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  1. A low layer feather pattern sgian dubh.
  2. When I began forging I built a Lively style forge and used charcoal. On the positive side it works very well. On the negative side, it takes a lot of charcoal! When making charcoal one tip is to start with wood the same size. I just used my hammer to break big chunks. I don’t know of a traditional knife used for the task. I switched to propane so I could spend more time hammering steel and less time managing the fire. That said, I am building a coal forge to use for larger non-knife forging.
  3. I have tried this and the birch I have did not glue together as well as I wanted. Has anyone ever tried boiling such a birch stack? As for how to do this, yes, use a long set epoxy, and I punch the holes and test stack them on the tang, take them off and stage them so they are ready to go back on. You could also do the stack in segments.
  4. I use a woodworking vice. I drilled a slot in one jaw for the tang. This allows me to get the right angle as needed for glue up.
  5. I hesitate to post my work here as I feel it is far below the level of quality typically displayed. But I am improving with practice. Here are my two latest. Both have birch bark and deer antler handles. The larger one is a “hunting” knife for deer, the smaller one is my take on a bird and trout knife and is my first attempt at forge welding.
  6. Looks good to me. When you forge the bevels the tip will rise. You will end up with a slight drop point with that shape (varies with how thick it is now and how thin you forge the bevels).
  7. The description was as amazing as the work.
  8. I tried drawing what I was thinking in terms of a subtle curve in the rear of the handle were you have the flat. I think I like the flat better! I don't think that a curve would really enhance control, I thought it would balance the handle better but the flat plays against the straight profile of the blade very nicely. I agree that this design is reminiscent of the Canadian knife and the flat adds to that connection. I also agree that this design doesn't need a lot of belly. Have you thought about a full height grind on this? That would give you the distal taper and give you a very clean look
  9. I like the concept. I would go full tang. I would also add a curve To the belly of the back end of the handle.
  10. Evaporust is a product I have used to remove rust. It does a good job. However that poor knife looks pitted. Is it thick enough to grind the rust out and refinish? My sympathies!
  11. Tell me more about the wood please? Source, how did it work, how hard is it, stabilized, etc.
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