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Jim Kehler

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    Steinbach, Manitoba, Canada

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  1. As far as I was taught; it's either hardened or not, what quench medium you use (oil, air ,water, brine, caustic soda) depends on hardenability .
  2. If you haven't already, you should check out Mark Krause. He has a website I think it is hammerwhisperer. He wrote a booklet on a self contained that he built.
  3. Depending on what grade of stainless it is it might work harden. At the railroad we used 304 stainless as wear plates.
  4. That would be Roger, nowadays his beard is usually dyed some strange colour.
  5. Each of my nephews have recieved a knife for their 13th birthday, this is the latest. He has some scandinavian blood so I used that as a design influence. 1080ish steel, copper, deer antler, moosehide and cherry wood. His nickname is Moose so I wanted to use moose antler but couldn't find any close by so I put in a moose leather spacer .
  6. If you are going to use the saw in a permanently upright position, I would suggest you check the rectangular box that contains the worm gear and make sure there is enough lube.(ask me how I know this)
  7. I will also vote for reduced flow from the tank, kind of like those low flow shower heads that you have to take a drill to the orifice if you want to get wet.
  8. When I was at the railroad we would temper springs (5160 or 1095) to 42 - 44 HRC plus or minus a bit. 36 would be IMHO too soft.
  9. If you heat up your pieces in your forge they will be black.
  10. the Northern Minnesota Metalsmiths have a hammer in their shop at Itasca which is I think a 33 Anyang.
  11. Yes, the holding hand often has a harder job than the hitting hand. Tong rings can help. I have some old chain links of various sizes that I use to slide over the reins to keep the tongs tight on the forging.
  12. Nice looking hammer, I like to grind a radius on the dies to avoid cold shuts when drawing down stock. A 3/8" radius should be fine for a 100 lb. hammer.
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