Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by timgunn

  1. Auber seem to be highly regarded Stateside. They do not have a UK presence, so I have not used them myself. AutomationDirect and Omega are both very good and have knowledgeable support staff at the end of the phone (I'm a Luddite, but they are probably great online too). IME they are also remarkably patient. If you are going to talk to them, make sure you have all your settings noted down and try to appreciate that, whilst they do know their equipment, they do not know the specific process you are trying to control: it is up to you to tell them exactly what the controller needs to
  2. 2”x4” felt too small for a face. With hindsight, I should have left it. I welded on a couple of offcuts from the tapered end to give about a 4” x 5” face, but welding it ruined the original tine HT. It seems really soft and the plan is to hard-face it as soon as I can source some suitable rods. I made a cutlers stiddy from another short piece of the tine and it seems to be usefully hard with the original HT. I think a tine the size of yours would make a pretty good post anvil if you don’t overheat it when cutting it.
  3. That's a decent size. Lots of folk I know have struggled with cutting forklift tines. I expected to struggle too, but used a 14" carbide-toothed portable cutoff saw (an Evolution Raptor) on my 2" x 4" tine and was absolutely stunned at how quick, clean and cool the cut was.
  4. The best advice I can give on PID controllers: Before you even consider buying one, DOWNLOAD and READ the MANUAL. If you cannot find it to download, do not buy the controller. If you cannot understand (at least most of) the manual, do not buy the controller. Good manuals are expensive things to do well. If you are not already familiar with process controllers, trying to set one up without a good manual will give you migraine. If/when you run into difficulties, it is nice to be able to ask for help on this, or another, forum. You will probably want help from someone who is
  5. It looks more like Kaowool board in the photo than IFB. Try shaving a thin slice off it with a sharp knife. You'll either get something that crumbles to dust (IFB), or you'll get something that looks like kaowool fibers (kaowool board). Either way you'll know. And you'll have a blunt knife.
  6. If you can bore for bushings, that is almost certainly the cheapest, easiest way to do things. They are available in several materials and different wall thicknesses for much less than the cost of bronze bearing stock. https://www.grainger.com/category/sleeve-bearings/sleeve-and-clip-bearings/bearings/power-transmission/ecatalog/N-171c#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fsleeve-bearings%2Fsleeve-and-clip-bearings%2Fbearings%2Fpower-transmission%2Fecatalog%2FN-171cZ1z0o05eZ1z0o42g Using sleeve-bearing pillow blocks should be ok, but I'd be more inclined to use Cast Iron housings, rather than pressed st
  7. Not nearly enough information. The gas jet size is dependent on a huge range of factors, most of which will be highly specific to your burner. I assume the burner is Naturally Aspirated, not blown. The high-speed gas emerging from the jet is what causes the low pressure at the burner throat and draws the air in. Going smaller on the gas jet will lean off the mixture (make it less reducing/more Oxidizing). Going bigger will richen the mixture (make it more reducing/less Oxidizing). Different tasks are best undertaken with different air:fuel ratios. The maximum flame temperature
  8. I'm British, so buying American is not a consideration for me. The DF-series burners are as good as any of the DIY burner designs I've seen and very much better than most. I usually use burners based on a commercial Venturi mixer. Out of curiosity, I bought a DFP to play with and was very impressed. The Blacksmithing boys don't seem to rate them particularly highly, but I don't think they need the adjustability that comes with the screwed choke adjustment. The screwed choke gives exceptionally fine control over the flame temperature and forge atmosphere (they are intimately linked).
  9. Assuming it's the SYL2352P controller you have, the wiring looks pretty simple: Terminal 4 to thermocouple + Terminal 5 to thermocouple - Terminal 7 to SSR + Terminal 8 to SSR - Terminals 9 and 10 to AC power In the unlikely event you want to use alarms: Terminal 13 to alarm common supply Terminal 1 to alarm indicator/sounder, etc 1 Terminal 14 to alarm indicator/sounder, etc 2 I am assuming you have not downloaded and printed the 11-page manual for the SYL2352P from the link at the bottom of the SYL23X2P page on Auberins site, and given it to
  10. I'll be interested to see how you get on with this. What seems to be stopping the Venturi burners from reaching temperature? The most common reason for it that I've seen is effectively too big a gas jet for the burner. The second most common is not enough burner for the forge. If you have Dragons Breath and you are not reaching temperature, a (slightly) smaller gas jet is very likely to improve matters.
  11. The correct spelling is "Fluorspar". Also search for "Fluorite" and "Calcium Fluoride". I can find it in "our" sort of quantities as "Calcium Fluoride/ Fluorspar-acid grade" from Mistral Chemicals over here. That big wet patch probably rules it out for you though. Pottery suppliers might carry it, though it looks like it's a major PITA to use in glazes.
  12. The technical term for the fans Owen is describing is "bifurcated" (bif). They are usually "Bifurcated Axial" fans (bifa). It might help you find some details and pricing.
  13. Thermocouple in the forge as Alan says. It works in the forge. A magnet needs to be used out of the forge. Back before IR thermometers became available, there used to be an optical hot-wire pyrometer that used an electrically-heated Platinum wire. The operator held the instrument with the wire between the object to be measured and his eye then adjusted the current in the wire until it became invisible against the background. He then read the temperature of the wire, which would be the same as that of the background object. The thermocouple is used in a similar way. Jonas, what
  14. Thank you Alan. The rich mixture tends to help minimize scaling and I think it probably helps to minimize decarb too: Carbon soot from the incomplete Propane combustion gets deposited on the steel surface. It's difficult to envisage a mechanism that would burn Carbon out of the steel without taking the soot, though it doesn't necessarily mean there isn't one. Over here, O1 is a doddle to get hold of in beginner bladesmith quantities, but most other blade steels are not. Like 52100, O1 does best with a long soak so I wanted to come up with a setup that would let a beginner get decent
  15. Using a muffle pipe tends to reduce the temperature variation. It is a useful method for getting a more even temperature from an existing forge, given that most "normal" forges are not built with Heat-Treating in mind. However, it is also possible to design/build a forge and burner combination to give precise temperature control with minimal temperature variation, specifically for HT. There are a number of HT-dedicated drum forges around, to a design usually credited to Don Fogg and originally intended for HT of swords. These use a single, relatively small, burner to heat a 55-gallo
  16. Jerrod's suggestion looks good. The way I read it, the input resistance is sufficient to draw no more than 10 mA at 10V (so presumably at least 1000 Ohms). The unit Jerrod linked to seems to give a 1-10V output at up to 30 mA. The important thing is that it is a Voltage output. Something which gave a 0-20 mA current output instead (another common control signal) probably would not work. I can't see anything similar available over here, so left to my own devices, I think I'd probably do it using a 10V power supply and a potentiometer. Connect the supply across the ends of th
  17. It should eat the job. The curves look excellent. If I'm reading things correctly, the 116630 has variable-speed capability, taking a 0-10V speed signal, and should be very easy to tune to match the actual duty required. I've never even seen any of the windjammer series in the flesh, though I've used Ametek Rotron Side-channel blowers in the past and found them very good. I used them on Landfill gas systems and the units I used were much bigger than we would typically use for forges/smelting. They were very well-engineered and I'd have no qualms about using Ametek products based on
  18. The nicest one I've seen in use was a side-channel blower at one of Owen Bush's hammerins. I think Owen's was a Nash/Elmo/Reitschle and had about a 1/3 HP motor. I'd guess it was probably a GBH1100. http://www.gd-elmorietschle.de/uploadedfiles/elmo-rietschle/downloads/content_g/datasheets/g-bh1_g-bh9/standard/2bh1100_ie1_en.pdf There are several other manufacturers, since it's pretty old technology. Side-channels tend to be used where the pressure requirement is higher than can easily be supplied by a conventional centrifugal fan. Centrifugal fans need to be large in diamet
  19. Could it be that the motor is wired for star (wye) instead of Delta?
  20. A number 60 drill is .040". MIG tips are sized for the wire diameter they are intended to pass and have sufficient clearance to allow this. Using number drills and small metric drills as Go/NoGo gauges, I have tended to find the hole diameter is about .006" larger than the nominal wire size on the MIG tips I have measured. The hole size for the MIG tip is therefore likely to be about .046": about 15% bigger. That equates to about 32% greater area than the #60 hole. In addition, the MIG tip is likely to have a Discharge Coefficient in the region of 0.8, whereas the Discharge Coe
  21. As Jerrod says, it's basically a free-cutting version of 304, which is about the most common (and least-exciting) stainless steel out there. For machinability, it's streets ahead of 304 or 316, making it great for fittings. Back when I used to play with a little Myford ML7 lathe, it was pretty much the only stainless worth putting in the chuck. I'd keep some of it for stuff that needs machining and try to trade the rest.
  22. It's only 60W according to the nameplate, so is only rated for 1/50th the current of a 3 kW kettle or heater (under a quarter of an Amp vs 13 Amps for the kettle or heater). Current carrying capacity is largely a function of cross-sectional-area, so skinny wires are not going to be a problem. There's a lot of exposed electrical gubbins there. Make sure whatever you build is well Earthed (Grounded) and ensure it's run from an RCD-protected circuit (GFCI?). The RCD won't stop you getting a shock, but it will disconnect the power before it kills you. It's no substitute for common sense: if y
  23. It's a long time since I last used it, but Slo-Zap CA used to be very good for positioning/adjustment time. Not silly money either. I felt that 20 seconds was about what you safely had to get stuff located, perhaps 30 seconds if the planets aligned, Of course, if you got things positioned quickly, it seemed to take a couple of aeons to stick.
  24. What is the shaft size, as this may narrow down your options. 90 frame size suggests metric to me, and probably a 19mm shaft? "Special" rating is also worth checking out.
  • Create New...