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Rob Toneguzzo

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Rob Toneguzzo last won the day on August 13 2021

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About Rob Toneguzzo

  • Birthday 06/24/1970

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  • Location
    Northern Territory Australia
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Bowhunting, Dogs, Fishing, Art,Wildlife Photography, Family

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  1. Well, like with so many of my projects this one has been patiently maturing and rusting. I progressed the guard a bit but have many file strokes to go. This was more difficult than I had planned.
  2. That’s a really neat little knife Josh and I really like your carving. It looks authentic.
  3. I tried a link from my Twitter. Works!!! first time I’ve done that
  4. Sorry Garry, not working. Not sure how to upload a video it seems. Was nothing too important. Just edge and heat treat testing
  5. Ready for work. Nothing fancy but fit for purpose and a fun rewarding useful project to undertake.
  6. Image 9,10,11,12 I then spread the blade out and forge to shape being careful to keep the eye and things trued up as I go. This is where you can make the shape of axe you like Then a clean up and profile with the good old flap disk and ready for heat treat. For my heat treat of this hatchet head - I normalise 3 x times and then quench in pre heated canola oil. I test for hardness with the file. I then temper this by heating the eye with my propane torch until the eye turns blue and then slowly heat further down the blade until the colours run and the edge just turns straw and then quench in water...thats it. This gives me blue through the eye and middle with the edge straw which I find makes for a very tough and sturdy little axe. I then do my final shaping and rough sharpening. I use my belt grinder but you can use the flap disk. I then test it - See Clip 1 I am sorry I did not take pictures of fitting the handle but it is fairly straight forward and there are heaps of tutorials on you tube re this. I have just finished it and am oiling up the handle so I will post up finished pics soon. I hope this may be of help to others and also get Josh to get off his butt and make us an axe..that is in his spare time when he is not making those beautiful knives! P.s Sorry I uploaded clip twice... IMG_7350.MOV IMG_7350.MOV
  7. HAHAH Josh of course it will work for you as I am also one of those ones who has tried and failed and failed and tried but kept trying till I started getting more successes than fails.
  8. Image 4 To make things just a bit easier I clamp the insert/bit of HC in place on one end of the rasp and tack it in place. I also sprinkle some borax between the plate and rasp before I weld it in place . It is not needed but it does not hurt and I get good welds. I do this because when I heat the rasp and bend it in place I don't have to worry about the HC bit falling out or moving. (This is not needed though and I have done this many times without the welding of the bit.) Images 5 To start with, I heat the rasp and then fold it around the makeshift drift I made (pictured in Image 1) I have a bit of square stock welded to the bottom of my drift as I sit it in the hardy hole on the anvil while I bend the rasp. Once I have the rasp bent around the drift I take it to the vice while still hot and clamp the two sides of the blade tightly together. leaving the drift in while I do this gets it clamped down nice and tight, forms the eye and gets things ready to weld. I then give the blade a good Boraxing and put it it back into the forge. Images 6,7,8 I then turn up my forge full and adjust to yellow flames coming out the mouth and wait till the metal looks the colour of the forge insides and then flip the axe over. When I think it is hot enough I get a bit of fence wire and heat it till it's glowing and then lightly touch the axe head. If it is slightly tacky and sticks a bit when I touch the axe head I know it is hot enough to weld. I let it soak for a bit longer and then set the welds. Light taps at first working from the eye to the edge then brush off borax a bit and repeat for a couple of times and then for a couple more where I hit much harder and set the welds. Bring each heat up to welding temp when doing this. I then nip the end off, cool it and check my welds before starting to forge out the axe blade. More to come....
  9. Hello All, This thread is aimed at members who are interested in making their first folded axe but have been putting off giving it a go. This is a quick no fuss but very functional hatchet, small axe, tomahawk etc which does not require a lot of fancy equipment or difficult techniques to master. For anyone else who wishes to go into much more depth the below 2 tutorials from Gerald and Alan are in my opinion as good as it gets and have been invaluable reference for my own development. http://www.geraldboggs.com/Axe_article.pdf and Ingredients - 1 x farriers rasp or other similar sized strip of steel (you can use mild steel if you like as the insert or bit will be HC steel) 1 x piece of HC steel for the insert. I used a slice off an old circular logging saw but you can also use a piece of another rasp in the same way. 1 x handle. I prefer to cut my own but for this job I bought a quality hardwood hatchet handle from the hardware store. Borax Equipment - Forge - coal or gas capable of getting hot enough to forge weld. I will get into how I test this later. Angle grinder with flap and cutting disks Welder (handy but not needed) Make an axe drift out of a bit of mild steel as close as you can get to the shape of the handle ( again handy but not needed) I roughly shaped mine with a flap disk which took about 15 mins. There will be tutorials on how to make a proper one and it will be time well spent and save time in the future. Now...This is by no means the only or best way to do this but it works well for me. 1st image Clean all rust off the rasp (or other steel) with a flap disk so that it is shiny and then hit it with a wire brush. File down the teeth a bit but you don't need to file them all off. I use the finer side of the of the rasp for the inside which will be welded. You can see my dodgy drift here...see....nothing fancy 2nd image I cut a strap from my boat tie down to use as a template and wrapped it around the wood handle and marked the space I need for the eye. I then worked out how much i needed for the blade and marked that too. This will depend on what type of axe blade you want but for this I just marked out equal thirds. I then cut my rasp to shape. 3rd Image I cut the bit/insert of HC steel to suit. I also cleaned this up with a flap disk and wire brush but did not go too crazytown on it. More to come......
  10. Sorry Larry for not replying sooner. I rarely make anything to sell mate but I am putting up a tutorial for a quick and easy axe you should give a go. It handled this dry stump no worries
  11. Congratulations Josh, wonderful work and great photo.
  12. Thanks fellas, I have a couple of unfinished surface rusting projects I need to get back to. Jerrod, I did make this one as big as I could fit in my forge. Ended up tipping it sideways to fit in.
  13. Thanks guys, Hi Doug, I do grind the teeth off the inside.
  14. Hi Guys, I have not been forging for a bit as I have been concentrating on my Wildlife Photography but I needed an axe for camp fires so I forged this up yesterday and handled it today. Farriers Rasp and saw bit. Hope you guys are all safe. Rob
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