 + layered edge. I supplied the sword blade as a forged to shape blank about 5 - 6mm thick. Rob did all the grinding, hilt work, fittings, scabbard and leather work to an exceptional standard.
  7. Similar to these pieces,
  8. Nice work James. A more irregular pattern will be achieved by forging your initial billet, the 1st photo you show, so that you have a combination of wide and narrow pieces. Always keep the height the same but try forging them so one bar is say 12mm wide and the other 6 or 8mm wide. This pushes the wave pattern higher up the bar in the narrow section and then stack them in alternating thin and thick sections.
  9. Hello Alan, very well Thank you although I am another year older today. The name bar is from the stock I made years ago. I probably have about 20" of the stuff left. Matt, there are no twists in the ring other than the side pieces that were made with 28 layers and twisted. Think of the ring being just a square about 25mm by 11mm before it was ground to a ring. Mick.
  10. Both rings are about 21mm diameter,
  11. Michael, it sounds like the layers in question were never welded up if they keep coming apart. Experience has taught me that you usually cannot get flux into these areas to succesfully weld them up again as there is usually some crud in there from the failed weld. If its a blister then it can be ground out. I was teaching pattern welding to someone at the weekend and I had a billet seem to just jump apart about 5 layers in on a 14 layer billet. No real idea why so I just chucked it away and started a fresh and thats with 20 odd years pattern welding experience. Mick.
  12. Jan, I built a roller a few years ago using the Mc Donald plans as a guide and adapted the design to suit the steel I had available. I don't have a copy of the plans any more but I seem to remember that using his design for the foot lever, ie the way its set up and the length of the lever, I and sure he mentions that there is a 60 / 1 advantage. Another thing he mentions regarding the lever is to set it up so that when its pushed all the way to the floor the forces are directly pushing up through the bar to the bottom roller, otherwise you are using all your strength to hold the bar down. I use mine by taking small bites at a time, probably in the region of 1mm. As Owen mentions flex in the frame which is not a bad thing or you start to break welds or bolts, depending on design. I built mine for drawing out sword blades and with a bit of practice you can taper these as well. One thing that did surprise me was that I always shot blast my steel clean before grinding and the scale from putting a bar through the roller is much harder to remove than from the power hammer and thicker. Here is a link to some photos and spec's, http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?174695-Rolling-mill Mick.
  13. I don't have any photos of the scabbard fittings but here is another blade photo, In case you missed it, there is a link in my first post to Rob's site with more photos of the blade including a cross section and a lay out of the centre bars Mick.
  14. Thanks for all the kind words about this piece, I've passed them onto Rob as well The grip is typical of the era and is just under 3 1/2", the blade is 31 1/2". Overall the length is 38" Mick.
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