• Announcements

    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Ben Noffsinger

Members
  • Content count

    226
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

About Ben Noffsinger

  • Birthday 01/03/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Clifton Forge Virginia
  • Interests
    Kitchen knives, early European happenings, Wood carving, fermentation, primitive knowledge.
  1. Title says it all. Didn't know if anyone on here had one they want to sell or any leads on where to get one. I messaged "Nathan the Machinist" whose platens I have seen, but he seems to be taking a hiatus from making them. Need it to hollow out the back of my Japanese style kitchen knives.
  2. beautiful knife. My only constructive thoughts are, beware of shortening the handle too far and pushing the balance of the knife further up into the blade the closer to the junction of handle and blade you are the easier it will be to use the knife in the kitchen. Also I would look at the edge of the copper faceplate that sits above the spine. That sharp angle will begin to wear into the heel of your hand after long use in a pinch grip. Bringing that down flush with the spine (or atleast a smooth radious) will provide a smoother transfer from handle to blade, and feel much more comfortable three to four hours in. Great wood grain on that handle!
  3. I've used a few tie rods for small axes, the ones I played with did not harden in an oil quench, they must have been the 1045 kind.
  4. thanks for the information! The 20a switch is good to know, I wasn't sure what I was going to do for a switch.
  5. that helps quite a bit, thank you. What about the ground? is there a wire that comes out of the power cord that I attach to the small green screw inside the wiring box on the motor?
  6. It's been a while since I posted, but I just purchased a KMG grinder that came with a 2hp Leeson electric motor. I have spent all morning looking up how to install a power cord and get this thing wired up, but I am more confused now then I was when I started. This is the only diagram that came with the motor. I am completely unfamiliar with this type of stuff and was wondering if anyone knew of a good resource or had any insight into what type of 220 plug I need and how to install the cord. Any thoughts?
  7. I switched from JB Weld to G-flex marine epoxy, after someone else recommended it on a previous thread. I have been very happy with the G-flex. It flows much easier into hidden tang knives and the little bit of translucence helps blend any gaps, but a tight fit is the only way to avoid that completely.
  8. nice one, love that sheath.
  9. interesting thread, not much to add but thought I'd throw this out there. Are you drying your blade after cooling it? I think the trizacts have a water soluble resin and will crap out quickly if used on a wet blade.
  10. Thanks gents! The wood is black walnut.
  11. Haven't posted anything in a while, just thought i'd share one of my latest. 8" chef knife, 52100 with walnut and copper.
  12. Awesome, Polaris tribute is great. I like the handle "fullers" as well, great looking knife!
  13. Very cool!
  14. I love the pattern in that wood, great knife as always.
  15. "One particular detail that concerns me is that on most of the forges I look at, the burner fits into a socket that is welded onto the tank. I'm not sure how to get around that, or what else I might do to hold the burner in place " I had the same issue when I built my forge, I used a pipe flange and a small segment of black pipe from lowes. I packed the underside of the flange with kaowool, drilled holes through the forge where the bolt holes in the flange were and bolted that sucker down. After lining the inside of the forge and thus covering the nuts and bolt ends I have had no issues. Thought I'd throw that in with the other great comments. Can't wait to get a welder myself!