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  1. Unless you are going for a Japanese style, it might look more refined if you make the handle line even with the knife's spine and curve the area where a forefinger would rest so it flows into the line of the blade.
  2. Boil the blade in apple cider vinegar. Assuming a carbon steel blade.
  3. Sweet folder! I have made a friction folder, the slip joint is on my to do list
  4. These two, both with birch bark, antler and brass are my best this year. The smaller one is my first pattern welded steel, 15N20 and 1084. The other is just forged 1084.
  5. A low layer feather pattern sgian dubh.
  6. When I began forging I built a Lively style forge and used charcoal. On the positive side it works very well. On the negative side, it takes a lot of charcoal! When making charcoal one tip is to start with wood the same size. I just used my hammer to break big chunks. I don’t know of a traditional knife used for the task. I switched to propane so I could spend more time hammering steel and less time managing the fire. That said, I am building a coal forge to use for larger non-knife forging.
  7. I have tried this and the birch I have did not glue together as well as I wanted. Has anyone ever tried boiling such a birch stack? As for how to do this, yes, use a long set epoxy, and I punch the holes and test stack them on the tang, take them off and stage them so they are ready to go back on. You could also do the stack in segments.
  8. I use a woodworking vice. I drilled a slot in one jaw for the tang. This allows me to get the right angle as needed for glue up.
  9. I hesitate to post my work here as I feel it is far below the level of quality typically displayed. But I am improving with practice. Here are my two latest. Both have birch bark and deer antler handles. The larger one is a “hunting” knife for deer, the smaller one is my take on a bird and trout knife and is my first attempt at forge welding.
  10. Looks good to me. When you forge the bevels the tip will rise. You will end up with a slight drop point with that shape (varies with how thick it is now and how thin you forge the bevels).
  11. The description was as amazing as the work.
  12. I tried drawing what I was thinking in terms of a subtle curve in the rear of the handle were you have the flat. I think I like the flat better! I don't think that a curve would really enhance control, I thought it would balance the handle better but the flat plays against the straight profile of the blade very nicely. I agree that this design is reminiscent of the Canadian knife and the flat adds to that connection. I also agree that this design doesn't need a lot of belly. Have you thought about a full height grind on this? That would give you the distal taper and give you a very clean look
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